I was thinking about doing the same, and after his post I checked into the requirements.

This is my existing setup.

It is a Grizzly dust collector with a 2 HP motor. The metal ring in the middle measured 19” across.

I called Grizzly and they have an item called an additional cannister. Not sure if that means you can stack one on top of another or what. But I asked and they said that it would fit my dust collector.

I ordered it. Everything was back ordered with the exception of the plastic bag. Go Figure.

This week this is what I got.

The plastic bag in one shipment. A clamp for the bag in another shipment and the Dust cannister in a third shipment.

The canister cost $150.00 shipping was about 50.00 because of the oversize.

So I took everything apart.

There were no directions because this is an additional canister and I guess that you could look at your old one to see how it fit. So I guessed.

This is what I got in the packages.

The inside of the canister. Note the foam around the inside of the ring.

The canister box also contained two strips of foam rubber.

You can see that the ring has a deeper impression where the band clamp would fit. So I put the smaller piece of form there.

I them put the larger piece over the top of the smaller one and covered more of the ring.

I then set the canister down on top of the modified (with foam) ring. The canister also has a piece of foam already installed in the ring. It fits tight to the metal ring.

The plastic bag was a little oversize (Little!!) So Odie suggested in GaryK’s blog that I visit Big Blue and buy contractor bags. I did that this morning. This bag here is the Grizzly bag.

So I turned it on. The suction increased a lot. So I cleaned up a little from the previous saw cutting.

People also ask if the Cyclone works well. I bought this one on ebay and I screwed it to the metal lid on a trash can.

The picture of the can is what i picked up in 5 minutes around the shop. The shinny spot in the middle is where I rubbed my finger to see how deep it was. It was about 1/2” deep.

This is what was in the bag. Maybe 1/2 a teaspoon.

I’m happy so far and I hope that the dust in the air is cut out.

Lee

We plan at meeting Lee at his shop at 10 am on Sat morning. His address is 146 Hurffville-Crosskeys Rd, Sewell, NJ, 08080

Google map Location of Lee's Shop

Lee’s phone numbers are Cell 267-784-9600, home 856-875-8509

My numbers are home 302-337-0192, cell 302-228-9049, shop 302-956-0450 my cell phone doesn’t work when I’m in the shop. The metal walls kill all of the signal.

Lee’s wife is cooking the food for the get-to-gether. She is asking for a count of how many people are coming.

So please let me know via e-mail, or phone the count of the number of people coming.

Please bring a show-in-tell piece and any jigs that you may have constructed to make the item.

Lee is going to show us some vacuum clamping and veneering, so be prepared to be amazed. This is a carry-over from last year because Lee couldn’t get it to work last year.

If you have a new tool that is a little unique bring it along.

Please let me know if you are able to make it and the counts.

Karson

I’ve cut veneers and thin strips of wood before, but never with a lot of accuracy. The kitchen cabinets that I made in NJ was made with Ambrosia Maple that was sawed into 1/4” slices and sanded to 5.2MM. It was then installed into a metric plywood router bit set for stile and rails.

I wanted to do something with more accuracy. I purchased the Laguna Carbide resaw blade and I’ve very pleased with it.

So I ordered it. This is what arrived.

I cut the straps and found a box that had been opened and then resealed.

This is my bandsaw. A Reliant which is a Tiawan-ese bandsaw. It is like one that Grizzly sold for a while, I bought mine from Woodworkers Warehouse (now out of business). It is an 18” version that I replaced the issued motor with a 3 HP version that I bought at a junk yard for $10.00. It turned out the motor had been under water in a flood. I took it to a motor repair shop to have it reversed in direction and they put in new bearings and baked out all of the water.

That is a chunk of Oak Burl that I cut a piece off for Gary for his wood collection.

The fence that I had was made by a person in Canada. They were being sold at a woodworking show.

I removed the fence.

I opened the box and this is the fence. 31” long. The Aluminum looks like it’s about 1/4” thick. Very heavy.

This is the table mount for the fence system.

This is the hardware for mounting the fence, with the driftmaster parts. The wheel and the spindle cause the fence to swing left to right to account for the blade drift.

This is the underside for the table. There is a 1/2 nut that allows the fence to move with threads or freehand.

The package that arrived was missing some key parts. The fence was made for a Laguna bandsaw and they made a universal mount and their thought was to sell them as extras, but it was decided to include them with the driftmaster. My box didn’t have them.

This is what they look like. Very substantial.

I had to drill two 1/2” holes in my table.

I mounted them on my table.

And then screwed it into the rod.

I then put on the table surface.

I had to align the fence to be 90 deg with the table surface, and get it with a close contact with the table surface.

I picked up a piece of white pine and cut off a slice of wood. That got the piece of wood uniform in thickness.

I then cut two additional slices. These were cut with one revolution of the screw feed which is suppose to be about 70 thousands. The screws feed is metric.

So here is what I found.

My blade is around .049 Thousands and is a carbide toothed bandsaw blade and 1 revolution of the threads is .070 thousands. The blade takes .049 and it leaves .021 thousands of wood slice.

The bottom slice is
Upper left upper center upper right
Lower left lower center lower right
.013 .014 .017
.015 .015 .020

second slice
.025 .023 .021
.022 .021 .022

The thickness of the blank after the first slice
.258 .259 .260
.257 .259 .260

After the second slice
.187 .193 .186
.185 .183 .183

Now the first slice is thinner overall than the second slice because i didn’t remember where the handle was registered so i turned it further for the second slice.

The variation in the thicknesses might be caused by the pressure that I placed on the wood as it was going by the blade. I didn’t have a magnetic pressure block in front of the cut.

I’m very pleased with the cut and the ability to control the thickness.

Basicly if I want a 1/4” slice. I will need to add a .050 for the blade thickness. 4 revolutions of the threads will be .280, so I’ll need about 4 1/4 turns.

Each tick of the crank is .1MM and .004 thou. and a revolution is 1.7MM and .070 Thou.

Other than Martin who was #1, we have Ellen who checks in every so often. Phillip Edwards who is a woodworker in England who make some superb wooden planes. We then have Mark DeCou who is a frequent contributor to this site and if you look at the bottom of the page Mark’s picture is the link to the LJ Store. All of the others that are the early jocks have seen to have disappeared into the “woodwork”.

I can remember signing into sites, posting a question and then forgetting where they were, what they were called. LumberJocks was the same for me, except I remembered the web address. Coming in so early in the evolution of this site, not much was happening. You could check in every couple of days and see the same posts on the first page.

After a few active posters, the site became more active. But for me the first LumberJock Contest was the item that made me more active. There were some very nice items entered into the first contest.

I was blessed that I was able to win the first contest.

The activity here has really expanded. The contests and woodworking challenge that we’ve done in co-operation with some woodworking magazines and also the cross linking with the Woodwhisper has caused the LJ site to become very active.

It has been a great privilege to be a part of this great woodworking site.

Here is the video click on the driftmaster icon.

After you have viewed the video their are other item to press.

You should have Introduction, Installation, Drift angle, and Drift adjustment.

It’s pricy but I was thinking about the Kreg bandsaw fence, this one is $395.00 so it’s over double the Kreg price but has some different features.

Mark Congratulations. We’ve enjoyed you participation and pray that God is watching over you on your business endeavors.

Karson

I assembled it and brought it over to the deck and trimmed up the straight bench and the curved bench so that they fit in the corner of the deck.

I then went and got the trim router with a 1/4” roundover (got to make it kid friendly) and a sander to get rid of the saw marks, saw cuts and roundover where the trim router won’t reach.

I did the edges on both surfaces of the benches and sanded both of them.

Here are the finished benches.

and from the back.

Now she’s asking for a ceiling fan.

Planter boxes next.

I failed to take pictures of the straight bench being made, but, here it is.

The seat is 14 1/2” wide (4 – 1X4’s) The straight bench was designed as 5’ long, but then trimmed to final fitting. So it’s a little longer as sitting here. The legs are 2X4’s 17” long with a 3” rail at top and bottom with 1 1/2” tenons on each rail. So all 28 legs have mortises on each end and 28 rails were made 6” long with a 1 1/2” tenon on each end. The shoulders were cut on the table saw and the tenons were trimmed with the bandsaw. They were glued together with Gorilla Glue. The aprons on the bench were 2X4’s screwed to the legs with 3” screws. The legs on the straight section were 18” apart. Giving 4 legs covering most of the straight section of the bench.

Now on to the curved bench:

I wanted the bench to have the same curve as the deck. Which was 22’ radius. I just layed the board on top of the deck and drew a line to give me the first curve. The seat slats were 1 X 4 on the straight bench but I started with 1 X 6 on the curved bench. The curve turns out to be a 1 1/4” movement in a 4’ section. So with the deck just touching the edge at the 2’ mark the ends are marked at 1 1/4” in. I cut the 8 slates needed for the two curved benches ending up with a curved 1 X 4, really a 1 X 3.5”. The 4 boards ended up being the same as the 14.5” of the straight bench. The curve was cut on the bandsaw.

The aprons on the curved bench were also made curved. I put the appropriate marks on the edge of a 2 X 4 and cut then out. I then glued and screwed them to straight 2 X 4’s

They are then changed placed and you end up with this.

I then started putting the legs in place.

I then carried it to the deck and placed it in position so that I could identify the cut lines.

The piece of the curved apron was cut off and the bench repositioned.

I then layed the curved seat slats on the bench. I knew that I needed some long seat slats and some short seats slate. Here you will notice that I installed and trimmed them in the wrong position.

Easiily fixed. trim another 1 1/2” off the length of the curve bench.

A little clean up.

and

AS of right now they are not screwed to the deck, but they are quite stable because the L sections are screwed together.

1 straight section already made, 1 more curved section to go.

Have a great night. Were ordering Pizza.

So here are the details:

I mentioned earlier, I believe in the first blog of this series that I installed a GFCI circuit breaker in the fuse panel and i was having problems where it kept tripping whenever i put a load on the circuit. Even a load as small as a Dusk to Dawn switch with nothing else.

LumberJock Richard Williams stated that he wished that he was closer so that he could find my problem. Without me paying his plane fare from Las Vegas I did the next best think. I asked him for his phone number so I could call. He replied. I called.

I told him all of the things that I had tried and that had failed. He suggested a couple of things to try. Verfy that the bare ground wire was not touching the white wire anywhere in the circuit. (I didn’t think I had that problem) Replace the buss bar that was in the circuit sub panel. (Mine was very rusty). This discussion was going on in a 3” rain storm, so I was not too interested is stepping outside at that moment.

The next day I was returning home from taking my son to school, and I was running the circuit through my mine. One of the things that Richard has said was that a GFCI breaker is measuring the amount of current that was going through the black (hot) wire and then checking that the reverse of that was going through the neutral wire (white) of the other wave of the alternating current. (These are my words and not necessarly his exact words). I was wondering in my mind about how that was working on the circuit that I had installed.

I then realized that I might have hooked it up incorrectly. (I had never read the instructions, Because I assumed that it was hooked up the same as a regular circuit breaker.) I had hooked up the black wire to the GFCI breaker. I was suppose to also hook up the white wire to another terminal on the GFCI breaker. I had failed to do that. So what was happening was that any load that I put on the black wire was not being offset through the white wire, because I had not attached it to the GFCI breaker.

When I removed the white wire from the buss bar and attached it to the correct terminal on the GFCI breaker, my circuit worked as designed. The Dusk to Dawn switch does not trip it, a light bulb does not trip. (I have not put my finger across the terminal to see if it does trip it. Like a SawStop you hope it works)

Once I got all of the electric wiring problems I screwed down the final two deck boards

I cut the angle off the deck to match the sidewalk around the Solarium.

I measured the curve for the end of the deck. I found that it was a 22’ radius. So I had my wife hold the tape measure and I inscribed the curve with a pencil. I then used my Bosch Jigsaw to cut the curve to the line that I had drawn.

We set up a table and chairs and had supper tonight on the deck. It was chilly but we didn’t care.

The supervisor checking to see if we left any scraps on the deck. (As if anything would get as far as the deck surface when he’s hanging around)

So now on to the benches.

That was something that I forgot, and i was planning to write about when I made the posts and enches.

When I was at the big orange home supply center I saw some new treated wood. It’s by Thompson’s, its called Thompsonized wood

he wood was not the normal green treated wood. It’s more of a natural color wood treatment.

This post is treated wood.

The price is about the same as the green treated wood. In fact when i went into the store to buy it I found that the green pressure treated wood was in the same compartment as the thompsonized wood.

According to the advertisement. Their Southern Pine treated wood is available at Home Depot east of the Rockies, the redwood treated wood is available west of the rockies, and the Jackpine treated wood is available in Canada.

I also found on the web this site. Sounds great. They say its the future of treated wood. Timbersil