STANLEY BENCH PLANE RESTORATION
Click here for large format version
More information available on my woodworking blog & podcast The Folding Rule Show
Step #1 – Cleaning & Rust Removal
I have been inspired by a number of resources to start using my hand planes and start on the slippery slope of a hand plane collection. Not the least of whom has been Wayne, our own Lumberjocks plane guru. Of course I have also explored a number of websites including our good friend Phil on the other side of the pond and Matt from Matt’s Basement Workshop.
Another great resource is Patrick's Blood and Gore
Most importantly I have come to realize I need these planes to achieve a higher degree of fit and finish. Plus I like the quite sounds of hand tools and the feel of a thin shaving of wood peeling out of the plane mouth. So the focus of this entry will be an old, but not so valuable, Stanley bench plane that has lived in my carpenter’s box for perhaps 25 years. I used and abused this plane for coarse fitting work on decks and fences. I also used it to hand plane a bunch of clear vertical grain construction redwood for a bed that I made for my wife and I almost 25 years ago.
I am hoping I can revive this fellow to take a place on my bench for future work building furniture and cabinets. Along with my small Stanley block plane, these will be the nucleus of my plane collection.
Today I disassembled the plane and started to experiment with electrolytic rust removal on the plane iron and chip breaker. I plan on replacing these with a Hock set in the near future. The reason I am spending time cleaning these is because I am going to use them in a multi-sized dowel-cutting jig. Also, I want to see how well this process works before dunking my plane body in the bucket!
UPDATE: Thanks to Wayne here is a great link to check out for HOCK BLADES
UPDATE: Thanks to Scopemonkey for noticing I got the polarity reversed on the first posting. Below is an updated diagram with the correct polarity. Thanks Scopemonkey!
The cool thing about this project is that I already had everything in the shop!
Use a brass brush and a 3M grey abrasive pad for final cleaning.
Some residual stubborn stains were removed with a bath in glycolic acid. I used Kaboom Shower, Tub & Tile Cleaner. After the acid bath I rinsed the parts in fresh water and ran them in the electrolytic solution for 15 minutes to neutralize the acid followed by a second rinse in plain water.
After completing the de-rusting and cleaning process all parts were treated immediately with BoeShield T-9 which is available at the Lumberjock Store. WD-40 would be a good alternative to BoeShield T-9.
Plane iron & chipper free of rust after electrolytic cleaning
Cap screw before cleaning
Cap screw after cleaning
UDATE: Thanks to Wayne, our own Lumberjocks plane guru, make sure you will not alter the intrinsic value of your plane or other tools by this type of cleaning process, i.e. some planes have igh collector vaule and should be left as is with age patina.
MATERIALS LIST
• 5 gal plastic bucket
• rebar pins for anode grid
• copper wire
• wire nuts
• alligator clips
• Arm & Hammer Washing Soda (sodium carbonate)
• 6/12 volt battery charger
• Kaboom Tile, Tub & Shower Cleaner
• brass brush
• 3M grey abrasive pad
• WD-40
• BoeShield T-9
BUCKET PREPARATION
• Drill holes near edge for twisted wire loops
• Secure rebar with twisted wire
• Connect rebar anode grid with copper wire & wire nuts
POLARITY IS CRITICAL!
The BLACK (negative) lead is connected to the part being cleaned
The RED (positive) lead is connected to the rebar anode grid
ONLINE RESOURCES
Barry’s Woodworking – Rust Removal
Geoff’s Science Garage on YouTube
SAFETY CONSIDERATIONS
Before starting, review the Material Data Safety Sheets (MSDS) for the recommended products
Use common sense – if it doesn’t feel right don’t do it
The gases generated are oxygen & hydrogen
Do this process in a well-ventilated area away from sparks or open flame
Wear gloves and safety goggles / glasses
The electrolyte solution is mildly alkaline and could irritate your skin and eyes
Wash any splayed solution off your skin with plenty of fresh water
Despite some recommendations, DO NOT use stainless steel for the electrodes as the results produce a toxic solution containing hexavalent chromate. Hexavalent chromate is a poisonous and hazardous material that requires special handling and disposal.
Click here for a good discussion of why NOT to use stainless steel
MATERIAL SAFETY DATA SHEETS































38 comments so far
WayneC
home | projects | blog
5690 posts in 503 days
posted 282 days ago
Great info. I’ve been wanting to try electrolytic rust removal but not gotten around to it. Any thoughts about getting a hock blade and chipbreaker?
-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov
mot
home | projects | blog
4830 posts in 442 days
posted 282 days ago
Nice!
-- You can discover more about a person in an hour of play than in a year of conversation. (Plato)
David
home | projects | blog
1802 posts in 544 days
posted 282 days ago
Wayne -
I am getting a Hock blade & chip braker. I am going to use this iron & chip breaker in a dowel making jig (hope to post that later!).
David
-- http://foldingrule.blogspot.com
WayneC
home | projects | blog
5690 posts in 503 days
posted 282 days ago
David are you going to try this on the body of the plane? Also, are you planning to lap the sole?
-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov
jpw1995
home | projects | blog
347 posts in 704 days
posted 282 days ago
I have a couple of old Bedrock planes that belonged to my great granfather, and I’ve been wanting to clean them up. I can’t wait to try this out. I also can’t wait to see the look on my neighbor’s face when I’m standing in the driveway looking over a bucket with a battery charger and wires running to it while wearing rubber gloves and safety goggles!
-- JP, Shelbyville, KY
David
home | projects | blog
1802 posts in 544 days
posted 282 days ago
Wayne -
I knew you would ask that . . . !
This worked out really well and I was pleased with the results. The plane body is next in the tank followed by lapping and a new plane iron chip breaker set. I guess the next project will be a shooting board thanks to you guys!
David
-- http://foldingrule.blogspot.com
David
home | projects | blog
1802 posts in 544 days
posted 282 days ago
JP -
It does look kind of funny with all the wires and bubbles! I did get a lot of funny looks from bypassers . . . should have gotten some video of thier faces as they tried to figure out what I was doing!
David
-- http://foldingrule.blogspot.com
WayneC
home | projects | blog
5690 posts in 503 days
posted 282 days ago
Hey, JP what size bedrock planes? Be careful cleaning them. They may be best left original.
-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov
jpw1995
home | projects | blog
347 posts in 704 days
posted 282 days ago
I was wondering about that, Wayne. I’m am very unfamiliar with planes, but I’ll get the numbers off of them and let you know. I may even take some pictures if I get a chance. They are in bad shape. Apparently my great granfather and grandfather really put some hard miles on them. I ran across them last summer when I found my grandfather’s old wooden tool chest. I was so excited to find them, but nobody could understand since they were just “junk”. Oh well… one man’s trash…...
-- JP, Shelbyville, KY
David
home | projects | blog
1802 posts in 544 days
posted 282 days ago
Wayne -
Good advice as always! Just for clarity, I cleaned this plane because it has no other value than just a tool I wanted to tune-up. Obviously some tools should be left in thier original state so you don’t alter value.
David
-- http://foldingrule.blogspot.com
WayneC
home | projects | blog
5690 posts in 503 days
posted 282 days ago
Thanks David.
I would agree this plane is a good candidate for restoration. There are lots of them in service. But with some planes selling for in the multiple hundreds to thousands of dollars, it pay to determine if the plane has any sigificant collector’s value. Ebay is a good way to do it.
Check out what Bedrocks, Stanley #1s and #2s sell for. It may open folks eyes.
-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov
David
home | projects | blog
1802 posts in 544 days
posted 282 days ago
Body should go into the tank tonight. We are packing for vacation later this week . . .
Thanks for the link for the Hock blade set!
David
-- http://foldingrule.blogspot.com
Thos. Angle
home | projects | blog
3243 posts in 368 days
posted 282 days ago
Thanks David, I’ve been wanting to know how to use this electrolysis cleaning method. Now I have it. Thanks again.
Tom
-- Thos. Angle, Owyhee Design, Oregon
David
home | projects | blog
1802 posts in 544 days
posted 282 days ago
Tom -
You’re welcome! I had a lot of fun with this . . . very impressed with how clean the blade was afterwards. I will be using this technique in the future!
David
-- http://foldingrule.blogspot.com
Lee A. Jesberger
home | projects | blog
2204 posts in 385 days
posted 282 days ago
David;
Fantastic information. It really makes me want to go buy something rusty!
Lee
Lee
-- by Lee A. Jesberger http://www.prowoodworkingtips.com http://www.ezee-feed.com
David
home | projects | blog
1802 posts in 544 days
posted 282 days ago
Lee -
Good to hear from you! Thanks for the kind comment!
I have a lot of rusty stuff I am going to work on.
David
-- http://foldingrule.blogspot.com
furnitologist
home | projects | blog
166 posts in 419 days
posted 282 days ago
Hey David:
That’s pretty cool information!!!!! I love how you go after stuff!!!!!! .........now be careful, one wrong touch of a wire and ZZZZZZZZZap, there goes the house siding again!!!!
I like that David…........Neil
David
home | projects | blog
1802 posts in 544 days
posted 282 days ago
Hey Neil, great to hear from you! Curious what you are up to . . .
LOL I was very careful with the wires :-) no shocks from the DC current.
The house is going well – siding is going up quickly under the direct supervision of an on site engineer. Good timing as the weather is starting to turn!
David
-- http://foldingrule.blogspot.com
lance
home | projects | blog
129 posts in 394 days
posted 282 days ago
Cool! I will save this for future use.
-- Bob Lance, DE
Jeff
home | projects | blog
945 posts in 499 days
posted 282 days ago
Thanks for the informative post, David. Between this one and Wayne’s post on the citric acid approach, I have a lot to try out! You guys always provide great in-depth stuff.
-- Jeff, St. Paul, MN
David
home | projects | blog
1802 posts in 544 days
posted 281 days ago
Lance & Jeff -
Thanks!
-- http://foldingrule.blogspot.com
PanamaJack
home | projects | blog
4453 posts in 483 days
posted 281 days ago
Great job David, something to try on the old planes I have collected this year.
-- Carpe Lignum - Seize The Wood,
clieb91
home | projects | blog
279 posts in 341 days
posted 281 days ago
David, Thanks for the great information. I have just recently acquired a couple of older hand saws that were my grandfathers. I am wondering now if this may be the way to look in to cleaning them of some the rust they have accumulated.
any idea if the trick would work with them as well?
Thanks again
-- Chris L. "Don't Dream it, Be it."
David
home | projects | blog
1802 posts in 544 days
posted 281 days ago
Chris -
This will work on your handsaws. One site I saw did one end at a time. You could also just find a larger container or tank to fit the blade. One word of caution is to make sure you do not de-value the saws by cleaning and removing patina. Send Wayne a PM about this as he is a great resource in this area. In summery the electrolytic process will work for any iron or steel tool. Let me know how it goes!
-- http://foldingrule.blogspot.com
WayneC
home | projects | blog
5690 posts in 503 days
posted 281 days ago
Chris – Try this link
http://norsewoodsmith.com/node/28
-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov
David
home | projects | blog
1802 posts in 544 days
posted 281 days ago
Chris -
Excellent website link from Wayne (as I would expect!).
Two observations. (1) The anode he is using is somewhat limiting as the electrolytic process is “line-of-sight” so what I would reccommend is a couple of long pieces of rebar connected by wire set-up with one bar down each side of the tub and perhaps one down the center with the saw suspended in the solution above the anodes (rebar). (2) The tub to look for for de-rusting a saw is one of those flat wrapping paper storage bins.
Good Luck!
-- http://foldingrule.blogspot.com
SST
home | projects | blog
227 posts in 601 days
posted 260 days ago
Help! I’ve been all over town…granted, Wausau WI is kinda the shopping armpit of Wisconsin, and can’t find washing soda. Short of going online and spending $6.00 to ship a box here, where can I find the stuff. I’ve got a Stanley plane thats crying (rusty tears) for the treatment.
I’ve tried a hardware store, grocery store and Target. Have I missed the obvious? Is it at my local Wal-Mart?
-- You get no points when you punt
David
home | projects | blog
1802 posts in 544 days
posted 260 days ago
I also had a bit of trouble locating Washing Soda. I finally found it a a local grocery store (WinCo) in the laundry supply section. I did a quick search online and found a conversation string regarding the same difficulty – excerpt posted below:
“Go to the Arm and Hammer Website, they have a product finder feature where you enter the zip code and they list stores near you that carry the product . . . “
Have you tried the Arm & Hammer website zip coade locator?
I feel bad you are having difficulty . . . hopefully another LJ that is locat to you might give some additional ideas. I did read on another website that some one used A & H Baking Soda ( a different compound ) and was successful – I just don’t have any experience other that with the washing soda.
David
-- http://foldingrule.blogspot.com
scopemonkey
home | projects | blog
48 posts in 569 days
posted 255 days ago
Thanks for the info. Oxy-Clean can also be used (sodium carbonate and sodium percarbonate) and is widely available. My local supermarket didn’t carry the A&H product. I just wanted to point out that the cartoon graphic has the polarity reversed.
-- GSY from N. Idaho
David
home | projects | blog
1802 posts in 544 days
posted 253 days ago
Scopemonkey -
Thanks for the tip about Oxy-Clean. I also appreciate you catching my mistake regarding the reversed polarity on the first posting! I just posted an update with due credit.
David
-- http://foldingrule.blogspot.com
Max
home | projects | blog
5063 posts in 679 days
posted 253 days ago
David,
In using this method does it also remove the japaning from the plane? I just got a Stanley 140 skew plane that I want to try this on. The japaning is in good shape but the body is quite rusty on the sides and sole.
-- Max "Desperado", Salt Lake City, UT
David
home | projects | blog
1802 posts in 544 days
posted 253 days ago
Max -
I’ve read on other blogs about electrolytic rust removal that the japanning is not affected. I would use caution as I bet it depends what the actual finish really is – my plane had a blue jappaning which was firmly intact. After removing all the rust the jappaning had lifted in a few areas. This did not bother me as I was intending to re-apply a finish (preferably black). Also, as Wayne mentioned, make sure your plane is not a collector plane with intrinsic value. Cleaning a collector plane may alter it’s value negatively.
Let me know how it goes – I am curious!
Cheers,
David
-- http://foldingrule.blogspot.com
Hawgnutz
home | projects | blog
480 posts in 482 days
posted 222 days ago
Thanks, David! I have a plane that is screaming for this treatment! No collector’s edition, just an Ebay special I want to restore to service. I found a link to the Arm and Hammer Washing Soda: Here it is.
It cost around 9.55, delivered to my door. I might have found it somewhere else, but i figure my time is worth the 4.80 delivery fee.
I got a few others that may get dunked, too. Most have rust that is creeping up in hard to get to places.
God Bless,
Hawg
-- Saving barnwood from the scrapyards
Hawgnutz
home | projects | blog
480 posts in 482 days
posted 222 days ago
Opps, clicked on double posting.
-- Saving barnwood from the scrapyards
rikkor
home | projects | blog
6689 posts in 280 days
posted 222 days ago
Great informative post and commentary. Something else for me to do in the future.
-- Maplewood, MN
R. R. Yontz
home | projects | blog
2 posts in 126 days
posted 125 days ago
A couple of things I have picked up in my research is that the japanning is removed only if there is rust beneath the japanning. I have not been able to verify that, but I do have an extremely rusty (with some possible pitting) Stanley Bedrock 603 (which might I gloat and say I picked up for $15) which might be able shed light on this, but I haven’t cleaned the rust dust off of it to tell if there is any japanning to begin with.
By the way, do we have any electrochemists that can explain to me how to create a home nickel-plating rig? If so, ping me with a PM.
Woodshopfreak
home | projects | blog
320 posts in 148 days
posted 107 days ago
That is pretty coo. I should suggest that to my dad who has a old stanly plane that is really rusty because it was not taken care of.
-- Tyler, Illinois
David
home | projects | blog
1802 posts in 544 days
posted 96 days ago
Tyler -
It is a lot of fun cleaning up an old plane and bringing it back to life!
-- http://foldingrule.blogspot.com