FWW Build Off '08 #4: Wine Rack Installment #4

Well, the rough sanding on the outside is done down to 150 grit. I used a belt sander with medium grit to do the bulk of it then an RO palm sander for the 150. The belt sander is an absolute no no if working on a cedar canoe but on the maple it worked great.

There’s always a few gaps between the planks that have to be filled. I mixed up some filler using white wood glue (dries clear) and maple sanding dust to use as filler. I used epoxy and sanding dust when building the canoe and that worked much better than the glue. I think I’ll switch back. This shows the filler before it’s dry.

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And after it’s sanded.

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Of course, there’s always obstacles. On Sunday my wife took over part of my shop to assemble her new bee hive.

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You may have noticed the blue tape on the mold earlier. The reason I use it is to keep the shell from being glued to the mold. You can see here several spots where it stuck to the tape.

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This is roughly how it will look when done.

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Marking where the gunnels will go.

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The belt sander doesn’t work on the concave inside surface so I had to use the RO sander. That took a while. Here’s a shot of how rough the wood was.

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Here’s where I’m at now. Sanded to 150 inside and out and the base started.

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I want to put a keel on it that wraps from nose to bottom so I had to break down and build a steam box. I built one out of plywood 1’ X 1’ X 8’ but my Coleman stove doesn’t seem to be putting out as well as it used to so I couldn’t make enough steam to do any good. So I made a smaller one out of stove pipe. That seems to be working fairly well. Note the kettle modified with a piece of steel conduit and steel handle.

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Well, only one week to go. There’s still a lot of work to do…

-- Michael R. Harvey - Brewster, NY - RusticElementArt.com - SpaceAware.org - AnConn.com