Finishing #2: -- Accenting grain on Black Ash

never heard of that method … I’m thinking there must be a better way

-- ..... art for lifes sake

I use Shellac to pop the grain

-- Karson Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com

I’m with Dan; never heard of green paint. Karson’s suggestion is real good. I sometimes run a seal coat of shellac then a gel stain that I wipe off(a glaze). In porous wood like Oak and probably Ash, it really pops the grain out. Then seal with another coat of shellac. If you use shellac, you will need to sand lightly before you put on the wipe on poly. But you already knew that.

-- Thos. Angle, Owyhee Design, Oregon

Thanks, Thos. I dd not know about sanding the shellac before putting on poly. I have been using brush on poly for most of my projects, but wanted to try something new with this one. Using a seal coat and then using stain is what I usually use when I make belts. use Tandy shellac, then a coat of their highliter, then finish with Tandy’s shellac finish. I thought I could do this with porous woods, too, but was not certain. What brand sanding sealer do you use? I use Minwax. but it is only due to availability and brand reccognition.

I think I will have to try the green paint on a scrap piece, too, but love the idea of fiishing it like I do my leather.

Thanks for the replys.
God Bless,
Hawg

-- Saving barnwood from the scrapyards

Hawg,
Neatlac is not the same as shellac. It is laquer based and was formulated many years ago to remain flexible on leather. I doesn’t work well on wood. I use Zinnser Bullseye Shellac. It comes in 3 pound cut in clear and Amber. It is also available in spray cans from WoodCraft and also HomeDepot. Zinnser makes a sealer sander but to my thinking it is a waste of money because if you are using shellac you have de-natured alcohol on hand to thin and clean up. The sander sealer is 1 1/2 pound cut so just dilute the shellac which comes in the can. Spraying is the best way to apply shellac. It has a very fast drying time. If you top coat with laquer there is no need to sand until about the 5th coat and then to de-nib and polish. I used Fiebing’s Antique Finish between coats of shellac on the night stand and wall cabinet that I distressed(see my projects). If you try this be sure to let the antique dry for at least a day before continueing. The best wiping poly I’ve found is Min-Wax Fast Dry. I dilute it about half with mineral spirits. Try wiping instead of brushing. You might like it.
On my carved leather, I put on a coat of Neatlac and then use the antique finish. I then top coat with Fiebing’s Tan Coat. This stuff is all available at Tandy. Good Luck
Tom

-- Thos. Angle, Owyhee Design, Oregon

Oh, and Hawg, don’t waste you money on Wiping Poly either. Just dilute the fast dry. T

-- Thos. Angle, Owyhee Design, Oregon

Thanks for the priceless info, Tom. I don’t have the years to learn woodworking like I learned leather working. I was surprised you coulld use Feibings on wood, but I guess a stain is a stain…
I know that Neat Lac is not the same as wood shellac, I just forgot the name when posting comment.

I don’t have a sprater or a spray booth area. Maybe that will be on my next wish list. I am still woprking on an enclosed shop area…LOL

God Bless,
Hawg

-- Saving barnwood from the scrapyards