Well, cutting veneer has been a challenge for me. No matter what I’ve tried, I haven’t found a way to do it and get a nice fit. I’ve tried using the veneering saw, a knife and even sissors. The sissors worked suprisingly well during some test cuts on burl, but not so well on straighter grained samples. I tried using a board for a straight edge and tried cutting with my miter saw by sandwiching a piece between two pieces of plywood. This worked, o.k., but not good enough. I found that for me, my 12” fast square was the best guide for my veneering saw.
Here is a shot of my cut veneer as I prepare to begin the task of taping with painter’s tape:
I decided to make the chest board out of 1/2” MDF. The process of taping the strips was tedious and a bit nerve racking, especially with the difficulty I had getting the seams to match up. I tried numbering the strips as I cut them, but found that didn’t work too well. This is what my taping job looked like after about 30 minutes:
This is what it looked like after trimming the excess off and taping all of the joints: Oops, I got ahead of myself…this picture shows the taping after reversing every other one:
Here’s a view of the other side…not bad, right?
I would have rathered not have seams in the middle of a couple of the squares, but it is a good learning experience that will teach me how to deal with this in the future. Here is a look at the show side of the checker board: Great looking veneer…thanks again, Karson!
I then applied the three hole tape on the show side of the checker board and this is what it looks like, now:
My next job is to work on the veneer that will border the checker board and make a press that will help me clamp the veneer to the substrate after applying Titebond II. I kind of wanted to do the coating of glue on both and then ironing over it to reactivate the glue, but I will have to do some test pieces of both before trying it on this large project.
-- Jesus is Lord!
10 comments so far
Dorje
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1745 posts in 484 days
posted 450 days ago
Way to go!
-- Dorje (pronounced "door-jay"), Seattle, WA
Karson
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12917 posts in 888 days
posted 450 days ago
Great Job Mark.
I sent you that great looking veneer. I want it back, after you glue it all up of course. LOL
-- Karson Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com
Sawdust2
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848 posts in 575 days
posted 450 days ago
In a previous response I gave a link to a French veneer saw. You might try that over the saw you have.
Then you might want to make three passes on each cut -
The first will score the veneer where you want it cut, the second will follow in that score and increase the depth and the third will separate the piece. With no real pressure on the saw it follows the edge more easily.
Also, make sure that the teeth on the saw are sharp and that you rock the saw from back to front as you make your cut. Sort of an ergonomic move.
It is good that you emphasize the glue side and the show side.
-- No piece is cut too short. It was meant for a smaller project.
Bob Babcock
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1807 posts in 573 days
posted 449 days ago
I’m not even going to begin to start veneering for a while yet. I love following the progress and the process though. Nice job Os! What’s the 3 hole tape for?
-- Bob, Carver Massachusetts, Sawdust Maker http://www.capecodbaychallenge.org
oscorner
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4573 posts in 798 days
posted 449 days ago
Karson, I’ll get it to you, but it is in smaller pieces, now. LOL.
Sawdust2, I am making several lite cuts as you have suggested. My cuts just don’t match up to well. :^(
Bob, from what I read…the three hole tape is the tape you put on the show side before gluing and the purpose for the three holes is that the center hole allows you to see the seam. It is suppose to shrink once it dries, thus pulling the seam tighter. After application of the three hole tape you must remove the painter’s tape before glue down. One instructer said that he will use the painter’s tape on the show side, if he has a veneer that has holes in it to prevent the glue from sqeezing through. Once the glue dries it can be removed easily. The three hole tape needs two to three wettings before it can be removed.
-- Jesus is Lord!
lclashley
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231 posts in 601 days
posted 449 days ago
These sites have some videos on cutting and jointing veneer. (In case you haven’t seen them) Hope this helps.
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/category/podcast/
http://furnitology.blogspot.com/index.html
Is Karson dealing veneer?
Don
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2586 posts in 664 days
posted 449 days ago
Thanks, Mark, a journey is never meaningful unless it provides some challenges. I’m with you on this one, Mate!
-- CanuckDon "I just love small wooden boxes!" http://www.canterburybaptist.org/
MsDebbieP
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11931 posts in 648 days
posted 449 days ago
bravo for being brave enough to take the plunge!
Learning curves: gotta love them. Sometimes, though, you just can’t love them until they are over! ha.
Well done. It looks beautiful You must be very proud of your accomplishment.
-- "Functional WoodArt" by Debbie, Canada (http://www.execulink.com/~yohan)
WayneC
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5685 posts in 584 days
posted 449 days ago
Karson is more of a pusher of veneer….lol
I belive he sent OS some to play with.
-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov
oscorner
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4573 posts in 798 days
posted 448 days ago
Thanks, Iclashley…I viewed those before I began and they were a great help along with all the LumberJock’s blogs on the subject. I’ve since cut and taped the border to it and will post those pictures soon.
-- Jesus is Lord!