To dream a dream

Sounds like a nice project. Looking forward to seeing your results.

-- Growing older but not up!

here are the pics I promissed






As you can see the top and bottom shelves are removeable (I plan to use shelf pins). This is a feature my wife wanted since he is young now and has taller board books and such but when he is 15 he may just want extra shelf space for regular paper backs. And before it is asked yes I plan to secure it to the wall.

-- Jimmy, Oklahoma "It's a dog-eat-dog world, and I'm wearing milkbone underwear!"

wow that does look like a great project. keep up posted on how it goes!

This looks good to me. I like the sliding dovetails.

It also looks like a bookcase entry as well. Were you planning on submitting it?

-- With God's help all things are possible- even woodworking. Woodworking is not just a hobby, it is an (expletive deleted) expensive hobby.

Great drawings Jimmy. Now comes the fun part.

-- Grumpy - "Always look on the bright side of life"- Monty Python

Scott, I don’t speak the Queen’s English but I think the espletive you are looking for in you signature is “bloody”. It just seems to fit. As far as entry, forgive me for being new but what are you talking about?

-- Jimmy, Oklahoma "It's a dog-eat-dog world, and I'm wearing milkbone underwear!"

Looks like a cool plan! The only thing I’d do is put that bottom horizontal piece (I initially typed “shelf”, which it is, kinda) up about 4” and put a strip across the front, that way if the floor and the bottom don’t have the same notion of “flat” you can adjust easier.

I also find that a little kick room to bang the broom around on the bottom of things helps.

-- Dan Lyke, Petaluma California, http://www.flutterby.net/User:DanLyke

Dan, Thanks for the idea, I guess it would be a toe kick. I will have to check vertical clearance in the room and see how much I can come up. That would give a much nicer look.

-- Jimmy, Oklahoma "It's a dog-eat-dog world, and I'm wearing milkbone underwear!"

Just as a side note the online sag calculator was here

-- Jimmy, Oklahoma "It's a dog-eat-dog world, and I'm wearing milkbone underwear!"

Hi Jimmy

Plan looks good to me. “GET ER DONE” No dought in my mind it will turn out great. Keep us posted.

God Bless
tom

-- Mc Bridge Cabinets, Iowa

Your project looks nice, You’ll enjoy working through it. Doing it is sometimes the only way to learn.

-- As iron sharpens iron, so one man sharpens another. (Proverbs 27:17)

Jimmy,
I would change the back panel to at least 1/4 inch. 1/8 seems much too light to me. I use 1/2 inch back panels on my cabinets because I consider them an integral part of the construction. I then get cussed because the cabinets won’t “rack”. You should make your dove tails with one pass with a straight bit and then one or two passes with a dovetail bit. n
There is a very good adjustable jig for cutting dados with a hand held router. I use one and they really work. Be sure to set up test pieces to check your set ups. I hope this will ease things a bit. I agree with Dan about adding the kick board. You can do it, we will watch. LOL

-- Thos. Angle, Owyhee Design, Oregon

BEST of Luck – well thought out project, most important thing! Keep your wife happy and impressed this way she is willing to ok the purchase of your next tool !

-- Bill - - Ad-Marketing Guy, Ramsey NJ

1. Welcome to LJ. Glad to see that you decided to join
2. an excellent blog. I enjoyed every entertaining and informative word
3. wow.. quite the project. Sure doesn’t sound like a “beginner” project.
4. You already have a Challenge Entry! Cool.

I’m looking forward to watching the progress of this project coming to life – and to more blogs.

-- "Functional WoodArt" by Debbie, Canada (http://www.execulink.com/~yohan)

looks like a good one. Cant wait to see the real one.

-- making sawdust....

Thanks all for the support. Thos, I planed to use a piece of hard board or ply to setup the dados and dovetails so the position wil match on both sides, starting at the top and cutting down to fit each level. I guess for the tapered dovetails I can just shim this “jig”. I had also planned to use a straight bit for the “hogging” of the waste on the dovetails. If I plan on a 14 degree 1/2” dovetaile big set to 3/8 inch height, what size straight should I use? I am sure I could figure it out but I am also sure you already know. I am working on the Kick board now in Sketchup. As far as MsDebbieP’s comment about it being a beginner project, I know it is not. My only two saving graces are the fact that it is pine so I can afford a few mistakes and allot of scrap to set things up, and the wonderful help and ideas I am sure I will get from my father and the great people here at LJ. Glad y’alll enjoyed the blog, I will try my best to ballance work and passion (as I am sure most have to do) and keep it up. One question, is the average toe kick 3 or 4 inches? I was thinking more like 3.

-- Jimmy, Oklahoma "It's a dog-eat-dog world, and I'm wearing milkbone underwear!"

Well here is the added toe kick. Real basic but I like it.

-- Jimmy, Oklahoma "It's a dog-eat-dog world, and I'm wearing milkbone underwear!"

I think 3 would work fine if it’s flush with the front face.

And, yeah, pine lets you get away with a lot. A good portion of my learning recently has been about how taking a mallet to it just doesn’t work with a harder wood. Where pine compresses and makes a night tight joint, lyptus shatters and splinters.

-- Dan Lyke, Petaluma California, http://www.flutterby.net/User:DanLyke