I had a little bit of time this afternoon to work on the little caseā¦
I keyed the miters with walnut:

Glued up the dividers:

and, cut out the all the drawer parts:

I’ve got drawer bottom stock prepared from the first day (in the background of the photo above), so my next step will be to cut the joinery for the drawers. And, since this is supposed to be a quick and dirty project, I’m going to rout the drawers with a drawer lock bit. Like this:

-- Dorje (pronounced "door-jay"), Seattle, WA























16 comments so far
Lee A. Jesberger
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2204 posts in 385 days
posted 157 days ago
Hey Dorje;
I’m not certain, but I believe you’re supposed to trim off those keys!
Are you using 3/4” stock for the drawers?
Great work so far…
Lee
-- by Lee A. Jesberger http://www.prowoodworkingtips.com http://www.ezee-feed.com
Scott Bryan
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8031 posts in 228 days
posted 157 days ago
This is coming along nicely. I can’t wait to see the final product. And I still haven’t looked up Tansu yet but I will.
-- With God's help all things are possible- even woodworking. Woodworking is not just a hobby, it is an (expletive deleted) expensive hobby.
Mark Mazzo
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287 posts in 318 days
posted 157 days ago
Dorje,
Looks like it’s taking shape. The walnut will be a nice contrast in the keys. I’ve used that drawer lock bit before…it works well if your stock is flat and true. If not, it can be a bit fussy. The size of your drawers indicates that the stock is probably very true so, you should be set.
Waiting for the next installment!
-- Mark, Webster New York, Visit my website at http://thecraftsmanspath.com
Dorje
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1708 posts in 402 days
posted 156 days ago
Lee – the drawer fronts are 5/8” like the carcase…the sides are 1/2”
Mark – good to know that those bits work well – the stock for the drawers is in nice flat shape, so I’m looking forward to an easy time of it…famous last words?
Scott – look no further – I plan to use pulls similar to the first and third case; I was originally going to cut out holes at the tops of the drawers, but have decided to go with hardware:
-- Dorje (pronounced "door-jay"), Seattle, WA
Todd A. Clippinger
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2486 posts in 505 days
posted 156 days ago
I am looking forward to the final pictures. I have been wanting to do a tansu style project. I am in love with the style.
-- Todd A. Clippinger, Montana, http://amcraftsman.com
Dorje
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1708 posts in 402 days
posted 156 days ago
I’d love to do a large tansu – similar to a built in, but tiny it is for now! I love the similarity found between Shaker and Tansu pieces…simple and beautiful – let the wood do the talking!
-- Dorje (pronounced "door-jay"), Seattle, WA
MsDebbieP
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11040 posts in 566 days
posted 156 days ago
how wonderful
The photo series is excellent
-- "Functional WoodArt" by Debbie, Canada (http://www.execulink.com/~yohan)
Tomcat1066
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556 posts in 202 days
posted 156 days ago
Looks good Dorje!
The cool thing about tansu stuff is that, basically, it’s modular. You can always do another chest similar to this one but a bit bigger, and POOF! Then, you can add another, and another, and another until your entire house is filled with tansu chests!
OK, maybe I went a bit overboard, but still…you can definitely build onto this project later, and that’s one of the cool things about tansu. I’m hoping to build a tansu set-up for my living room someday!
-- "Give me your poor tools, your tired steel, your huddled masses of rust." Yep, I ripped off the Statue of Liberty. That's how I roll!
GaryK
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8274 posts in 394 days
posted 156 days ago
Looking good so far. I have never used one of those router bit before so I am kind of curious how they work
out.
-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.
SteveL
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39 posts in 174 days
posted 156 days ago
Nice keys. I use a Japanese flush-cut saw that has all the teeth set to one side (I’m supposed to have a pair of these, one with the teeth on the left and one with the teeth on the right, but they were out of stock on the right-side-set blade so I have to be ambidextrous with the left set saw.) The advantage is that you don’t scratch or scuff the stock if you are careful with the saw.
Before you cut the end-grain of the drawers with the router, check out the tips and techniques article in this month’s FWW that just came yesterday. There’s a nice little backing board jig there that helps avoid tear out.
Keep the good work coming!
-- SteveL
Blake
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1836 posts in 280 days
posted 156 days ago
This is looking really good. This will be a nice piece when its finished. I like seeing all the in-between construction pictures.
-- Dust collectors suck.
rikkor
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6689 posts in 280 days
posted 156 days ago
This is really looking good. I can hardly wait to see the finished project.
-- Maplewood, MN
Dorje
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1708 posts in 402 days
posted 155 days ago
Thanks all -
SteveL – I’ll have to peek at the article you mentioned, though I am in the habit of backing up cuts on end grain. Also, I have a little Crown flush cut saw – with no set on either side, and that works well for trimming.
Gary – I played with the bit set up today; phew, I guess I could have used some instructions. After tinkering for a while, I was able to get it dialed in for the drawer joinery. But, ran out of time, so didn’t quite get there! Maybe in a couple/few days…
-- Dorje (pronounced "door-jay"), Seattle, WA
ChicoWoodnut
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433 posts in 221 days
posted 155 days ago
This is really looking good. Can’t wait to see it finished.
-- Scott - Chico California http://chicowoodnut.home.comcast.net
gizmodyne
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1454 posts in 496 days
posted 155 days ago
Lookin good. How did you cut the kerf for the keys?
-- -John "Do I have to keep typing a smiley? Just assume it's a joke." www.flickr.com/photos/gizmodyne
Dorje
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1708 posts in 402 days
posted 154 days ago
John- I just built a little sled for the table saw – I know there’s lots of ways to do it, but I made mine like the one in this Gary Rogowski box article. I made the two sided one and built it for 8” wide capacity.
I just got the hardware today, so that was exciting!
-- Dorje (pronounced "door-jay"), Seattle, WA