Lesson's Learned: By Project at LumberJocks.com

Shop Built Hand Tools #4: Krenov Plane

USCJeff — Thu, 12 Jun 2008 05:10:04 GMT

I just finished posting my latest plane attempt. It was another rewarding process. I learn a little more about the mechanics involved with each attempt. One thing I didn’t realize, was that I really got the chance to practice woodworking with extremely strict tolerances. A slightly thin tenon is one thing, a slightly slanted iron ramp is another. I’ve also appreciated the need for sharp cutting edges. I’m learning that I don’t want to stick with the “Scary Sharp” system forever. It works, it just works slowly. I’m really wanting a WorkSharp. At $200, it seems to be a great compromise between value and quality. More time cutting wood, less time sharpening.

Shop Built Hand Tools #3: My favorite Sanding Block

USCJeff — Thu, 29 May 2008 14:14:28 GMT

I have a few sanding blocks, but this one gets the most use. Design is a take off of a Wood Magazine article. The pictures are telling as to the construction. The only hidden detail is there is a plugged hole under the felt. It is for the screw that is epoxied to the bottom that attaches to the wingnut. I chose hardwood scraps that I had on hand. They consist of cherry and two different walnut species. The felt was a self adhesive scrap left over from a jewelry box project. It measures about 4×3”. The plastic wingnut is loosened to raise the top to change paper. It is tightened to clamp it. The felt helps by allowing a little give when flattening a board. Cork could serve the same purpose if that’s what’s on hand. After a while using it, I used a core box bit to route the grooves for my fingers. Makes it quite a bit more ergonomic. Simple thing, but it sees a lot of use.

Shop Built Hand Tools #2: Router Plane

USCJeff — Thu, 29 May 2008 14:06:36 GMT

I’ll keep this brief as I gave a full account in the project section. I wanted to have it within this series as well, however as it is applicable.

I’d suggest this to anyone that will not be using this tool on a daily basis. It does a good job leveling out dadoes and grooves. It does a fair job with hinge mortising as well, but I still prefer a laminate router and light chiseling for this application. Check out the project link for construction details and shots.

Shop Built Hand Tools #1: Block Plane Trial

USCJeff — Fri, 23 May 2008 14:25:14 GMT

I recently posted a project of my first attempt at a plane. I was very happy with the outcome, both appearance and function. After putting it to work on scraps and such to give it a real trial, I’ve found some fatal flaws. I initially blamed the the original designer, which was submitted to Wood Magazine. I then decided that I took too many liberties and caused the error. The big problem is the wedge and rod that secures the iron. The plane sides are not quite .25”. I gave the wedge a a moderate tap and one side split by the wedge rod. I epoxied it back and it happened on the other side a day later. I’m debating between laminating the sides thicker or letting it look pretty on a shelf and starting over. The wedge really doesn’t hold the iron very well. The iron backs out after several swipes. I think the rod might be too far back on the iron. I can’t be certain, but maybe the wedge would hold better if the pressure was closer to the point of force. Any thoughts? All my metal planes have cap screws or such to hold the iron. Wooden planes don’t for the most part, based on what I’ve seen.

Got some inspiration. Realize how little I know.

USCJeff — Sun, 24 Feb 2008 01:21:55 GMT

This past Christmas my In-Laws got my wife and I as well as my brother and sister-in-law gift certificates to go to the Biltmore Estate. If you’re unfamiliar, it is the largest private estate in the US since Hearst’s Castle now belongs to the city of San Fancisco. I’ve now been able to see both William Hearst’s and George Vanderbilt’s (Biltmore) awesome visions. The trip to Hearst’s Castle was a few years before I got into the hobby, so it didn’t have the same impact. It was vastly larger however. There were no corners cut at Biltmore though. The woodworking was amazing. The home is 175,000 square feet with 60 bedrooms and 43 baths. Not to mention one of the oldest bowling alleys in the country. All of the molding and trim was quartersawn oak and huge! All of the furniture was detailed in every aspect. It would take me a life time to replicate any one piece assuming I could pull it off. There were several doors that were 8” thick solid oak. One was a pocket door that was 2 stories tall that operated on a pulley system. His home actually had electricity in the early 1900’s. I realize that I know little about this hobby but now have some amazing work to aspire to. Worth the trip if anyone is around the NC area.

BandSaw Boxes - First Attempt #1: Preparing Box Blank

USCJeff — Mon, 31 Dec 2007 02:54:29 GMT

I have just begun getting ready to start a box project. I’ve wanted to give it a shot since getting my Rikon Band Saw a few months back. There have been dozens of designs posted by other LJ’s, and they all have looked very cool and unique. I think it was Betsy who gave away a box to her boss. I like the design and it doesn’t seem as difficult (just as attractive though) as some. I’m going to give her design a shot. Here is the blank I made from Walnut. It’s about 10” L, 4” W, and 4” H.

Cutting Boards - Christmas 07 #2: Procrastination Hurts

USCJeff — Mon, 31 Dec 2007 02:39:57 GMT

I had to spend some serious shop time the week before the holidays as I greatly underestimated the time needed. The gifts got their last coat only 4 hours before giving them away. Didn’t even wrap them as I’m betting a curing board with fumes most likely shouldn’t be sealed by wrapping paper. I didn’t get a chance to photo the post-finish boards as I was scrambling to finish. I will have to make a point to allow more time for errors and interruptions in the future.

Cutting Boards - Christmas 07 #1: Cutting Board Progress

USCJeff — Fri, 21 Dec 2007 07:35:06 GMT

I am making 4 cutting boards for gifts. I made each unique. The project seemed easy, but I learned that my tools needed some tuning to get the flush fits. They leave little room for error.

From top left giong clockwise, Purple Heart and Maple, White Oak and Walnut, Maple on Walnut, and Cherry and Walnut

Finishing Wisdom #3: Finishing Wisdom #3 - Trial and Error

USCJeff — Fri, 21 Dec 2007 07:28:57 GMT

In my ongoing pursuit of trying to learn how to finish in a manner that doesn’t remind me of my 2 year old’s coloring, I’ve done some more experimenting. I bought a few dozen board feet of white oak for no particular project. I decided to play around and use several finishing methods to see the outcome. I cut some corners here and there as didn’t sand the way I would if it was a real project, but the results were still a decent representation of the methods.

Finishes Used:

Prep Note: Sanded to 150 and applied wood conditioner for all

~Minwax OB Ebony (as well as – 2:1 Mineral Spirits to Stain Washcoat)
~Minwax OB Sierra (as well as – 2:1 Mineral Spirits to Stain Washcoat)
~General Finish H2O Black Cherry
~Minwax Gel Walnut
~Antique Danish Oil (Watco I think)
~BLO
~Watco Dark Walnut Danish Oil

Impressions:

Both Oil Based Minwax Stains were a little blotchy and seemed to have a dull sheen to them when used in full strength. When I thinned them for a washcoat trial, I really liked the way they looked. It eliminated the blotches and showed off the grain. This was a confirmation on the many tips I’ve read that state multiple thin coats works better than a few thick ones. However, the results were not as nice as the H2O stain discussed below.

I loved the simplicity and result of the H2O General Stain. The black cherry resembled the Minwax Sierra color. The finish was even and didn’t create unwanted contrasts between the grain and wood or the sap and heartwood. Very little odor, amazing recoat time, and not drastically more expensive than the oil based equivalent. It worked well enough that I will definitely give it more trials on other species. Possibly a go-to finish.

The Gel Stain was nice. I didn’t care for the Walnut on White Oak, but it was very even and blended well with the wood. I applied it with the board in a vertical position to test the “no drip/run” claims. Worked as claimed. Still not sold, but I am told it works well on some blotch prone species such as pine. (Note – I applied it to construction grade pine glued up panel and still wasn’t thrilled)

The BLO, did what BLO always does. Mostly clear, and amplifies the natural wood properties. Much faster cure time than tung oils I’ve used in the past.

Both Danish Oils worked well. The Walnut colored oil gradually added color with each coat. This allows for better control of the end result. The clear oil slightly darkened the wood which highlights both the wood and any imperfections.

Pics
General H2O Bl Cherry

Minwax Ebony OB Wash Coat

Comparing Walnut Gel to Real Thing

Sierra Wash

Finishing Wisdom #2: Long awaited update

USCJeff — Mon, 15 Oct 2007 05:02:31 GMT

It’s been a while since I’ve put some things I’ve learned in writing. I like the idea of blogs as a type of woodworking journal. It seems I see a lot of cool tricks and tips in articles and forget them pretty quickly. I just got to the point in my woodworking self-education that I now understand that finishing is really what makes the difference b/w good projects and great projects. I’ve done a ton of experimenting over the last few weeks and had a wide range of results. Here are a few of my conlusions:

Working with Open Pored Wood (namely Walnut):

• There is no need to use grain filler when using a stain that absorbs into the wood. Rather than using the grain filler, I can flood the board with the stain and use wet/dry sandpaper to make a saw dust / stain mixture. Let this soak in and wipe off excess. Grain is filled.

Other things:

• Wax offers next to no protection compared to Poly. Waxing also requires re-waxing faster than other top coats.
• When use wax, less is best. A cheesecloth “pouch” with a dab of wax distributes it pretty evenly.
• Minwax Polyshades works on top of old stains when refinishing. Takes a coat or two more, but anything to avoid sanding is great in my book.
• Supplies every shop should have on hand: Mineral Spirits, Thinners (laquer, paint, etc. .), B.L.O., Naptha, Turpentine, Tung Oil, and Wood Conditioner to name a few.
• Rubbing finishes almost always provides better results faster vs. brushing.