With a bit of searching through the piles, we were able to find some pieces that would work without much cutting required. I showed them how to line up and mark their pieces so they could see where to spread the glue. I also let them do the glue spreading themselves.

The only real glitch we ran into was when we attempted to glue the small side pieces on that would connect the front of the bench to the back. After letting the glue dry for 30 mins, I removed the clamps. All seemed well until I attempted to move the bench and that is when it all fell apart (literally, not figuratively)! My 7 year old looked up and me and said “maybe we should use nails”. All I could do was laugh.

I’ve told this story to one of my friends in Chicago and he has been busting my chops since then asking when I’m going to complete this little wonder project. Well Paul, here it is. And this time I used screws!

The girls are very happy with their bench and after we return from vacation, I’ll show them how to sand it down to take off the sharp edges and perhaps we’ll do some painting.

In the first segmented pen I made I tried to rely on the (360 degrees / # of segments) / 2 formula to put together each segmentation layer. I have to admit my cuts on the segmented pieces are probably close to what they should be, but they are not right on. This variable causes gaps and slows down the assembly process.

What I’ve found to work the easiest is to assemble half of each segmented layer separately (picture 1). This allows me to then deal with just two segmented piece per layer. I sand the mating surface of each face flat to create the completed segment layer (picture 2).

(picture 1)

(picture 2)

Once I have all the layers completed, I begin constructing the pen blank. Each layer is glued to the growing blank and the top face is then sanded flat to prepare for the next layer (picture 3).

(picture 3)

The blue painter’s tape is used to keep the segmented pieces from sticking to the plywood work piece. A box knife seems to work well for popping the segmented piece off of the plywood.

The first design I put together with the Walnut and Maple selections is based on the popular celtic knot design. In this version, I went with a single knot. I didn’t think the design would be recognizable enough if I tried a double knot. Then again this is why I’m putting together these prototypes, isn’t it? I’ll have to try the double knot with three wood species that might help define the design enough.

The alternating color layers at the top of this design are just something to break up the solid Maple. I think it may distract a little from the knot design and I may eliminate that if I do glue up this design.

Design 1:

I like this second design for the mere simplicity of it. One of the keys of this design is not just that there is a large diagonal stripe of Maple running through the Walnut, but that there is only one full layer of Maple in that whole transition. That of course just might go to show that I really over think this stuff!

I again run in the dilemma of what to do with the second half of the pen though. This example is the length of the pen body rather than the pen cap. Making the design fit the cap would eliminate the ability to add the solid layers of Walnut, which I will admit is not a crucial requirement. I think some more thought is going to be needed before this design sees any glue.

Design 2:

This third Maple and Walnut design is a variation of the “argyle sock” I showed in group one. In this version I didn’t separate the diamond patterns with a defined border. I also added the alternating wood species to the center of each diamond. I think this design could look ok if it were glued up as I think it would transition well from the cap the pen body.

Design 3:

I didn’t want to get into gluing anything and commit myself to a design I didn’t fully like, so I carefully stacked my segments and let gravity hold everything together for me. I figured this method would let me quickly see, physically, what I thought I was seeing in my head. It would also be much less time intensive than gluing a full blank together to flesh out the complete idea. Each design I have put together is the full size of a Jr. Gent II cap.

After stacking a design and taking a couple pictures from different angles I took apart what I had done and designed another. It was after I had six or eight of these designs that I thought I would put together a blog series to show how these segmented pens would look from design to completed pen.

A couple of the designs I’ve come up with include all three species that I had prepped. This first design is one I’ve been thinking about for a while. With the light color of the Maple separating the Walnut and Jatoba diamond patterns; it reminds me of an argyle sock.

Design 1:

Another design I put together uses all three species in staggered columns. I’m on the fence about how I feel about this design. I think this design is the best example of why I find it helpful to put together these little prototypes though. I know the final look will be slightly different than what is shown here simply because the length of each segment will be smaller. But I’m not convinced yet that it will work.

Design 2:

I’ve not yet thought of a nick-name for this third prototype but it is one that I like. The only real concern I have with this design is how it would transition from the cap to the body of the pen. I can’t decide if perhaps a solid color body should be used, or should the pattern repeat itself on the body. Again, here is another good example of how prototypes can help prevent wasting time and materials on a design.

Design 3:

The forth prototype is a similar design to my first segmented Jr. Gent II roller ball. In this example the peaks and valleys are a bit higher and deeper. I think the colors contrast well in this example. I think there is a good chance that this prototype could become a pen. I think the balance of color is what I like the most about this particular design.

Design 4:

A collection of early pens made with Bird’s Eye Maple and Rosewood.

One of my friends, and fellow Jock, also turns pens. He had provided me with some “gentile encouragement” to take my pen making abilities to the next level. With Christmas coming up quickly, I decided I would take the opportunity to experiment on a group of pens my wife had asked me to make for our daughter’s school teachers.

The pens made for the teachers were all made with slim line kits. I created six different designs for the 13 pens. For wood selections, the set of pens used Sapele, Bloodwood, Maple and Walnut. I also used a new finishing technique of CA glue (superglue) and BLO (boiled linseed oil). I’m pretty pleased with how the collection turned out and have received several very nice compliments from the teachers that received them. The designs I like best from this group are the “harlequin” style that are shown in the picture below. The harlequin in the middle, of the picture below, is made with walnut and maple. The harlequin on the far right, of the picture below, is made of maple and bloodwood.

A sample of the designs used in the Teacher’s gift set.

Shortly after finishing the pens created for the teacher’s I attended a local turner’s group meeting that featured one of the members doing a demonstration of his segmented bowls. I decided to try implementing those techniques into my pens.

The segmenting process I use is fairly straightforward. I build my pen blanks in a bricklayer’s fashion (offsetting seams). For this first pen, I used a combination of Maple, Jatoba and Walnut segments. After milling strips of ¾ inch wide stock down to 1/8 inch in thickness, I then cut each of the segmented pieces at 30 degrees allowing for six segments to be used in each layer of the blank.

My first segmented pen attempt was a success and failure all in one! The body of the pen came out as I had hoped. Turning the cap however, is where the trouble started. In the process of turning the cap, one end of the blank blew apart. I eventually completed the pen by turning a piece of Ebony for the cap.

My first fully segmented pen with damaged cap.

My first completed segmented pen.

This segmented pen was also my first time using a fountain pen kit. The kit is a Classic American Fountain Pen. There are few things I didn’t like about this kit:
• With the cap screwed on to the back of the pen, the pen is very top heavy and awkward to write with.
• When turning the cap, you are required to turn on end down to the brass tube (this is where my segmented piece came apart) to fit the pieces together.
• The ink dries out real quick in the nib and it’s a bit of a nuisance to get it flowing again.

I have seen several postings, at the IAP (International Association of Penturners) website, of pens made with the Jr. Gentlemen’s II kit. Liking the look of this kit, I decided I would try a few out. I ordered four kits to start with, two rollerball and two fountain pens. I’ve made two segmented pens using the Jr. Gent kit, and have a third in the works, and have been very happy with the look and feel of this kit. I’ve also found, from quite a bit of reading, that rhodium, black titanium and gold titanium are the most durable finishes on pen kits. My goal is to try and focus on only using kits with these available finishes.

My first segmented Jr. Gent II fountain pen with black titanium finish.

My first segmented Jr Gent II rollerball pen with black titanium finish.

As I work on my next segmented pen I thought I would take some time to work on a few different designs to see what works and what doesn’t. I decided to work with some smaller segments as well. The next few pens will include eight segments per layer versus the six segments per layer I had used in the first couple of pens. To start, I cut several hundred segments of Maple, Jatoba and Walnut.

Maple, Walnut and Jatoba segments (left to right).