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    <title>Topapilot's Blog at LumberJocks.com</title>
    <link>http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/Topapilot/blog</link>
    <pubDate>Mon, 14 Apr 2008 10:51:57 GMT</pubDate>
    <description></description>
    <item>
      <title>RaeLynn's office #2: Threaded Inserts</title>
      <link>http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/Topapilot/blog/4264</link>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>I had read on the G+G Yahoo group that the handles for the file cabinet should be attached to the draw face with a machine screw into a threaded insert.  My practice attempts looked like this:</p>


	<p><a href="http://www.pbase.com/randr_resort/image/95610075"><img src="http://www.pbase.com/randr_resort/image/95610075.jpg" title="Two broken inserts" alt="Two broken inserts" /></a></p>


	<p>The problem was keeping the insert aligned with the drilled hole.  If it tipped at all, the insert would jam and break.  What worked was to take a long screw, cut the head off, thread on two nuts and the insert and chuck it in the drill press.  Then I could lower it straight into the hole and turn the chuck by hand and it would thread in perfectly.</p>


	<p><a href="http://www.pbase.com/randr_resort/image/95610071"><img src="http://www.pbase.com/randr_resort/image/95610071.jpg" title="Installing inserts using the drill press" alt="Installing inserts using the drill press" /></a></p>


	<p>Just be sure not to turn on the drill press!!!</p>]]>
      </description>
      <pubDate>Mon, 14 Apr 2008 10:51:57 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/Topapilot/blog/4264</guid>
      <author>Topapilot</author>
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      <title>RaeLynn's office #1: Start in the middle - The file cabinet</title>
      <link>http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/Topapilot/blog/4178</link>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>Pictures, projects, and pictures of projects; my favorite thing about Lumberjocks.  Time for me to leap into the new millenium and start a project blog with pictures.</p>


	<p>My wife works from home, and needed a work area for both her computer and her writing.  She looked at catalogs and in stores and decided on an open work table with return; essentially an L-shaped computer desk with the space underneath open to make it easy to move from side to side.  I started late in the fall, and finished the day after Christmas.  Later that day it was in place and covered in &#8220;stuff&#8221;, so no pictures, but I&#8217;ll get some this weekend.  It&#8217;s constructed of oak and oak ply for the legs and sides, and the top is a walnut field with an oak boarder and breadboard ends.</p>


	<p>It wasn&#8217;t long after that she decided she needed draws to store stuff in, so I started on a file cabinet to match.  To add some interest I used a G+G detail on the legs:<br /><a href="http://www.pbase.com/randr_resort/image/89265196"><img src="http://www.pbase.com/randr_resort/image/89265196.jpg" title="Blacker leg indent and grove for side panel" alt="Blacker leg indent and grove for side panel" /></a></p>


	<p>The desk design has sides that don&#8217;t come all the way to the floor, so I did the same thing for the file cabinet.  Very cleverly I made two left sides (on bench), so I used the test leg from the desk along with a new one to make the new right side.<br /><a href="http://www.pbase.com/randr_resort/image/93684437"><img src="http://www.pbase.com/randr_resort/image/93684437.jpg" title="Three sides for file cabinet..." alt="Three sides for file cabinet..." /></a></p>


	<p>This limited the vertical draw space and has me a bit worried about structural strength as I didn&#8217;t feel I had space for a top streatcher.  To address that I rabbited the bottom of the sides and added a MDF panel.  This makes it much more ridigd, and adds weight to help keep it from tipping if the draw is pulled all the way out.  I may revisit the top streatcher later if I think it&#8217;s necessary.<br /><a href="http://www.pbase.com/randr_resort/image/95378184"><img src="http://www.pbase.com/randr_resort/image/95378184.jpg" title="bare carcase" alt="bare carcase" /></a></p>


	<p>The draw boxes are made from 1/2&#8221; pre-finished birch ply.  Great stuff, and much better than the $100/sheet 3/4&#8221; oak vaneer ply (I&#8217;ll post pics later)<br /><a href="http://www.pbase.com/randr_resort/image/95378503"><img src="http://www.pbase.com/randr_resort/image/95378503.jpg" title="draw box construction" alt="draw box construction" /></a></p>


	<p><a href="http://www.pbase.com/randr_resort/image/95378508"><img src="http://www.pbase.com/randr_resort/image/95378508.jpg" title="Cabinet and boxes" alt="Cabinet and boxes" /></a>
 Test assembly: top draw for pencils, middle for all that stuff that accumulates, bottom for files:<br /><a href="http://www.pbase.com/randr_resort/image/95378511"><img src="http://www.pbase.com/randr_resort/image/95378511.jpg" title="test assembly" alt="test assembly" /></a></p>


	<p>The draw fronts are ply with iron-on edge banding.  I watched the woodwisperer&#8217;s video on edge banding and they came out great.  I will use walnut dowls for the draw handles.  I&#8217;m in the process finishing and hope to have it in place this weekend, so I&#8217;ll have pics of the beginning (desk) as well.<br />Robb</p>]]>
      </description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 09 Apr 2008 16:19:01 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/Topapilot/blog/4178</guid>
      <author>Topapilot</author>
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