Calgirl's Workshop

that looks wonderful. gosh, all that room and so well organized!!
Can’t wait to see it being built.

-- "Functional WoodArt" by Debbie, Canada (http://www.execulink.com/~yohan)

NIce looking shop layout – but I think you are laying the dust collection underground! I wonder if you should reconsider this – underground blockages can be very difficult to remove. This warning maybe too late. Whatever you decide to do good luck and keep us all posted on the progress

-- Tony - All things are possible, just some things are more difficult than others! - SKYPE: Heron2005 (http://www.poydatjatuolit.fi)

Tony,
Yes, I am going to try laying the dust collecting tubing underground. Everything underground will be 6” S&D with wyes and I’m hoping that I won’t have any clog-ups with my powerful ClearVue collector. I intend to place a thin cable thru some of the runs which I will bring out through the side of the pipe above cement level just in case I need some persuasion if I do have a clog. On the shorter runs I can use a plumbing snake. I really want to keep all that pipe out of sight so that I can have an uncluttered shop. Wish me luck ! I may need it.

-- Forget the health food, I need all the preservatives I can get !

Take some pictures before they remove the trees, and progress pictures as they go along.

You will regret it if you don’t.

You saw mine, right? Pretty cool, huh?

Gary

-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.

Please – Please – Please do not run any cables or anything inside the ducting – otherwise you will be asking for trouble – I am speaking from experience here. Any obstruction in the dust ducting will be detrimental to your air flow – reducing the overall performance and highly increasing the risk of a clog.

The only way to really clear is clog underground is with a chimney brush or pluming rods – remember they do not like sharp 90°bends when going in.

I am assuming that the “S&D” is smooth walled steel tubing – if you rivet the joints together, then use the shortest rivets possible – use duct tape on the outside to give an airtight seal. Whatever you do – do not use the expandable plastic tubing for your long runs or underground. The air pressure velocity loss is incredibly high and this risk of clog is extreem

I would suggest running a 6” plastic water pipe alongside the ducting to run all your other cables and airlines through – if you put a long loop of cord throughout the ancillary duct – you will be able to pull new lines/cables through the existing duct.

The planer and lathe are your biggest producer of chips, both in quantity and irregular size – if you planing a large board, say 15” wide, you will be surprised at how much material is removed. The Table saw is probably your biggest threat of producing long thin slivers of material which just love to act as a dam – collecting debris behind it ultimately causing a clog.

Sorry to go on – but you are investing a lot of time, effort and money into this – I would not like to see you make the same mistakes as me. Good luck

-- Tony - All things are possible, just some things are more difficult than others! - SKYPE: Heron2005 (http://www.poydatjatuolit.fi)

Looks like a very well planned shop. I look forward to seeing your progress and completion pictures.

-- Jesus is Lord!

Can’t wait for the pictures…

-- "Bordnerizing" perfectly good lumber for over a decade.

If it isn’t to late, why not consider building a floor that is like the ones used in computer rooms with removable tiles that would allow access to all your piping. In essence you will be creating a crawl space of sorts. Good Luck

-- Bob Lance, DE