My bandsaw is an 18” Taiwan version. Grizzly had a similar version a few years ago.
The saw works great. My first problem is dust collection. It’s a sweep it up off the floor. Have to find something to do for that.
The next problem is when you lay your hand on the right side of the table, it tends to go off of 90 degrees. You can tighten it as much as you want but it still moves.
I took the table top off.
On the right is a bolt that you move up and down to set the table level, but, it doesn’t hold the table.
So I marked around the bolt head to show where to drill.
I drilled a hole and countersunk it.
I reversed the bolt and put on the jam nut and another jam nut and a connector nut. That is used to connect two rods together. My bolt was 3/8×16 threads
I then ran a stove bolt through the table top into the connector nut.

Leveled the table all up.
Nice and tight and it doesn’t move.
Next item of business is mill the slot to 3/4” its now 18MM. and no sliders fit in that slot. I also going to have him mill the hole for the blade guide to about 1” bigger all around
-- Karson Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com






















10 comments so far
oscorner
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4573 posts in 839 days
posted 498 days ago
Nothing like good old American ingenuity, Karson. Great fix! Now, what are you going to do about dust collection? ;^)
-- Jesus is Lord!
Dick, & Barb Cain
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5372 posts in 827 days
posted 498 days ago
You must use yor saw for 90 degree cuts most of the time, so it’s a good remedy.
-- -** You are never to old to set another goal or to dream a new dream ****************** Dick, & Barb Cain, Hibbing, MN. http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.com/gallery/member.php?uid=3627&protype=1
Bob #2
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2055 posts in 549 days
posted 498 days ago
Looks good Karson.
You will be happier with a 19mm (3/4”) slot on the table rather than having to mill down a miter.
Not sure what guide slot you want milled to 1” wider though. ??
The newer saws have a DC collection on the top and bottom of the lower cowlings and the saw still spill some dust.
Bob
-- A mind, like a home, is furnished by its owner
Karson
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13165 posts in 928 days
posted 498 days ago
Bob : I want the circle that goes around the blade to be 1” bigger all around. They say the saw is rated for 3/4” blades, however it has 1 1/4” resaw blade in it now and you can see that the blade almost touches the table and its a bear to put the blade on and off.
I’ve already replaced the 2HP motor to a 3HP motor. I did that when I was resawing for my NJ Kitchen cabinets. I resawed 1 1’8” thick Ambrosia Maple into 4 slices that I then thickness sanded to 5.2 MM and used a metric kitchen cabinet stile and rail set. That way the panels fit great. You can also use those bits for metric 1/4” plywood that is really 5.2mm or sometimes 5MM.
I’m also considering making a riser block. Today I can resaw 10” but with the riser I’ll be able to resaw 16 to 17” wide stock.
If I do that I hope them can lengthen my resaw blade.
-- Karson Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com
Sawdust2
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868 posts in 616 days
posted 498 days ago
A friend of mine made a “U” shaped piece of metal with 2 ears on it
——- ——- (ears) i———-i
He drilled the table top and used flat head bolts to bolt the jig to the bottom of the tabletop. Thus heads even with or just below top of table
Lined it up so that the vacuum nozzle was right next to the blade and had a super dust collector.
I hope you guys can picture this.
-- No piece is cut too short. It was meant for a smaller project.
markrules
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134 posts in 643 days
posted 498 days ago
(nevermind) I misread the post
Karson
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13165 posts in 928 days
posted 498 days ago
Sawdust2 ave your friend take a picture. I cut a 4” hole in the front of the lower blade cover and it may have sucked up some dust but not all. When I see a picture of a commercial bandsaw it looks like a piece of metal at a 45 deg angle with a blade slot in it. This metal is basicly following the curvature of the lower wheel. There is also a brush in there somewhere that brushed off the wheel to keep sawdust from sticking to the wheel.
The lower blade guard has a gap about 1” all the way around for the lower 270 degrees. A lot of places for air movement to push the sawdust out. I’m thinking some window air conditioner foam around the edges to keep the dust inside the cover and try to get the 4” port working.
Many commercial saws have an upper and lower dust port. my saw has a cast iton back so I can’t get to that and it has only a 2” thick cover so it would be tough to get a side port maybe an angle slope to get the dust pointed at the 4” dust port.
Or move the saw ouitside beside my dust dump. LOL
I’m not ready to replace this saw with a $2000.00 version. It’s not like I use it every day.
-- Karson Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com
mot
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4851 posts in 564 days
posted 494 days ago
Nice writeup Karson. I’m just catching up on blogs.
-- You can discover more about a person in an hour of play than in a year of conversation. (Plato)
GaryK
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8541 posts in 516 days
posted 494 days ago
For dust collection you can do like I did.
Just saw a hole in the lower door, drill 4 holes and attach a flanged elbow. I hook it up whenever I use it.
It gets everything but the faint dust on the top of the wood. That 4” hose really sucks it up.
See below:
-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.
sandhill
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277 posts in 452 days
posted 417 days ago
Great Mod. Kind of looks like a micro-adjuster nice touch.
-- Just another day in paradise.