I can’t find a pic of the new side door, but that’s OK, it doesn’t take much imagination: white, steel, doorknob, dead bolt. That’s about it. I won’t miss the paddlock that I had been using.
So, the outside is coming along nicely, the wind isn’t whipping through the place, and I’ve made several hundred mud dauber wasps homeless. On to the next set of problems. When I started, there was a partition wall running down the middle of the garage, and a small 4×8 area that was walled in as part of a kennel. They all had to go! (pics later, if I can find them).
OK, I’ve now had one continuous space. There is still a problem though. The ceiling. Well, not exactly a ceiling, but the trusses were build such that I had cross beams (2×4 and 2×6 mixed) at about 7’6”. I know from working in the basement, that this will not do. So, I put on my thinking cap, and more importantly called a friend who is a framing carpenter. Together, we came up with a solution – make a vaulted ceiling.
After the new (and much stronger) truss/ceiling frame was in place, I was able to cut out the cross beams. Now, I had a ceiling that was at about 7’6” at the outside walls, but 10’6” in the center. The difference was amazing!
Up next episode: The trials and tribulations of electricity.
And, a follow up question for you: I’m trying to decide what to do about covering the walls. Sadly, the studs are unevenly spaced, so whatever I do will doubtless be a pain. Currently, I’m considering:
Drywall (cheap, but I really don’t like it)
T&G 1/2” plywood
1/2” OSB
Any thoughts?
-- To do is to be
4 comments so far
GaryK
home | projects | blog
8274 posts in 394 days
posted 107 days ago
Looks like a great solution. Head room is always great.
Looking forward to your electrical installation.
-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.
Scott Bryan
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8049 posts in 228 days
posted 107 days ago
It is really beginning to come together. Thanks for sharing.
With regards to your question drywall has the advantage of having a better appearance when painted which will help lighten up the shop.
Plywood will look ok painted but the seams will show. OSG will be tought to cover with paint. But with both of these you will have a solid surface that you can attach to without having to search for studs.
If it were my shop I probably would drywall it because (1) I enjoy painting and (2) the cost differential (meaning I am cheap).
-- With God's help all things are possible- even woodworking. Woodworking is not just a hobby, it is an (expletive deleted) expensive hobby.
Jon Spelbring
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51 posts in 659 days
posted 107 days ago
Scott, thanks for the input. I’m hoping that lighting won’t be an issue. I have 4 windows, and the main shop lights will be:
4 8’ fluorescent fixtures with 2×90 watt bulbs each
2 ceiling fans with 3×60 watt bulbs each
I also have 4 300 watt halogen fixtures for above the bench, and other work areas.
Drywall is indeed cheaper, but after doing the ceiling, I’m not sure that I could face another taping and mudding session :-)
-- To do is to be
John Gray
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513 posts in 291 days
posted 106 days ago
If the studs are unevenly spaced put the drywall, 10 footers, on horizontally instead of vertically I believe that will give you less waste.
-- Only the Shadow knows....................