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    <title>bfd's Blog at LumberJocks.com</title>
    <link>http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/bfd/blog</link>
    <pubDate>Sun, 20 Jul 2008 16:53:11 GMT</pubDate>
    <description></description>
    <item>
      <title>Aalto Inspired Tea Cart #4: Fixing a routing mess up.  </title>
      <link>http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/bfd/blog/5333</link>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>So seeing how woodworking is largely based on problem solving I tought I would post this to show you a recent problem that I had to solve.  When I was routing the edge of one of my bent laminations I accidently nicked the sides leaving a nasty gouge.  My heart sank thinking how much time and money I have invested in these laminations so far. Knowing that if I replace one lamination I would have to replace both since that they are matched from the same flitch of veneer and I would seriously eat into my profits. (the veneer wood costs $175 to replace). I needed to come up with a way to try and fix this.  After looking for a solution I found it in one of my woodworking books. <em>Taunton&#8217;s Complete illsutrated Guide to Working with Wood by Andy Rae.</em> had the answer to my problem.  Create a patch.  So that is what I set out to do.</p>


	<p><a href="<redpre#0"><img src="http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn9/bsfuller/PA050030.jpg" alt="" /></a>></a></p>


	<p>Having saved my cut offs from my lamination the first thing I did was to use a 1/2&#8221; plug cuttiing bit to drill out the plug.  I then used a 1/2&#8221; forstner bit to drill out about a 1/4&#8221; deep hole in the lamination. notice I didn&#8217;t cut an entire circle  I then glued in my plug and let it dry.</p>


	<p><a href="<redpre#1"><img src="http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn9/bsfuller/PA050031.jpg" alt="" /></a>></a></p>


	<p>After it dried I trimmed the plug with my flush cut saw.</p>


	<p><a href="<redpre#2"><img src="http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn9/bsfuller/PA050033.jpg" alt="" /></a>></a></p>


	<p>And then hit it with some sand paper.  Almost as good as new.</p>


	<p><a href="<redpre#3"><img src="http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn9/bsfuller/PA050035.jpg" alt="" /></a>></a></p>


	<p><a href="<redpre#4"><img src="http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn9/bsfuller/PA050037.jpg" alt="" /></a>></a></p>


	<p>Now back to the rest of the project!</p>]]>
      </description>
      <pubDate>Sun, 20 Jul 2008 16:53:11 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/bfd/blog/5333</guid>
      <author>bfd</author>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Aalto Inspired Tea Cart #3: Refining the laminations and underwater basket weaving</title>
      <link>http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/bfd/blog/5251</link>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>Did I mention how over my head I am with this project?  Well after taking a week off from woodworking between a trip to Vegas and not being able to work in the shop due to the smokey air in the Sacramento area I am back to work.  Now that I have the laminations glued up I needed to figure out a way to trim them down to finished width.  I intentionally glued the laminations up at 3 1/2&#8221; knowing that I needed to yield a 2 1/2&#8221; wide leg.  This was a challenge since I couldn&#8217;t use my 6&#8221; jointer to clean up the edge nor could I use my Bandsaw or Table saw due to the shape.  To be honest I didn&#8217;t think this through and didn&#8217;t discover this until I was working on my test piece. How do I clean up these edges?  I decided to use my bending forms as a reference point to clean up the edges. putting the laminations back in the form I let one edge pertrude from the form and set the form on its side.  I made a simple sled for my router and began the task of routing the edge down until it sat flush with the form.  <br /><a href="<redpre#0"><img src="http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn9/bsfuller/JulyPhotos115.jpg" alt="" /></a>></a></p>


	<p>I followed this up with a belt sander.  This established one flat side which I was then able to reference for the second side.  I flipped the form over and followed the same procedure to bring the second side down to just shy of final thickness.</p>


	<p><a href="<redpre#1"><img src="http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn9/bsfuller/JulyPhotos117.jpg" alt="" /></a>></a></p>


	<p>I needed to do a little filling on the edges so I made a mixture of some titebond II, a little water, and some sawdust that I collected from sanding.</p>


	<p><a href="<redpre#2"><img src="http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn9/bsfuller/JulyPhotos118.jpg" alt="" /></a>></a></p>


	<p>Now time to break out the card scraper and do some hand sanding and cut to final length.</p>


	<p><a href="<redpre#3"><img src="http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn9/bsfuller/JulyPhotos123.jpg" alt="" /></a>></a></p>


	<p><a href="<redpre#4"><img src="http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn9/bsfuller/JulyPhotos125.jpg" alt="" /></a>></a></p>


	<p>Finally I again used my router this time with 1/8&#8221;round over bit to ease the edge. Here they are all cleaned up.</p>


	<p><a href="<redpre#5"><img src="http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn9/bsfuller/JulyPhotos128.jpg" alt="" /></a>></a></p>


	<p><a href="<redpre#6"><img src="http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn9/bsfuller/JulyPhotos127.jpg" alt="" /></a>></a></p>


	<p>Now to do some veneering.  The lower tray of the tea cart calls for a veneered surface so I layout the veneer and decide to lay it up with a slip match.  (I like the way quarter sawn grain looks slip matched). <br /><a href="<redpre#7"><img src="http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn9/bsfuller/PA040014.jpg" alt="" /></a>></a></p>


	<p>I trim up the veneer using a flush trim bit and router placing the veneer between two jointed pieces of plywood.  This made it easier to joint the edge at the jointer.</p>


	<p><a href="<redpre#8"><img src="http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn9/bsfuller/PA040017.jpg" alt="" /></a>></a></p>


	<p>I edged glued the veneer together both front and back and glue to some 1/2 birch ply.  since I don&#8217;t yet have a vacuum press I pressed it between some melamine and particle board and clamps.</p>


	<p><a href="<redpre#9"><img src="http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn9/bsfuller/PA050029.jpg" alt="" /></a>></a></p>


	<p>The other thing I needed to figure out was how I was going to build a woven wood basket that the client wanted.  So after thinking about it I come up with a way to build a basket and I do a partial mock up. It envolves soaking the wood in water to loosen the fibers.  When I go to do the real basket I will use only the tight parallel grain.  Well off to work thanks for checking this out.</p>


	<p><a href="<redpre#10"><img src="http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn9/bsfuller/PA040019.jpg" alt="" /></a>></a></p>


	<p><a href="<redpre#11"><img src="http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn9/bsfuller/PA040021.jpg" alt="" /></a>></a></p>


	<p><a href="<redpre#12"><img src="http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn9/bsfuller/PA040023.jpg" alt="" /></a>></a></p>


	<p>!http://<a href="http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn9/bsfuller/PA040025.jpg!">http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn9/bsfuller/PA040025.jpg!</a>:<a href="http://s300.photobucket.com/albums/nn9/bsfuller/?action=view&amp;current=PA040025.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn9/bsfuller/PA040025.jpg" alt="Photobucket"></a></p>]]>
      </description>
      <pubDate>Sun, 13 Jul 2008 17:32:06 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/bfd/blog/5251</guid>
      <author>bfd</author>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Aalto Inspired Tea Cart #2: The Wheels are in motion!</title>
      <link>http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/bfd/blog/5070</link>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>The first order of business was to start on something simple for this project&#8230;Cutting the wheels.  Since the client wanted painted wheels I decided to do them out of MDF since it will be stable and paint out very well.  Using my homemade circle jig I set the jig to cut a 14&#8221;DIA circle.  Taking a light 1st pass I go down to about 1/4&#8221;. I then took my jig saw and followed just inside the outer edge of my router cut to remove the bulk of the material.  I then followed up with my router again to trim up the rest of the stock to arrive at a perfect circle.  Step 1 done!  <br /><a href="<redpre#0"><img src="http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn9/bsfuller/P9030095.jpg" alt="" /></a>></a></p>


	<p><a href="<redpre#1"><img src="http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn9/bsfuller/P9030097.jpg" alt="" /></a>></a></p>


	<p>Now It gets interesting.  <br />I decided to take the CAD drawing that I had of the tea cart and print the frame shape out full scale.  Doing this on my home printer meant that I needed to print this on 8.5&#215;11 size paper so I created a 6&#8221;x6&#8221; grid over the shape and printed 24 pages.  I then connected my grid together to create my paper template.</p>


	<p><a href="<redpre#2"><img src="http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn9/bsfuller/P9040106.jpg" alt="" /></a>></a></p>


	<p>I now turn my sights to building the bending form.  This takes almost 2 full 4&#215;8 sheets of MDF.  The form requires 5 layers of 3/4 mdf so  I have a lot of cutting and routing ahead of me. I used good old graphite on the back of the paper template and traced over my lines to transfer the shape onto my top piece of mdf which would become my permanent template.  I cut the mdf out accounting for the thickness of the lamination (I needed 5/8&#8221;) and filed and sanded until I was happy with the shape.  I then cut the remaining 4 layers one at a time clamping each piece to my new MDF template and then used my router and flush trim bit.  Once I had all 5 layers for both male and female forms I glued and nailed them up. That female section of the form is HEAVY.</p>


	<p><a href="<redpre#3"><img src="http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn9/bsfuller/P9160117.jpg" alt="" /></a>></a></p>


	<p>Since this was my first time doing bent lamination I decide to do a test run to iron out any glitches that I know I will encounter.  I am using QTR SAWN ASH WITH A LIGHT FIGURE and I decided due to the complex curve I needed to do this lamination out of veneer. Here are a few shots of the stock that I purchased from TheVeneerStore.COM.</p>


	<p><a href="<redpre#4"><img src="http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn9/bsfuller/P9030099.jpg" alt="" /></a>></a></p>


	<p><a href="<redpre#6"><img src="http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn9/bsfuller/P9030102.jpg" title="<redpre#5></a>" alt="<redpre#5></a>" /></a>></a></p>


	<p>Each lamination consists of 25 layers!  I used Better Bond CAT PPR veneer glue for this.  The results&#8230;Still in the rough stage but you get the idea.</p>


	<p><a href="<redpre#7"><img src="http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn9/bsfuller/P9180119-1.jpg" alt="" /></a>></a></p>


	<p><a href="<redpre#8"><img src="http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn9/bsfuller/P9160118.jpg" alt="" /></a>></a></p>


	<p><a href="<redpre#9"><img src="http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn9/bsfuller/P9160115.jpg" alt="" /></a>></a></p>


	<p>I have a lot of hand work to get these to where I need them to be but that will be for another day.</p>]]>
      </description>
      <pubDate>Fri, 27 Jun 2008 02:58:21 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/bfd/blog/5070</guid>
      <author>bfd</author>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Aalto Inspired Tea Cart #1: The design</title>
      <link>http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/bfd/blog/4889</link>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p><a href="<redpre#0"><img src="http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn9/bsfuller/TEACARTRENDERING.jpg" alt="" /></a>></a></p>


	<p><a href="<redpre#1"><img src="http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn9/bsfuller/TEACARTRENDERING2.jpg" alt="" /></a>></a></p>


	<p>This is my latest project which I am about to undertake.  It is a Tea Cart that was sketched by my client.  She wanted an Alvar Aalto inspired tea cart and she designed this piece and asked me to build it.  There will be a lot of challenges here for me.  The biggest challenge will be the bent wood lamination. The client has selected quarter sawn white ash with a slight fiddleback figure to it. The top tray will be ash with white glass mosaic tiles while the bottom tray will be all ash. The sides of the trays will be box jointed.  The wheels will be painted white and made of either poplar or mdf.  The cart will be for indoor use only.  Also not shown in the sketch will be a woven wood basket that will sit down in the top tray and be removeable.  Needless to say this project will be a huge challenge for me.</p>]]>
      </description>
      <pubDate>Mon, 09 Jun 2008 02:49:47 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/bfd/blog/4889</guid>
      <author>bfd</author>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Modern Modular Bookcase</title>
      <link>http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/bfd/blog/4111</link>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p><a href="http://s300.photobucket.com/albums/nn9/bsfuller/bookcase/?action=view&amp;current=BOOKCASE2A.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn9/bsfuller/bookcase/BOOKCASE2A.jpg" alt="BOOKCASE2A"></a></p>


	<p><a href="http://s300.photobucket.com/albums/nn9/bsfuller/bookcase/?action=view&amp;current=BOOKCASE1A.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn9/bsfuller/bookcase/BOOKCASE1A.jpg" alt="BOOKCASE1A"></a></p>


	<p>This is my entry for the bookcase challenge. I designed my bookcase to be modular and have simple modern lines. I eliminated the &#8220;top&#8221; and &#8220;bottom&#8221; to give the piece an open feel and to reinforce the feeling that the shelves are &#8220;floating&#8221;.  The case or &#8220;shroud&#8221; is 1-1/2&#8221; thick and made up of (2) 3/4&#8221; qtr sawn ash plywood or veneered mdf.  The sides would be clear coated to contrast with the walnut shelves.  The back would be ash as well but I would use a bright red Transtint dye stain to &#8220;pop&#8221; the grain and add a punch of color.  The sides would be edged with 1/8&#8221; solid ash.  Four of the shelves are fully height adjustable and are also 1-1/2&#8221; thick with continuous grain running up and over the front of the shelf.  The center shelf is fixed and adds rigidity to the case.  The center is visually thicker with a drawer below. Again, the drawer front grain would run up and over the front. The shelf and drawerfront would  be beveled in order to acheive this.  The drawer construction showcases handcut dovetails.  The drawer sides would be 1/2&#8221; ash with a red dye ash bottom drawer.  The idea is that this drawer is a bit of a surprise void of any hardware, but, once opened you again see the red and clear coated ash.  The case utilizes biscuit joinery. Pieces should be prefinished prior to assembly.  With such simple lines, execution and exactness will be very important.  Although this is a stand alone piece, I could also see using a pair of these with a &#8220;media bridge&#8221; between them to house entertainment equipment and a flat screen.  The finishes could be modified to suit other interiors.</p>]]>
      </description>
      <pubDate>Sat, 05 Apr 2008 06:01:57 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/bfd/blog/4111</guid>
      <author>bfd</author>
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