Workshop Make-Over #3: Table Saw update: Pt 1

I am very happy with my DELTA – 36-L3B Left-tilt UNISAW – I changed the Motor last year (was a 220 V 60Hz, 3 HP) to a 3 phase, 50Hz, 400V, 4HP Motor, this is documented on my website if you are interested (http://www.poydatjatuolit.fi/index_files/Page1402.htm ). What I was not happy with was the out-feed table and the Table to the Right of the Saw. Both of these products were Delta, but over the last 3 years they have become twisted and warped, to such a point that it was becoming dangerous to use them.

I decided that a new side table that would remain FLAT and true is what I needed – As I also needed an assembly table (NO SPACE) I looked at the idea of combining the two. Thanks to an article on the “The Wood Whisperer” ( http://blip.tv/file/get/TheWoodWhisperer-AssemblyTableTop777.flv ) Mark showed how to make Torsion Box (T-Box) Table top. I knew that T-Boxes were remarkably strong and stable, so I decided to proceed in producing my own Version.

I have decided to replace both the Out-Feed Table and the Table to Right of the saw with T-Boxes. The first to be built will the Table to the Right. I decided to increase the width to 1220mm (4’) and the Length to 2m (76 ¾”)

This shows the level base that all the work is undertake from. I did not have any 4×2s, so I utilized so 5×1 the edges were jointed and then ripped. To keep the boards in place, i just used some off-cuts which are stapled together to make this quite rigid frame.

The base was leveled using a 1.8m spirit level and the Wixey angle gauge. The leveling was undertaken using shims – which were Hot Glued to the frame and the tables. (A sharp tap with a mallet breaks the glue free at the end of the operation)

One of the two skins is placed on top of the frame – as can be seen, it is not very flat.

To overcome several problems, I covered the ply with a plastic sheet (stops the glue from sticking), I staples the sheet through the ply to frame. This held the plastic in Place and flattened the plywood. The photograph also shows all the parts, pre cut before the beginning of the operation.

The Layout and Plan – The material for the outer frame is fir, the matrix inside and the skins are 9.5 mm (3/8”) plywood, the spacing of the matrix is 137mm (5.4”), with an adjustment at one side and one end

Cutting List

The outer frame is assembled, with Glue, Staples and held in place for an hour with clamps and square blocks.

The Matrix is finished – The clamps were used to hold the frame steady – to stop it “creeping” during assembly.

The skin is placed on top the matrix (no glue yet) and the outside of the skin is marked where the staples are going to be placed. I do not have a big dry wall square like Mark, so I used a good old fashioned chalk line.

The skin is removed; a bead of glue is placed on every edge of the matrix. The skin is carefully repositioned aligning the marks you made earlier and stapled together. I use staples instead of brads, as they have a greater holing power, plus you have t chances of getting at least one of the legs into the matrix.

Leave this the first halve to set for an hour and then remove the – half finished T-Box. Remove the plastic sheet and the skin from the base (DO NOT DISTURB the base). Remove any of the stables from the second skin.

Now just repeat what you did earlier to the first skin. I left mine over night to cure fully and then in the morning a used a flush trimming bit in a router to tidy up the sides and ends.

I then dismantled the base and removed the hot glue from the work surfaces with a sharp chisel.

So this is as far as I have got with this part of the Make-over. Friday I hope to have the T-Box fitted to the Table saw, and be starting on the second of my T-Boxes for the out-feed table.

-- Tony - All things are possible, just some things are more difficult than others! - SKYPE: Heron2005 (http://www.poydatjatuolit.fi)