This is where I started tonight ā I attached the back to the seat of the chair.
This is what it looks like when everything underneath is attached ā front, back and side stretchers.
Next on the list is the arms. I placed them up against the chair to see what it will look like.
I then cut the end of both arms to match with the uprights. The next step is to remove the area that I have marked in red. The area to be removed would taper into the front curve.
Iām debating a 45 degree router bit, make a jig for the bandsaw or use a spokesheve (I would have to go buy one). Any suggestions?
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8 comments so far
Russel
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1229 posts in 424 days
posted 86 days ago
I’d go with the router or bandsaw. But that’s because the accuracy of my hand tool work leaves something to be desired (that would quality).
It’s coming along really well. I’m looking forward to the finished product. Should be impressive.
-- When you give someone a chance it may well be their last.
trifern
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4051 posts in 252 days
posted 86 days ago
Looking good Zuki. I like the combination of different tools. The spokeshave gives it that hand worked detail that power tools can’t match. I look forward to seeing more.
-- Depend on the rabbit's foot if you will, but remember it didn't work for the rabbit.
thetimberkid
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1520 posts in 188 days
posted 85 days ago
Lookiing good!
Thanks for the post
Callum
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Alan Young
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38 posts in 205 days
posted 85 days ago
Zuki,
I see that you have attached the solid wood seat to the framework via some pocket screws. Have considered that the solid wood seat is likely to expand and contract over time? Solid wood panels such as the seat in your chair benefit from the use of clips that allow wood movement and thus prevents cracking..
Alan
Zuki
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855 posts in 562 days
posted 85 days ago
Alan . . . I understand the clip theory for movement. I can’t remember if I seen it here on LJs recently or in PW magazine regading a table top. How would I use it in this application as the seat and framework would have to be solidly connected for safety reasons. The clips would give some movement correct?
I am really curious as I will incorporate it into other chairs . . . once I understand the application.
Tks.
Oh . . . I think I will be using the BS or router.
-- The significant problems we face cannot be solved by the same level of thinking that created them
Alan Young
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38 posts in 205 days
posted 84 days ago
Zuki,
If you have a biscuit joiner- Use that to cut some slots in the side aprons. Then place the clips there.

You can keep the seat attached with the pocket screws in the middle….
The other movement issue concerns the joint of the seat around the back struts. You may consider a gap to allow the seat to move without pressing outward against the back strutts.
Chairs contain huge woodworking challenges. I’m sure you’ve encountered many a chair with loose or broken joints. The stresses they incur from human forece and natural wood movement require a great deal of preventative design thought…..Some of my thoughts on this situation.
Alan
Alan Young
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38 posts in 205 days
posted 84 days ago
The illustrations in my last post don’ t seem to transfer well from Google. They can be seen here:
http://picasaweb.google.com/woodwardwoodworks/ZUKICHAIR
Alan
Zuki
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855 posts in 562 days
posted 84 days ago
Ahhhhhhhhhh . . .
Now I see. Thanks a bunch for the sketch-up . . . it makes perfect sense. Clips on the sides (similar to the table tops that I have seen) and pocket screws in the front and back to hold the seat. I do not have a biscuit joiner, however a router should accomplish he same thing.
I actually have a 1/16 gap around the struts, so that issues should be ok.
I will most cetainly incorporate these aspects into future chairs.
thanks again Alan
-- The significant problems we face cannot be solved by the same level of thinking that created them