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Cabinet Progress #15: Slow Progress

Blog entry by gizmodyne posted 336 days ago 267 reads 0 times favorited 20 comments Add to Favorites
« Part 14: And the Winner is..... Part 15 of Cabinet Progress series Part 16: Cabinet 2: Last Drawer Standing »

Before I install the dishwasher panel I need to fit a piece of trim to cover the mortar bed. So back to the wood pile.

I need 11 feet of trim so I pulled a 12 footer from my stash and began the resaw process.

First: Metal detector boogie and pull nails. (About 50 this time)

Getting ready to resaw. Tiny Shop!

Resawing:

My outfeed support.

Planer cleanup. Unfortunately a knot blew out, so I am going to have to scarf two pieces.

Trim stock.

Ran out of steam. It is cold. (58) Hopefully I will get it together tomorrow. It is my first time scribing which I am nervous about. Any advice?

-- -John "Do I have to keep typing a smiley? Just assume it's a joke." www.flickr.com/photos/gizmodyne

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gizmodyne

1479 posts in 576 days


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scarf trim douglas fir cabinet

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20 comments so far

View Todd A. Clippinger's profile

Todd A. Clippinger

2536 posts in 585 days


posted 336 days ago

Love the post. Love the bandsaw!

What are you scribing to?

-- Todd A. Clippinger, Montana, http://amcraftsman.com

View Karson's profile

Karson

12910 posts in 886 days


posted 336 days ago

Nice stand for outfield. Where did you pick it up. (excuse me, Where did you get her!) Sorry.

Nice helper.

-- Karson Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com

View Todd A. Clippinger's profile

Todd A. Clippinger

2536 posts in 585 days


posted 336 days ago

The safest way to get a good scribe is to use something like 1/4” hardboard and scribe and cut that. Test fit and adjust as necessary. MDF hardboard works good because it is consistent.

This makes a pattern that you can transfer to your finished piece of wood. This works good for complex scribing and reduces the risk of screwing up the materials, especially limited in quantity. For simple scribing, I just stick the board or trim against the surface to be scribed, lay the pencil on its side and make the mark.

-- Todd A. Clippinger, Montana, http://amcraftsman.com

View gizmodyne's profile

gizmodyne

1479 posts in 576 days


posted 336 days ago

Thanks Todd. Good advice on the scribing. I am scribing up against tile (a bullnose cap) You can see the mortar bed. So I will be covering the plywood and mortar bed.

I am not sure how far to overlap the cabinet face frame. I do not want the board to shrink and reveal anything ugly.

-- -John "Do I have to keep typing a smiley? Just assume it's a joke." www.flickr.com/photos/gizmodyne

View Betsy's profile

Betsy

1779 posts in 382 days


posted 336 days ago

i like your bandsaw outfeed—- out the door.

I’m going to plead ignorance on the scribe thing. I’m assuming you are marking a line to match the contour of what you are applying trim to. I hope you take pictures of the process.

-- Betsy - GO BUCKS!

View gizmodyne's profile

gizmodyne

1479 posts in 576 days


posted 336 days ago

Karson. Yes. Best helper ever.

-- -John "Do I have to keep typing a smiley? Just assume it's a joke." www.flickr.com/photos/gizmodyne

View Todd A. Clippinger's profile

Todd A. Clippinger

2536 posts in 585 days


posted 336 days ago

I am not entirely clear of the order of your trim board and face frame. Is the scribed board to be scribed on its’ edge to go against the tile? Or are you trying to carve out the back of the board to lay flat over the squished out mortar?

-- Todd A. Clippinger, Montana, http://amcraftsman.com

View gizmodyne's profile

gizmodyne

1479 posts in 576 days


posted 336 days ago

Todd. RE: the bandsaw.

It has been a great tool. 1 1/2 hp and 10” resaw capacity. This capacity is decent. I have not needed to go over that yet. I keep a 1/2” blade on the saw.

-- -John "Do I have to keep typing a smiley? Just assume it's a joke." www.flickr.com/photos/gizmodyne

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gizmodyne

1479 posts in 576 days


posted 336 days ago

The mortar is completely flat. I am scribing the top edge of the board.

-- -John "Do I have to keep typing a smiley? Just assume it's a joke." www.flickr.com/photos/gizmodyne

View Todd A. Clippinger's profile

Todd A. Clippinger

2536 posts in 585 days


posted 336 days ago

Can the scribed board be the top rail of the face frame? I am zooming in on the image but I am viewing it on a 13” laptop, and the picture gets dark and vague for me at the bottom.

I would definitely go with creating the pattern with a disposable scribing strip out of hardboard to be safe. I always have some of this material in the shop because it is inexpensive and is very versatile in making templates, jigs, and patterns.

-- Todd A. Clippinger, Montana, http://amcraftsman.com

View gizmodyne's profile

gizmodyne

1479 posts in 576 days


posted 336 days ago

The scribed board will go between the existing top rail and the tile.

-- -John "Do I have to keep typing a smiley? Just assume it's a joke." www.flickr.com/photos/gizmodyne

View Todd A. Clippinger's profile

Todd A. Clippinger

2536 posts in 585 days


posted 336 days ago

I don’t think that you will have to worry about it shrinking and exposing much. Your trim is not that wide and the shrinkage will be negligible. Will a 1/4” overlap be too much and encroach into anything else like the doors?

-- Todd A. Clippinger, Montana, http://amcraftsman.com

View Todd A. Clippinger's profile

Todd A. Clippinger

2536 posts in 585 days


posted 336 days ago

Also how thick is it to be?

-- Todd A. Clippinger, Montana, http://amcraftsman.com

View gizmodyne's profile

gizmodyne

1479 posts in 576 days


posted 336 days ago

1/4” thick. 2 3/4” max width.

There is a skinny 1” rail at the top. I thought about just an 1/8 overlay.

-- -John "Do I have to keep typing a smiley? Just assume it's a joke." www.flickr.com/photos/gizmodyne

View Todd A. Clippinger's profile

Todd A. Clippinger

2536 posts in 585 days


posted 336 days ago

An 1/8” overlay would be what I would shoot for. 1/4” would allow extra security for exessive deviations in construction. I don’t know how bad the situation is in your house, I know how bad it can be. I had in mind that it would be 1/4” thick as you are doing. I must be envisioning your plan accurately. These are long distance recommendations.

-- Todd A. Clippinger, Montana, http://amcraftsman.com

View gizmodyne's profile

gizmodyne

1479 posts in 576 days


posted 336 days ago

Thanks for all of the advice Todd.

-- -John "Do I have to keep typing a smiley? Just assume it's a joke." www.flickr.com/photos/gizmodyne

View cajunpen's profile

cajunpen

5348 posts in 552 days


posted 336 days ago

Looks like you are on the right path giz, I like the way you overcome the limits that a small shop put on us (I know the feeling). Good luck with your project.

-- Bill - "Suit yourself and let the rest be pleased." http://www.cajunpen.com/

View gizmodyne's profile

gizmodyne

1479 posts in 576 days


posted 335 days ago

Well I built it to be this size. So I have to complain to myself.

I learned at class that 80% of my time is spent at the workbench anyway. So I buy nice castors and roll things around. I have not quite gotten the layout perfect, but it’s getting there.

I really need to build a planer cart. My new layout is the best so far. I have the workbench at the door side. I can get buy, but can open the door if needed. This has freed up more wall space along the old workbench wall.

-- -John "Do I have to keep typing a smiley? Just assume it's a joke." www.flickr.com/photos/gizmodyne

View Thos. Angle's profile

Thos. Angle

3236 posts in 448 days


posted 333 days ago

Can I borrow your out feed support? It looks like it works very well.

-- Thos. Angle, Owyhee Design, Oregon

View gizmodyne's profile

gizmodyne

1479 posts in 576 days


posted 330 days ago

Not for loan. Sorry.

-- -John "Do I have to keep typing a smiley? Just assume it's a joke." www.flickr.com/photos/gizmodyne

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