Well I’m still pretty tuckered out from my vacation drive home so I’m only puttering around today. But one of the things I need to do is make pegs for my cutting board we made in class. The tenons are to be draw bored and for that you need a peg. So I’ve been messing around with making pegs/dowels today.
The first thing is that you can make a dowel from any type of wood. The straighter the grain the better. If your grain is not straight it will still work, but you should work with shorter pieces.
I only have a small piece of white oak for my board so I practiced with some red oak, it’s not the straightest grain but it will do for demonstration purposes.
By the way – if you are learning a new trick like this – it helps to blog about it, because you have to think it through more thoroughly than you may if you were not trying to explain it to someone.
So here we go. First you need a scrap of the wood you want to use for a dowel – it needs to be at least a smidgen wider than the finished dowel. Set the scrap in a vise or other type of holding devise.
Using a sharp chisel – rive a piece a bit wider than the final dowel you need.
The straighter the grain the neater more precise the cutoff will be. You can see this red oak did not go down perfectly—- but I can still use it for the 1/4” dowel I’m working on.
Cherry did not split well at all. But it makes a nice wedge.
Next taper down the corners of the cutoff so that it’s tapered at one end. I used a block with a channel plowed into it to hold the cutoff on an angle to get the corners down. Then used a block plane to do the clean up work.
You can also use a knife to taper the end of the cutoff. But I would not suggest using this particular knife as it is so dull it would not cut butter—but you get the idea.
Next you need a dowel plate. You can pick these up at most good hobby shops or Lie Nielson sells them also. They run about $45-50 and you can get in inches or metric. Set the desired diameter of dowel over a hole in your bench.
Insert the tapered end of the cutoff into that diameter hole.
Then just started pounding away at it. As the cutoff goes into the dowel plate you will see that the sides will ””flower” up on the sides. That’s a good thing.
You need to be careful as you are driving the cutoff to make sure you are driving it straight. If it gets cocked at an angle your piece will either break or not be completely smooth when you are done.
Once the cutoff is through the plate, pull it out the back and you should have a pretty clean dowel/peg.
And for giggles if you want to make toothpicks, or just a smaller dowel, just move onto the next smallest hole.
Well – that’s all the puttering for today. I’m headed off to watch a ballgame.
As always I appreciate your comments, suggestions or “you know that is not exactly right” help.
-- Betsy - GO BUCKS!


































8 comments so far
Scott Bryan
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9123 posts in 309 days
posted 140 days ago
Betsy,
This looks like an interesting technique. If memory serves me (and that is a big if) I believe that Gary did something like this for one of his projects. It sounds like you are having fun.
Have you gotten a car yet?
-- With God's help all things are possible- even woodworking. Woodworking is not just a hobby, it is an (expletive deleted) expensive hobby.
John Ormsby
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164 posts in 224 days
posted 140 days ago
It’s good to see the energy and interest in woodworking.
One thing I noticed is that you are using a steel bench dog. It might be a god idea to substitute the dogs for wooden ones when using a plane or other tool that might get damaged if it hits the steel dogs. They are easy to make buy purchasing some 3/4” dowel.
Keep up the good work!!!!!!!!!!!
-- Oldworld, Fair Oaks, Ca
teenagewoodworker
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2036 posts in 256 days
posted 139 days ago
thats cool. i always see those dowel plates when i look through my lie-Nielsen catalog but i never know what they were for. thanks for the post.
Betsy
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1785 posts in 383 days
posted 139 days ago
Thanks guys.
Scott – nope no car yet. I’ve been looking and looking. But I really can’t make a decision on what to get until I know what the insurance is going to give me on the other car. I want to keep payments as low as I can, imagine that.
John—- you are right about the dogs. I’m careful to move them lower than the top of the workpiece, but accidents happen so I will be making some wooden dogs soon.
TWW——glad to help. I enjoy doing these blogs and enjoy yours as well!
-- Betsy - GO BUCKS!
gator9t9
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282 posts in 192 days
posted 139 days ago
Betsy Thanks so much for this blog as I had forgotten about the old way of dowel making.
I think i saw Roy Underhill make dowels one time about 20 yrs ago ..
It seems as looking at your dowel that what you have after driving the oversized wood piece thru the Lie Nielsen
dowel maker hole …is a piece that may or may not be round or may or may not be torn on one side as yours seems to be …Is this just the way it happens or was this your first time or ????
I am not trying to be critical …just want to know if one can make quality dowels by hand …
and who won the ball game …..I know it wasn’t the Mariners …as we seem to be mired in another crappy season…..
thanks again …
-- Mike in Bonney Lake " If you are real real real good your whole life, You 'll be buried in a curly maple coffin when you die."
Betsy
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1785 posts in 383 days
posted 139 days ago
Mike—- thanks for reading my blog. I don’t think you are being critical at all. This system works well when you start with a straight grained wood. White Oak is best. I was using red oak just for demonstration. But you can make dowels from any type of wood——you just need to be very careful and start with a piece that is just oversize.
Not every attempt will be perfect—- but you’ll get close.
The Rays beat the Rangers.
-- Betsy - GO BUCKS!
EdC
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420 posts in 328 days
posted 137 days ago
Imagine what our Grandfathers went through to make some of the fine old furniture that is still around today.
Nice blog Betsy.
-- Ed Collinge- Edmonds, WA.
Betsy
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1785 posts in 383 days
posted 114 days ago
thanks Ed.
-- Betsy - GO BUCKS!