I’ve got most of the pieces cut and I’m starting to put the table together. In the first picture I’ve got the apron attached to the legs with pocket screws. I’ve put the table on the top to mark where the legs meet the top so I can notch the corners. You’ll notice the grain orientation on the aprons is less than ideal. These pieces are hidden, so I used some scrap with the grain running the wrong way.
In this second picture I’m attaching the top to the legs and apron, again with pocket screws. I notched the corners with my scroll saw and it worked very well. For pieces that don’t show the joinery I really like pocket screws due to the sped of assembly and a very solid connection. You can also see the holes in the bottom of the legs than will accept the 3/8” inserts for leg levelers.
Here’s a top view of the table. The sides are covered with a decorative panel so you won’t see the ends of the plywood.
Here I’ve taped and marked the opening for the lift and lower section of the table. Using a jigsaw and a straight edge gives an acceptable straight cut that can be cleaned-up easily with an orbital sander.
Here you see the completed cutout. Even with the tape and a precision blade the jigsaw still has some slight tearout on the crosscuts. Not sure what you can do with an interior cut like this on plywood to eliminate it. The exposed edges will be covered with wood edge banding.
Here you see the corner bracing I’ve added to stiffen the corners and provide the table with more strength. The corner braces are 3/4” oak I salvaged from a stair railing I mentioned in another blog.
I’ll be banding the lid and assembly the decorative side here next. I’m still not sure what I’m doing for the 1/4” inserts in the decorative sides. The beadboard at the box stores is cheesy, and they don’t have any in unfinished oak. I’ve thought about veneering some panels with some nice veneer I have, but the long pieces would need to be bookmatched and I haven’t tried veneering yet and don’t have a vacuum press. I might have to wait awhile and look for some actual oak beadboard to buy.
9 comments so far
John Gray
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698 posts in 373 days
posted 122 days ago
Lookin’ good!!!! Please keep us posted.
-- Only the Shadow knows....................
Todd A. Clippinger
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2536 posts in 587 days
posted 122 days ago
You can iron on veneer, here is how to do it:
1. Get the paper-backed veneer that is widely available. The paper-backed is easier to deal with, the raw veneer may send you straight to the head of the class in the level of difficulty.
2. EVENLY spread Titebond glue on both surfaces to be joined and let dry. Evenly is key as you can see by the emphasis.
3. Use iron to press the two together. Use a shop towel between the iron and veneer. I use it on the “high” setting. Have a roller or piece of wood for concentrating pressure as needed.
This works really well. Try a couple of test pieces and you will figure out how fast you need to move with the iron for a good bond.
I have a vacuum press and I still do this sometimes because the vac press can’t do it all.
-- Todd A. Clippinger, Montana, http://amcraftsman.com
Greg Wurst
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414 posts in 320 days
posted 122 days ago
Regular Titebond glue or the cold press veneering glue? I thought about trying this veneer glue I was recommended:
http://www.veneersupplies.com/product_info.php?products_id=737&osCsid=35adb02345917fd44aaebb94c1421e48
The biggest problem I see is that you can’t easily bookmatch with iron-on veneering due to wood creep and shrinkage. Of course, If I buy a paper-backed veneer in the sizes I need that wouldn’t be a problem.
Right now I’m talking to a company in Toledo that specializes in thin wood panels to see if I can get some 1/4” figured cherry for the panels and practice my veneering skills before I ruin some nice veneer.
My biggest problem is impatience. I hate letting a project sit while I wait for supplies, but better that than rush and ruin a piece.
Todd A. Clippinger
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2536 posts in 587 days
posted 122 days ago
Well, the HeatLock is certainly formulated specifically for the task, but I have only used the Titebond II.
The directions listed on the HeatLock are just the way that I do it except that I use the Titebond II.
You are correct about using a piece wide enough to avoid creating a seam.
-- Todd A. Clippinger, Montana, http://amcraftsman.com
Greg Wurst
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414 posts in 320 days
posted 122 days ago
I have plenty of Titebond II lying-around, so I might give that a try with some test pieces just for the experience. I’ve always wanted to make one of those nice little boxes with the beautiful veneer. This might be a good opportunity, and if I screw-up it’s just a small piece of veneer.
Todd A. Clippinger
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2536 posts in 587 days
posted 121 days ago
It’s easier than you think.
-- Todd A. Clippinger, Montana, http://amcraftsman.com
trifern
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4079 posts in 254 days
posted 121 days ago
Looks good. I look forward to seeing the finished product.
-- Depend on the rabbit's foot if you will, but remember it didn't work for the rabbit.
Scott Bryan
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9122 posts in 309 days
posted 121 days ago
This is looking pretty good. The finished piece is going to be well worth the effort.
-- With God's help all things are possible- even woodworking. Woodworking is not just a hobby, it is an (expletive deleted) expensive hobby.
GaryK
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8489 posts in 475 days
posted 120 days ago
Lookin’ good so far!
-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.