I am really such a rookie that I think it will with “salad bowl” finish, but I would like to be sure. Should I use hard maple instead?

Any commoents or suggestions? I am trying to do this economically.

God Bless,
Hawg

This picture shows the stock in the background that I was cutting dados in when I had my accident. Today, I completed three dadoes in all 20 boards, planed them to size, and then cut them to the correct final size. (Got back on the bronc that threw me!) My new (used) Ridgid planer worked like a champ, saving me hours of power sanding and hand planing!

Anyway, with my “adventure” last Thursday, I realize the need for an outfeed table. I am looking to pick y’alls brains to come up with a way to mount an outfeed table to this, like Thos did on his contractor’s saw. Maybe I am dreaming and will have to build a collapsible outfeed table similar to my B&D Workmate.

Here are the rest of the pictures:

This is a side view. The large round thing at the far end is the power cord wrap. The out let is dust port.
The fence has been removed in this picture. The next two pictures shows how the fence mounts on the back rail:

I love to use this saw. I have to store it in garage and move it out when I am going to use it, or need more room in the garage. In fact, I have another such mobile base for my Ridgid planer.

So… any ideas out there?

God Bless,
Hawg

There I was cutting a doado in a length of soft cedar, guiding it on past the blades, when it bound up and shot back! When it did, it not only broke my newer fetherboard, propeled the board back into my truck tailgate, but it also drew the push block—with my hand—back over the spinning dado blade.

Here is the board.

I was using a featherboard to keep board against fence and using a pushblock to apply pressure as it went over the dado blades. I was at the end iof the board and I hesitated just a moment, trying to figure a way to keep the board from falling down to the dirt when all hell broke loose. The board flung back and I thought I felt it hitting my little finger on my left hand. I was noy until I was picking up the pieces of my broken featherboard that I noticed blood on the ground. I looked at my finger and it did not look good!

Here’s what my finger looked like at the site:

Here are the new featherboard and the push board. (Note groove in push board. This is what gave me the first inkling that the blade, not the board had hit my finger.)

Well, after being told by the local ER that it would be about 5 hours until they saw me, I had my son drive me 30 miles back to Bisbee, and I was seen in 10 minutes. After the wound was soaked and cleaned of all teh blood, you could tell that the dado blade had hit it for sure!
Here’s what it looked like at the Emergency Room:

I still will cut al the daoes in the wood to fill a project I contrated for, but I will make me a “safer” push block, sorta like the medievel sword shields, and keep my hands in front of the blades whenever I cut dadoes!

I can only thank my Lord for protecting me from really serious injury! God is so Good!!
Anyway, I have 9 stitches and will have to use a splint on little finger for about a week or so. So, nothing too serious. Just another lesson of hard knocks. We all have them to share!

Be Carefull!
God Bless,
Hawg

I plan to use a rub-on poly to finish it.

Any suggestions on how to strip the green paint off? Should I use a chemical stripper, or just sand it, or plane it, or uise a scraper? After all, it is just water-based craft paint.

Right nowI am conceiving using some clear shellac on the ash and amber shellac on the top and base. The question is, what type of dye/stain would you all prefer to accentuate the full figured ash? Do I need to stain the walnut to bring out its dark color? If so, what?

Building is realtively easy—the real trick and treasure is in the finish! Help me to better understand this essential step!

God Bless,
Hawg

Anyway, I woul like to incorporate some of Molesworth’s drawings into and onto my projects. Maybe even my Thorson table…. Hmmmm

Anyway, I would be interested in finding any “cowboy” stuff in silhouette. Do you have any leads to find some?
Thanks,
Hawg

I discovered that it, also, made acceptable miter cuts for frame making. Anyway, that old Craftsman has served me well in my frame-making endeavors, but I have yearned for a better one. One with a full ¾” miter slot, instead of the I-can’t-find-a-jig-for-it size that the lower-end Craftsman saw came with. One of the BEST features of the old saw was that tit had casters on the wheels. Living in that turn-of-the-century house (1912), the garage was an added building that was not very big. In fact, I had to roll my table saw outside to cut wood. I used the top of the table saw to clamp my miter saw on and rolled it outside to cut my miters, too.

After we moved, our new house did not have a concrete driveway, so the little casters on the Craftsman table saw often got caught when I wheeled it outside to make a cut. I knew I needed a new saw!

! Did I mention that I use braces and a crutch to walk? That made the table saw on wheels VERY important to me. I have a hard time carrying tools – I only have one hand to carry them in. The other is using the crutch. So, mobile tools are important to me.

When I checked the Home Depot web site, I saw my dream saw…. The Ridgid Jobsite Portable table saw. Its 8” wheels would easily handle the dirt terrain outside my shop. It was even foldable and portable, so I could even take it in the back of my pickup to other locations. Anyway, after months of comparing the Ridgid to other brands, such as Ryobi, Bosch, Craftsman, and a much higher-priced one at my “local” Woodcraft store 100 miles away, I ended up choosing the Ridgid. The simplicity of the folding frame, as well as the lifetime warranty made the decision simple. I now own a Ridgid TS 2400 LS.

I make my first cuts today. I am building a wooden fence around our grass to keep dogs and rabbits out of yard. I will dado and angle cut all the pickets out of 2×3 studs, so the saw will be busy. Once the fence is completed, I am off to using it to build the Thorsen challenge. It has a 90-day satisfaction guaranty, so I will try to put it to the test in the weeks ahead.

Any of you have any experience with Ridgid table saws that I might find useful? Any peculiarities you have found?
Thanks,
Hawg