I have been looking for a sharpener for a while and came close to coughing up $250 for the Jet clone of the Tormak when the woodworking show was in town last month. I had also seen the Work Sharp on the web. Dan Like had seen one in action and given it his endorsement. There is a video of it on thier web site if your interested in seeing it in action. Wood Magazine has a review of it as well as a video of it in action.
Two weeks ago when I was on my way home from the bay area I stopped in a Rockler store that is along the way an they had a demo model on the shelf. They did not have any in stock. This week I went to the bay area again. I dropped into Rockler and checked to see if they had any in stock. Unfortunately they did not have any, but said that they were expecting some. I put my name on the list (They have been selling lots of them) and dropped back in the next day on my way home.
They did have one for me and I purchased it along with a leather hone and a tool guide used for lathe and carving tools.
The unit and all of its parts were very well packaged. The package contained the following items:
- The Sharpening Machine
- Users Guild
- Assorted Abrasive Disks
- 2 Tempered Glass Wheels
- Slotted Wheel
- Tool Guide
- Crepe Stick

The machine itself is very solid and well made. It has a 1/5 hp motor and rotates at 580 RPM.

The abrasives are adhesive backed. You mount them on each side of the glass plates. This gives you 4 different grits (120, 400, 1000, and 3600) that you can use to hone your tools. They sell a 6000 grit abrasive as an add-on. I will probably purchase some next time I pass by Rockler and try it out. The next part was probably the most difficult part of the entire operation. Getting my finger nail under the plastic backing and it was not really that difficult. You clean the plates with alcohol and then you mount the abrasives on the glass. Basically you bend them into a U shape and match up the center hole.


It was easy to mount all of the abrasives. The only tough part was the 3600 grit plate. I got some bubbles and had to pierce them and roll them out with a dowel. To mount them in the machine they go on a center post with a hand tightened knob. Changeing wheels is a very quick process. You can get any of the grits installed in seconds. I like this feature quite a bit.
The machine is now ready for sharpening.
The first step in the process is to flatten the back of the blade. I started with an old Stanley plane blade and the course wheel. You flatten the back by placing the heel of the blade against the wheel and dropping the blade down onto the wheel. You sharpen a bit and then raise the blade off the wheel to manage the temperature. I immediately felt comfortable with the tool and did not have any trouble with the operation. I quickly moved through the grits and very quickly had the back flattened and polished to a mirror finish. I have been using water stones and this feature alone makes the machine worth owning. Also, when you are using the tool, you can feel the temperature of the blade. It is easy to tell if it is getting warm in any way.
I'm not sure how well you will be able to see these pictures, but they are of the back as I moved through the various grits.




The next step is to hone the bevel. The machine has a unique guide on the side of the machine that is used to grind the bevel. It has a set of stops that allow you to set the angle of the blade. The stops are at 20, 25, 30, and 35 degrees. They are easy to set. The guide also has an abrasive strip on it that is used to remove the burr. There is a small window above the switch that indicates the bevel angle setting.

Basically, you take the blade and set it in the guide and push the blade against the wheel. You hold the blade against the wheel for 1-2 seconds and pull it down into the guide a minimum of 1". This removes any burr on the back side. After a trying it a few times, it was easy to get a feel for it.

You progress through all 4 grits and end up with a nice sharp blade.




The users manual indicated that you can use the guide to create a micro-bevel and it does have a skew adjustment. Cambers could be created free hand using the tool guide or you could go back to waterstones. The guide is limited to 2" in width, which means that larger plane irons cannot be honed using the guide. This eliminates planes such as the 4 1/2, 5 1/2 and 6-8. You can still flaten the back on these blades and also could hone them free hand on top of the machine.
I also purchased the leather honing wheel. You first coat it with mineral oil to help the wheel take the combound.

I also purchased a tool guide accessory for use with carving and lathe tools. I have not tried it yet.

Here it is mounted on the side. It can also be mounted on top where the other tool guide is located.

I sharpened the plane blade for my #3. This blade has an 1892 patent date on it and the back had some irregular wear. I could not imagine how long it would have take me to flatten the back using water stones. Even with this, it took me less than twenty minute start to finish to sharpen the blade. This included flattening the back (the majority of the time), re-establishing a primary bevel and taking it through all grits. I also needed to tune the chipbreaker. I found the tool extreamly useful for this operation. I was able to have fine control of the material being taken off and got great results. I tuned both the surface that mates with the plane blade and smoothed out the face of the chipbreaker. Here is a picture of the results.

Hopefully they will come out with an 8" model that will allow for the larger plane blades to be sharpened in the guide system.
-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov























37 comments so far
David
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1818 posts in 620 days
posted 499 days ago
Wayne -
Thanks for posting this well written review. I ahave been looking at the same system – this will give me a lot more confidence when I make a purchase.
-- http://foldingrule.blogspot.com
WayneC
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5685 posts in 578 days
posted 499 days ago
If your using chisels or planes in your work, I would buy one in a minute. I have not tried to sharpen any carving or lathe tools yet.
-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov
Karson
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12887 posts in 881 days
posted 499 days ago
Thanks for the review.
-- Karson Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com
foneman
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16 posts in 575 days
posted 499 days ago
Wayne,
Thanks for taking the time to post this review. Sure wish it would sharpen the plane blades larger than 2”, but maybe it is just as easy on the top side.
Are there any other accessories you would recommend buying other than the leather plate? Does the paper last very long or should a person order additional sheets from the start?
Thanks again!
John
WayneC
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5685 posts in 578 days
posted 499 days ago
Your welcome John. It came with quite a few abrasive sheets. One of the selling points they list on the web is that the abrasives are commonly available and you do not have to use their product. I have purchased a tool guide and have not been able to check it out yet. So, I’ll stay nuteral on it. I may buy an extra glass wheel and get the 6000 grit paper. I may be able to mount the 6000 grit abrasive on the underside of the leather wheel and as such may not need another glass wheel. I’ve only sharpened a few blades so far. I will work over a bunch of chisels tomorrow and get a feel for how long it lasts. Also, it comes with a Crepe Stick which is used to clean the wheels. This seemed to work real well.
-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov
foneman
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16 posts in 575 days
posted 499 days ago
I have been using this 15 micron film that works wonders on my blades after the initial grind. The stuff cuts fast and once worn seems to give a finer finish than initially. I then go to the green rouge for a real sharp edge. The idea of using the Work Sharp with this paper and rouge would speed the process up tremendously.
Here is where I got the 15 micron film. It looks like shipping costs have gone up considerably since I bought it.
WayneC
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5685 posts in 578 days
posted 499 days ago
Almost looks like they are making their money on Shipping and Handling. It costs more to ship it than buy it..
The 15 micron paper is about 1200 grit according to the chart in the user’s guide. The 6000 grit abrasive they sell is 2 micron.
-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov
WayneC
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5685 posts in 578 days
posted 499 days ago
Also, I have added more text and photos. I’m finished with this post…
-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov
foneman
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16 posts in 575 days
posted 499 days ago
I have some 1/2 micron diamond paste that I have not tried yet. It might cut pretty fast, but not sure what type of platter you could put it on. Not sure it would work on the leather. I might have to try it on a scap piece I have in the shop.
John
WayneC
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5685 posts in 578 days
posted 499 days ago
Wow. That is pretty fine.
-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov
foneman
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16 posts in 575 days
posted 499 days ago
Does it look like it would be possible for Work Sharp to come out with a modified tool guide that would handle the larger blades?
WayneC
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5685 posts in 578 days
posted 499 days ago
Not from below. You can do it by hand from above. There is a bar on the top that can be used. I will try one out tomorrow. I’m thinking I will stay with waterstones for the bevel sharpening on the larger blades, but will use this for lapping the back. That is the time consuming part anyway. You can see the bar in the picture of the machine with the blue disk installed.
-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov
foneman
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16 posts in 575 days
posted 499 days ago
Does the tool guide you mentioned previously work in conjuction with the bar? (edit: I went back and reread your posts again and can see that the tool guide is independent from the tool bar)
Thanks for all the information!
John
WayneC
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5685 posts in 578 days
posted 499 days ago
It mounts where the Bar is mounted. It can be mounted above and below the machine. The instructions say. Top Mount for sharpening wider chisels, plane irons, spoke shaves, double-bevel tools. Bottom Mount for sharpening with slotted see-through wheel. The guide cost about $10. The leather wheel was about $30.
-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov
Bob Babcock
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1807 posts in 567 days
posted 497 days ago
Good review Wayne…sounds like a winner. HHmmm….what can I convince my wife that we need that would require the Worksharp?
-- Bob, Carver Massachusetts, Sawdust Maker http://www.capecodbaychallenge.org
WayneC
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5685 posts in 578 days
posted 497 days ago
I tried the kitchen knife story and she would have nothing to do with it. I was looking at a Tormak at the time. She just shook her head when she saw the Work Sharp on the bench and went to the outlet stores with my daughter.
-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov
mot
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4837 posts in 517 days
posted 497 days ago
That’s a great review of a really great tool, Wayne! Thanks for taking the time to do that. It looks like a winner!
-- You can discover more about a person in an hour of play than in a year of conversation. (Plato)
tracker
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15 posts in 614 days
posted 487 days ago
Thanks for the review! I got a Rockler gift card for my BDay and might use it on that!
-- Scott - Dallas, Texas
WayneC
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5685 posts in 578 days
posted 482 days ago
Your welcome. Some additional information
I’ve now had to change the sandpaper. I’ve found if it is grinding slow then it is time to change paper. Also, I’m going to pick up the course paper set and an extra glass plate for when I need to regrind a bevel or have a back that need a fair amount of work to be ground flat.
Also a bunch of dust accumulates under the wheel. I’m now using compressed air to blow the machine off after each use.
-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov
Greg3G
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638 posts in 566 days
posted 479 days ago
Wayne, I am about to purchase this system myself. I was wondering if you have used the see through plate yet? I was under the impression that this was the recommended way to sharpen curved tools, seems to be simular to the Tool Jewel system. It sounds as if you are very pleased with the system. I will probably order it in the next week or so.
-- Greg - Charles Town, WV
WayneC
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5685 posts in 578 days
posted 479 days ago
I have not tried the see through plate yet. I will have to add that to my to do lisf for this weekend. I was in rockler and got an extra glass plate and all three of the additional abrasive kits. I am finding that the 120 grit is to fine if you need to regrind something. You tend to go through the paper too fast.
-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov
WeeWilly
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16 posts in 548 days
posted 457 days ago
I have been looking for a new sharpening tool for my lathe tools. This WorkSharpTool seems like it should be a great fit for my needs. National Tool + Equipment has an online price of $ 179.00…..seems pretty attractive for this type of sharpener…as Tormeks’ sell for near $ 300.00 . Thanks for the review…...it helps to make up ones mind when others have used them and write favorable reviews.
-- WeeWilly
PanamaJack
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4452 posts in 558 days
posted 423 days ago
Sold me on it Wayne!
-- Carpe Lignum - Seize The Wood,
Bob #2
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1942 posts in 502 days
posted 403 days ago
Thanks for the posting Wayne.
I was at an impasse with the whole idea of power sharpeneing because of the expense to get a complete system.
Funny how you get a bad taste for somelthing then have trouble even looking at similar products. At lest for me.
Bob
-- A mind, like a home, is furnished by its owner
WayneC
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5685 posts in 578 days
posted 403 days ago
In general I have found it works well. Tom (Mot) reivewed the Veritas version of this in his blog as well. That one has a bigger wheel and will support wider blades.
The only issue I have with the worksharp is it cannot sharpen blades over 2” in width using its guide system. So it will not work for larger bench plane blades (4 1/2, 5 1/2, 6, 7, and 8). Although it still allows you to flatten the back of these blades which is where a lot of the effort goes IMHO.
-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov
scottb
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2940 posts in 808 days
posted 403 days ago
well, so far I’ve read nothing bad about this sharpening system. The only additional comments involve buying extra glass plates so as not to have to peel off any of the paper during the process (and having to throw it out). Thanks for the review. This is definately on my wish list now!...
-- I am always doing what I cannot do yet, in order to learn how to do it. - Vincent Van Gogh -- http://snbcreative.wordpress.com/
WayneC
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5685 posts in 578 days
posted 403 days ago
Your welcome Scott. I did get the extra wheels and also additional grits.
-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov
TomR
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7 posts in 384 days
posted 371 days ago
I’m sitting here at the computer looking at the glass disks and the abrasives that go on the Work Sharp. To my right is the Fellows/Neato jig I use to put the labels on my CD’s & DVD’s. I’ve gotta wonder if that wouldn’t work or maybe need a small modifiction to do the job faster and easier. What do you think?
It also seems like you prefer the Work Sharp to the Veritas if for no other reason that cost. Did I understand that correctly? Thank you for the effort you’ve put into this topic, and for sharing.
-- Amateurs...built the ark : Professionals....built the Titanic !
WayneC
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5685 posts in 578 days
posted 371 days ago
The big benefit for the worksharp is the under plate guide that allows you to sharpen blades at specific angles. It is dead simple and hard to mess up. The real issue is that it is limited to 2” blades which means that some plane blades are not supported.
If your sharpening on top, there is a bar that allows you to do it free hand. They do provide a bar to support it but it is not as easy. The Veritas system has an 8” wheel and guides that allow you to sharpen repeatably from above. Tom (Mot) has done a video review of this system. It does cost about $200 more than the WorkSharp. Fine Woodworking tool guides rated this as the top sharpener in their latest tool review magazine (on sale now). For some reason WorkSharp was not in the review.
As far as the CD labeler, I’m not sure if it would work as well. The worksharp glass is very stable and you can put abrasives on both sides. This makes changing grits a 15 second operation.
-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov
TomR
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7 posts in 384 days
posted 370 days ago
All I was looking at was centering the abrasives on the glass slabs and getting them applied without getting any bubbles under the paper. With the CD labels yo don’t get a second chance, but maybe it’s not such a good idea. Thanks for the reply.
-- Amateurs...built the ark : Professionals....built the Titanic !
WayneC
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5685 posts in 578 days
posted 370 days ago
Tom, perhaps on the high level grits it would help. They are tough to get on without bubbles.
-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov
Mark
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307 posts in 614 days
posted 370 days ago
I ordered one from Rockler and it arrived by UPS last night. Can’t wait to set it up especially after reading the above entries.
-- Mark
Hawgnutz
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495 posts in 557 days
posted 306 days ago
The date of this post is 12-5-07. I have contacted Work Sharp and they have informed me that they will provide a jig early in 2008 that will allow the sharpening of plane irons larger than 2 inches. Right now, Rockler has the Work Sharp 3000 on special: You get the system for $200, plus an extra glass wheel, PLUS a $20 Rockler gift card, to boot. All this with FREE shipping for us who aren’t lucky enough to have a Rockler close at hand. I think I will use the extra glass wheel to affix a piece of leather to make a honing wheel like they offer for $30!
I get frustrated with having to carry different tools to sharpen my tools. (I use a crutch in one hand, so that leaves me 1 arm/hand to carry things with.) With ONE tool to sharpen my tools, the decision is easy for me. I will order it this week!
God Bless,
Hawg
-- Saving barnwood from the scrapyards
WayneC
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5685 posts in 578 days
posted 305 days ago
Sounds great Hawg. I wil have to check out the new Jig.
-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov
jaws
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4 posts in 303 days
posted 303 days ago
Great discussion on this nifty sharpener. I have owned the mfr’s Drill Doctor several years, which has seen a LOT of use both by me and friends, so I was already favorably disposed.
First a question – where did you find the Tool Guide accessory shown under-mounted on the back of the unit? I can’t seem to locate it on the web. It looks like it might be good for handling wider and skewed blades with readily repeatable results. TIA.
Just acquired one after seeing it at Woodcraft. For years I have used water stones and a Makita water stone sharpener. I bought this unit with a view to sharpening narrow chisels as they have always been a challenge for me and always needed for use. They fit nicely in the guide. My maiden voyage was a nasty old 3/4” chisel that seriously needed flattening and reshaping. As with any tool it took a little while to get acquainted, but proved to flatten, put a new bevel and finish off the edge within 15 minutes. Actually, unpacking through finishing this chisel took maybe an hour. I kinda lost track of time tonight as I went scrounging for various blades that needed a lot of work. FWIW, I had no problems applying the PSA sanding disks to the glass – I followed the hint in the manual bowing the sandpaper down, lining up the hole carefully and kind of unrolling each half onto the glass – no bubbles. My problems were with the bevel adjusting mechanism which was not easy to adjust, and came off at one point. As best i can tell the left side of the heat exchange blade bed was not anchored – in all fairness, this could easily have been my ham fisted attempts to adjust the thing before deciding to RTFM (Read The Flippin’ Manual).
My observations: Overall I too would recommend this tool, especially for novices. It’s very quick from unpacking to use if one has any experience with powered sharpening. And it is quite compact. Bolting it down is not necessary for use, BUT a very wise safety precaution. As with any dry grinder, it generates sparks with coarser grits, albeit a fairly small amount, which still can ignite flammables within close proximity – DAMHIKT (Don’t Ask Me How I Know This). As with this company’s Drill Doctor sharpeners, this is an extremely well conceived and executed product. Well done!
Pros: It’s really quite simple to set up and use. For what may seem to some a slow speed for a grinder, it removes material very quickly. The preset angles are a very good feature. Extremely satisfactory edges produced with items included in the box (120, 400, 1000, 3600 grits on 2 glass disks sufficient for restoring a garage sale blade with several small chips in edge and unflattened back).
Cons: A dust extraction attachment would be GREATLY appreciated. While there’s not wet mess, there is a lot of metal filings removed, which is messy and I’d prefer not to have it airborne as my shop is in the house. The mechanism for adjusting the bevel can be a little temperamental, Not much else really.
Whine (no cheese): Despite the small machine size, a foot pedal should be added for better control for freehand sharpening – especially flattening blade backs.
-- Joe, Oakland, CA
rikkor
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7591 posts in 355 days
posted 303 days ago
I got one a couple of weeks ago and consider it one of my better purchases. I went after a gnarly old “throw-away” 3/4 inch chisel and was trimming hair in less than a half an hour.
-- Maplewood, MN
WayneC
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5685 posts in 578 days
posted 296 days ago
I got the guide at Rockler at the time I purchased the machine. I did not see any current info on their web site. Perhaps they discontinued it.
-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov