I have concluded that I need to replace the current fence with something that will retain alignment.

Are there any LJ’s out there who have a Bosch 4000 and experienced the same issue and if so, I would like to know how you have resolved it.

Thanks,

Dalec

Now the problem: The two boards are warped (the edges are straight, but the boards (measure 57/64” thick) do not align (off by approximately 1/8”) . Is there a way to join the two boards and straighten the boards without planing the boards flat by using dowel or other mechanical joinery? If we are able to join the two boards without milling the two boards flat, will the stress on the joint be too likely to fail or will some mechanical joinery (doweling)

Welcome any ideas anyone has.

Dale

I need some advice.

I am having difficulting ripping two boards such that their edges can be joined. My cuts are just slightly off. I will be retuning my TS today to get it down as close as I can. I am using a contractor saw, so it is not nearly as precise as a cabinet saw.

I am thinking, after reading about making mirror cuts using a router. I don’t have a router, but after some thought, I am thinking about taking a piece of scrap plywood and joining to two boards together so the two board edges will be ripped using a single pass rip. The plywood would hold the two boards stationary relative to each other though the cut, so I should end up with a mirror cut that can be glued.

Will this work? Any other thoughts?

Thanks,

Dalec

I guess I am in the market for another dado set.

With my regular combination blade, I have been turning the nut to firm up against the blade and then giving it a good firm tap. This seems to work with a single blade. I used the same with the dado turning ensuring none of the teeth are touching and the chippers are at 90 degrees to each other, but this is tightening method is not very precise and I may not have gotten it as tight as usual. Given the number of blades in a dado set, there are more chance of not seating the blades parallel and tightly, so tightening the nut as usual may have only shifted the blades over and not tighten as much as necessary.

What is your process for mounting and tightening your single blades and dado blades?

Dalec

The table was built for them probably 25 years ago. The table top is made up of four myrtlewood boards approx. 40” long x 10” wide and 3/4” thick. The joints between board 1&2 and 3&4 have failed. There are gaps between the boards that the original builder attempted to control by adding additional stretchers and gluding and screwing to the underside of the table top. the table legs and appron appear to be different wood than the table top.

I have not given them a definite answer on whether I want to take on this project.

What I would like to know if who you might suggest I approach the project. Would you suggest I disassemble to table and use the salvageable wood to build a new table, or can I same some of the assembled parts (boards 2&3 in that the joint is still solid) and any other parts for the downsized table?

Are there any issues with myrtlewood I need to know about?

The friends say, if I mess it up, it is ok, but I really don’t want to do the project unless I have a good sense for the project and that it is in my skill level to accomplish.

Thanks for looking and any ideas you might have.

Dalec

I am just starting out with not a lot of equipment, but have found a need to flatten some boards. It was suggested to me that I look at getting a planer as a next purchase rather than a jointer. In part this was a budgetary issue and also a space issue.

I have been using my shop vac attached to my bench table saw to control the saw dust. But with the idea of getting a planer, I knew I needed to get serious about dust collection and control, especially with my shop sharing the garage. I have been running my saw and shop vac off the existing 20 amp circuit in the garage. I decided I need to add two additional 120v 20 amp circuits to my garage. With the electrical panel within a few feet of my saw, it made the job much easier. Now I have a dedicated circuit for dust collection and one for a power tool.

I ordered a delta 50-760 dust collector, jet air filteration system and the Dewalt 735 planer with the in-feed and outfeed tables. The filteration system arrived and is installed. The planer arrived last week, as I was working, I thought I would wait for the dust collector to arrive and to set up both as the same time.

I went ahead and unboxed the planer. I had an old miter saw stand that came with my Rigid miter saw that I had broken down about a year ago. I thought I would put it together and use it as the base for the planer. Once I mounted to planer to the stand, I attached the in and outfeed tables, adjusted the tables to be level with the planer deck. The stand works nicely for the planer stand, it is a bit tall, but serviceable.

I decided to try out the planer even without the dust collector. Made a sled out of 3/4” plywood, put in my ear protection, put an oak board on the sled and lowered the planer head to touch the board, pulled the board away from the cutter heads, turned on the planer, lowered the head 1/4 a turn and pushed the sled until it was picked up by the planer roller. Out the other side, and then ran the board through twice more lowering the cutter 1/4 – 1/2 turn each time. What a nice finish! It was much smoother than I had expected. Fliipped the flattened side over and ran it through the planer without the sled. a couple more times lowering the crank 1/4 to 1/2 turn each time. I now have a board that is flat on both sides, no snipe and very smooth. It feels like magic. The Dewalt 735 on the first run through is as good as the reviews on LJ and Fine Woodworking say it is.

I then look down behind the planer and I saw saw dust everywhere. Maybe no more planing until I get my dust collection system running, then again, it was some much fun, maybe not.

Dalec