Will also work great on tree houses!
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Well, we can’t have that, so I child proofed the drawer. I wanted to do it in a way that wasn’t permanent, and that was easy to remove once she grew out of it.

This is what I can up with. Only 2 screws to attach it, so after I remove it, it’s like it was never there.
Now my drawer is a special case since it opens from both directions.

It’s gravity operated with the screws in slots on the dark piece going from front to back.
The light pieces stick up, catching on the bottom inside of the drawer preventing it from opening.

I also had to made a “ramp” on one side of the light pieces to allow the drawer to move it out of the way when I closed the drawer.

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Here you can see it with the light piece up to block the drawer from opening. Also you can see on of the screws to mount it and the “ramp” on the far piece.
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Here you can see it pushed up to allow the drawer to open. It’s easy to do one handed.
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I have never used flocking to line the inside of a box before so I can tell you if it’s any easier the my method.

I do know that my method gives you an unlimited choice of colors and patterns of fabric. Also you get as many chances to do it right as you want. If you don’t like it just rip it out and start over.

You all might remember this box from the build something without glue or fastener compitition?
Well it looks kind of naked. I will use this as my sample box. Now since the wooden hinges are in the back
I will only put fabric in the bottom

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This is a great adhesive. I have been using this can for a couple of years now!
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I glue the fabric to a thin piece of cardboard. This makes it very easy to handle.

The perfect type is what you can find on the back of a paper notepad.

I cut it so that it is a little over 1/16” undersize in both directions.

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Once the cardboard is cut, I spray glue on one side and then stick it to the fabric. Then I trim to about 1/2” around the cardboard. Then lastly cut the corners at a 45 staying a little way from the corners of the cardboard.
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Then spray glue around the edges and fold the fabric over on all four edges.

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Then just spray glue on the back surface of the entire piece and place it in the box.
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Now if I were going to do the inside of the entire box I would do the back first, then the sides, and lastly the front. The reason for that is that any seams/overlap will face away from the front of the box.

This technique works on any surface that has a single plane. Curves, circles, triangles…

Here are some boxes that I used this on:

The veneer is Indonesian Madrone burl.

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http://easttexas.craigslist.org/tls/695812860.html

28” in diameter!

It excludes only Leigh Jigs, Festool and sale items.

I think this is the first time I have ever seen power tools included in their discounts, or limiting it to just one item.

Friday May 23 thru Monday May 26.

Get it while the gettings good!

This is a great wood that has a lot of nice properties.

It has a fairly straight grain and looks kind of like scaled down oak. The sapwood is a cream white color, the heartwood is a light reddish brown. It is fine and silky with a close and even texture.

It is very hard and it’s surface can be highly polished. It cuts, sands and machines well, as well as a great screw and nail holding capability. Workable with hand tools and cuts clean with a knife blade.

One of my favorite characteristics is it’s bending capability. It takes to steam bending very well and will hold it’s shape.
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If you love to carve then this is the wood for you. It has a cream color with very little to no pattern from grain so you can cut it in basically any direction. Very easy to carve.

It’s not the greatest for machining and tends to rip or crush under the pressure of a cutting tool and when sawn it leaves a fuzzy or woolly surface. It’s also not very strong and tends to break into small pieces.

One of it’s best attributes in addition to it’s carving characteristics is it’s stability. It tends to maintain it’s shape. That’s one of the reasons that it’s used for making the keys in keyboard instruments.

Best of all is that it’s inexpensive.
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I love this wood for trim and inlays on dark woods.

It has almost no figure from grain pattern or color. Holly is a chalky white to a light shade of gray.
The texture is very fine and uniform.

It’s an easy wood to work with. Cuts clean and smooth with hand or power tools. Capable of a very smooth and hard surface. Flexible and strong, bends nicely.

Very expensive but a little goes a long way as long as you are using it as stated above.

You can also ebonize it easily.

I would love to make an entire project out of it one of these days!
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This is another wood loved by model makers. It’s grain is straight to sometimes wavy.
The wood has been steamed to produce an even pink color with little to no figure.

The wood is remarkable for its extraordinary smoothness and evenness of texture.

It is excellent for carving, turning or milling. It can be cut with a sharp edge in any direction.

Finishes to a polished surface. Pearwood can also be stained black to resemble Ebony.
Flexible and suited to bending. Like Boxwood it will shatter when broken and will not splinter.

It’s usually sold in slabs with a wild edge and even some bark. At least the two slabs I bought did.

It has a Janka hardness of about 1000.

All in all it’s a great wood and I wish it were not so expensive (about $16/bf), then I would use it a lot more.
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