Norms Router Cabinet #4: Bit Tray's and Cabinet Door are Done - well almost

This is going to be a nice addition to your shop. Nice recovery on the drawer too. To be honest with you I probably would not have thought to try and break the glue and nail joint. But you obviously were “thinking outside the box” and came up with a nice solution to your problem.

Well done.

-- With God's help all things are possible- even woodworking. Woodworking is not just a hobby, it is an (expletive deleted) expensive hobby.

Scott,

I was reading through blogs at some point and saw that someone used a blow dryer to remove a template that was adhered using spray glue. So a LJ was the source of the inspiration of course…. :)

-- //FC - Round Rock, TX - "Experience is what you get just after you need it"

looks good. Also looks like you’ve been stocking up on some of those woodcraft bits. I can’t believe how quickly you are getting everything put together. Hope you can maintain the pace!

I have a question, how you going to turn this off?

That switch is huge. Even a blind woodworker could find it!

Very nice work.

Lee

-- by Lee A. Jesberger http://www.prowoodworkingtips.com http://www.ezee-feed.com

HokieMojo,

I can’t pass up a good quality $5 bit. Just a sucker that way and I have room for a lot more. :)

-- //FC - Round Rock, TX - "Experience is what you get just after you need it"

Lee,

Thanks! This has been one of those learning projects again. Sort wished I flipped the location of the wrench drawer and the electrics. That way that switch would be on my left. But alas it is not to be :)

If you are having vision problems and are in need, you can get your very own “huge” switch at Grizzly. :)

-- //FC - Round Rock, TX - "Experience is what you get just after you need it"

I built this router table a few years ago and it has really been a good table. However I will give you one piece of advice. If you live in a humid environment you will want to stay away from using MDF to make the fence. It’s ok for the top but I have had issues with the sliding fence. On my table the out feed side had swollen causing a slight lip that would cause the work piece to hang and ultimately left a small snipe in my work piece every time I would try to negotiate around it. I eventually replaced the sliding components with UHMW which made a huge difference. I think I will rebuild the top though and get a little better router plate and use phenolic plywood for the top. In all the table has been a great addition to the shop and the dust extraction has been superb. You will really enjoy it.

Wow, what great ideas! Karson has recently blogged about using phenolic plywood, and I hadn’t even considered using it in this application.

Did you use full pieces of UHMW or did you use the tape?

Thanks!

-- //FC - Round Rock, TX - "Experience is what you get just after you need it"

I used full 3/4” pieces for both the infeed and outfeed slides. When I rebuild the top I plan to use the phenolic plywood for all the other parts except the feather board strip above the fence. That’s just so the thickness is the same as the fence.