LumberJocks

Standup Paddleboard Paddles #6: Paddles #3 and 4 and I finally get to use my Dowelmax

Blog entry by Bob Babcock posted 281 days ago 345 reads 0 times favorited 10 comments Add to Favorites
« Part 5: Time for the water. Part 6 of Standup Paddleboard Paddles series no next part

I’ve decided I really like making paddles. Very creative outlet and not only is it artistically challenging but the dynamics of the blade design are really interesting as well.

I’ve got 5 paddles in the works at the moment but #3 is different from my earlier ones. Straight shaft, teardrop, no laminations, dovetail. I added some geometric woodburning, somewhat primitive looking. It also has a channel, kind of the reverse of a dihedral feeding into the dovetail.

Paddle #3

I put in 8 3/8” dowels for strength along the blades.
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The Dowelmax is awesome. This is just the most basic of uses for it but it made perfect indexing easy. I can’t wait to test it out on some more complex geometry.
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Glued and clamped with mahogany banding.
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Handle glued up
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Primitive shaft grip
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Blade graphic
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Channel and dovetail
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I need to shape the handle and I plan on glassing the shaft. The blade will just get epoxy. Then the whole thing a marine varnish for UV protection..

Paddle # 4

Paddle #4 is a 5 strip cedar and 1 strip mahogany laminated shaft with a 12 deg bend at the blade. The teardrop blade is poplar. I’ve removed a lot more material from this one and it’s the lightest by far. This one is intended to be my surfing paddle. I’ve built in a slight concave to the face of the blade to catch the water more (at least that’s the idea). I’m testing a lot of blade face shapes. I want this light, fast and able to accelerate the board quickly for catching waves.

It has a nice flex but is still plenty strong. I pulled and pushed on it very hard to see how it will stand up. Well beyond what it normally be pushed to on the waves. I figured it would be better to know how tough it is before I bother doing any epoxy and glassing.

I still have the handle to do and the finishing work but I think I’m really going to like this one. Not only the performance but looks as well. I haven’t decided on any woodburning yet.

It would be even lighter done all in cedar. That’s the plan for my wifes which will be #6

Slightly concave blade face
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I put a coat of epoxy on the back of the blade since I had some left over from gluing the handle.
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-- Bob, Carver Massachusetts, Sawdust Maker http://www.capecodbaychallenge.org

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Bob Babcock

1811 posts in 537 days


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10 comments so far

View YooperCasey's profile

YooperCasey

58 posts in 284 days


posted 281 days ago

Very nice Bob! I really like how the laminations work with the grain popping out next to the burnt in art. Wall hangers or to be used?

-- Casey, Engineer, Escanaba, MI

View mot's profile

mot

4839 posts in 487 days


posted 281 days ago

Great, Don! I’m glad you got to use Dowelmax!

-- You can discover more about a person in an hour of play than in a year of conversation. (Plato)

View Bob #2's profile

Bob #2

1822 posts in 472 days


posted 281 days ago

Bob , you’ve got a knack for these products. Stay with it, I enjoy your prespective on decoratiing them too.
Very inspirational.
Bob

-- A mind, like a home, is furnished by its owner

View DAN's profile

DAN

2906 posts in 434 days


posted 281 days ago

Very nice work. Looks like a fun way to make sawdust ! do you use a stationary belt sander to form the contours?

-- ..... art for lifes sake

View Thos. Angle's profile

Thos. Angle

3244 posts in 413 days


posted 281 days ago

These are really unique, Bob. I especially like the way you are using the wood burning to accent your work. I know a little about canoe paddles but not a thing about these except you are making some very good ones.

-- Thos. Angle, Owyhee Design, Oregon

View Bob Babcock's profile

Bob Babcock

1811 posts in 537 days


posted 281 days ago

Thanks all.

I use my drawknife to do the rough shaping and a spokeshave to get it closer. I then use a hand held belt sander and rasps to get the final shape and smooth it with a ROS to 120. I leave it a liitle rough to give the epoxy something to grab. It soaks in about 1/64th. I usually do 3 coats epoxy and then 2 of a good marine spar varnish. A very tough finish. These are likely to get banged around on the rocks occasionally.

-- Bob, Carver Massachusetts, Sawdust Maker http://www.capecodbaychallenge.org

View David's profile

David

1812 posts in 590 days


posted 281 days ago

Bob -

Excellent entry. Very interesting. I think you have found a niche! I suspect these are going to be very popular and highly sought after among the stand up paddling community.

David

-- http://foldingrule.blogspot.com

View MsDebbieP's profile

MsDebbieP

11646 posts in 611 days


posted 280 days ago

awesome.. and yes, it’s fun to “hear” you light up about this new venture.

and the DowelMax—I was wondering when we were going to hear about your prize!

-- "Functional WoodArt" by Debbie, Canada (http://www.execulink.com/~yohan)

View Andy's profile

Andy

296 posts in 359 days


posted 278 days ago

I love these and will have to try it out.First I need to make a set of oars for my boat,I am still using an old set.

-- " Stubborn tenacity substitutes for natural ability" ANDY

View Dick Cain's profile

Dick Cain

4833 posts in 750 days


posted 269 days ago

I feel kind of ashamed of myself.

I finally took some time, & went through your whole paddle series.

I really like the end products. They keep getting nicer, & well designed.

You have a keen eye for designing.

-- Dick Cain, Hibbing, MN. http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.com/gallery/member.php?uid=3627&protype=1

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