I read about scary sharp while thinking about hand tools last winter. I then proceeded to purchase a couple old Stanley Baily planes.
The blades on those planes where in OK shape and trued up fairly quickly all things considered. My next plane to fuss with was a Craftsman Rabbet plane. This is from the 50’s, however it came “NIB” so while it needed some work it didn’t take much compared to a much used and abused plane from 10 years before that.
So now I’m feeling good and I end up purchasing a Jointer. Ohio Tool Company #7, this is a massive piece of metal in moderately OK condition for the age and the low price makes up for what does need to be done to it. It has a nice thick iron and I’m feeling good.
I chuck it up in the Veritas honing jig and start to dial it into 30 degrees. WHOA! Hold on here what angle is the blade at now? 20 Degrees? Was this solely used on Pine in a former life?
Thats a lot of metal to remove to get it into the 30 degree range. I’ve had good luck with 30 degrees on my smoothing planes and pretty much standardized on it.
Any comments on the best way to go about it? I’ve only ever used 60 grit to “grind” the iron into a set angle however never this much metal. I went to town with 60 grit and it seems like I only scratched the surface. I’m a bit paranoid about trying the bench grinder or any high speed method.
8 comments so far
GaryK
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8274 posts in 394 days
posted 78 days ago
Bench grinder and a lot of water. Slow and easy.
-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.
Mark Shymanski
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293 posts in 118 days
posted 78 days ago
You could use a grinder with one of the grinding wheels that run pretty cool…I think I saw mention of it in Lee’s ‘The Complete Guide to Sharpening’ book.
-- ....next big purchase is wood for the next project, Mark
Roper
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219 posts in 119 days
posted 78 days ago
hey marc, you could use a tormek and grind it to where you want it. i also have started a love affair with old hand tools,and in doing so have noticed that in bigger planes such as 6 7 and 8 that the factory angle is ok for the work you are doing. my 4 is at 30 degrees but all my big stuff is about 20 or 25 and it works fine. just remember to sharpin all the way to 8000 to get a really good cut.
-- Roper - master of sawdust-
Don Mitchell
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30 posts in 542 days
posted 78 days ago
Check out the latest edition of Fine Woodworking. There is a good article in there about hollow grinding blades on a grinder.
-- http://mitchell-woodworks.com/default.aspx
Beginningwoodworker
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265 posts in 79 days
posted 78 days ago
I use waterstones and sandpaper to sharpen my blades.
-- CJIII Future cabinetmaker
Don Niermann
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124 posts in 378 days
posted 78 days ago
Take the time to grind and hone them to the right angle. It will pay off.
-- WOOD/DON (...one has the right to ones opinion but not the right to ones own facts...)
Ryan Shervill
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177 posts in 218 days
posted 78 days ago
Almost ashamed to admit it….but I have done the initial grind to change the angle on…...a stationary belt sander spinning a 180 belt. I got a big bucket of cool water, attached the blade to a block of maple cut at the 35 degree angle I was after, then ground away. 3 seconds on the belt, into the bucket. 3 more on the belt, back in the bucket, repeat, repeat, repeat.
Straight to the 400 emery after that, then up through 600,800,1000,1500,2000, etc.
or...Lee Valley sells replacement blades for most planes (If you screw up :) )
Ryan
-- If you can't set a good example, at least serve as a horrible warning... www.rarewoodcreations.com
marcb
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90 posts in 79 days
posted 78 days ago
Thanks for all the ideas.
I split the difference and went with 25 degrees. Swapping the 60 grit out rapidly I was able to “grind” off about 1/2 of it, I’ll get to work on the rest tonight.
Ryan, I was actually thinking – If I only had a belt sander I could do this quickly!
I’m going to stick with the slow but can’t screw it up method for right now.