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Do you have a picture? That would help a lot.

1. What kind of finish is on them?
2. How big is the top?
3. How much has it curled?
4. How is it attached to the base?
5. What kind of wood.
6. Can you remove to top to work on it?

-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.

1. High gloss latex varnish 2. 18 inches square 3. 1/4 of an inch 4. 4 under sreews very easy to remove every time I make a top it is always removable like a kitchen table 5. White birch 6. yes

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Ok How much overhang is there over the base. In other words your top is 18” square.
How big is the base it’s attached to.

Also did you put finish on the bottom?

-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.

1 and 1/2 front back flush side 1 and 1/4

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Did you put a finish on the bottom surface of the top?

-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.

No but the bottom of the top are are not perfect they were my last boards and that is why I could not play with my wood grain one up and one down , hope you know what I mean

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I am trying to post a photo but it wont let me paste it

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The problem is probably the lack of finish on both sides. This allows moisture in the bottom and will expand that surface only making it cup.

Try taking the top off and using a heat gun (hair dryer) heat the bottom surface. It may take a while (maybe 1/2 hour). Or maybe set it up in front of an electric space heater. (with the bottom facing it)
This will dry it out and hopefully straighten the top out. If it does, then apply a finish to it to keep if from sucking up any more moisture.

-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.

My idea was to wait for a nice hot sunny day and putting the top top down and putting a clamp on each side and giving it a click every 5 to 10 min. and it it doesnot split I will put a couple of wood strip with glue and screews nobody would know the difference

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Gary what you dont like my idea

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If that’s what you want to do, it’s up to you.

I just told you what I would do.

-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.

How many boards is the top made from and how are they arranged (i.e., inside or outside of tree surface facing up)...

Also, what was the moisture content (approx) of the wood when you made the top? Was the wood air dried and out in an unheated shop, worked, and then brought inside, for example? Or, had the wood been acclimated to it’s current environment? What are the resent conditions of its environment?

-- Dorje (pronounced "door-jay"), Seattle, WA

No you have a good idea I just wanted to know if mine was good you have more experience than me

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The woodstrip idea may limit expansion contraction of the top – leading to a crack…

-- Dorje (pronounced "door-jay"), Seattle, WA

Someone told me that 14 moisture was good but it is not right it is below 7 thos last board I used were close to a cement floor and I know now that cement will put moisture in your lumber

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Do you mean to run strips of wood across the grain to control the cup?

If so, you’ll need to use slots in the strips instead of holes to allow the top to expand and contract and you wouldn’t want to glue it down or your top might split.

But I would also put finish on the bottom as Gary suggests. It’s a good general rule to always give the bottom the same treatment you give the top (veneer, finish, etc).

-mj

-- mj Ashland, OR & Rockport, ME -www.mjsworkshop.org

Dorje 8 boards per top

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Mark….....you mean slots for my screews instead of hole and no glue good idea Thanks

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Garyk it your way or no way

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Unfortunately yellow and white glues are sensitive to heat. Heating the top possibly will lead to a separation in the glue joints if you used pva glues. It is possible to separate glued joints with heat and muscle. Just something to keep in mind.

-- Greg, CT

Your welcome

-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.

Even if your lumber had a high moisture content, I think your problem may be the way you attached the top. Even if your glued up panel has a desire to adjust and move, if attached properly it should stay flat and be able to expand and contract without cupping.

When you say it is screwed on, can you describe the screwing method you used to allow wood movement and how many screws at what location.

-- John, Chisel and Bit Custom Crafted Furniture, www.chiselandbit.com

Under I have 4 triagle shape corner block from under I have put 4 screews one per corner block that is what holds my top down

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Under I have 4 triagle shape corner block from under I have put 4 screews one per corner block that is what holds my top down

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IMO, four corner screws is just enough to keep your top from shifting position, or falling off, not much more. If you did not elongate the holes in the corner blocks, you have restricted the panels ability to “move”.

I don’t think you stated which way your design has the grain running, but lets assume you ran it from side to side. Using the mounting method you chose, rather than four blocks, I would have mounted screwing strips that run form front to back on each side of the carcass, and drilled four screw holes that were elongated from front to back. You could choose either the front or back to be a non elongated hole depending on your design to hold that edge of the panel in a solid position and the panel will “move” in the opposite direction.. This method uses the structural integrity of the carcass to hold the top flat and at the same time allows the top to expand and contract across its grain from front to back.

Now, I’ve discussed a method to improve your mounting technique and help prevent similar problems in the future, others have given you valid methods of “fixing” the cupped top….....which was your real question.

-- John, Chisel and Bit Custom Crafted Furniture, www.chiselandbit.com

Very good information once uncurled I will attach it the way you told me , what I find funny is that I have made 15 to 20 tops in the pass and this is the fist time I had that problem

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