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Table Saw/Router Work Station #2: Table top is ready but the question now is how....

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Blog entry by Josh posted 03-02-2010 10:22 PM 4663 reads 4 times favorited 17 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 1: Creating the Carcass Part 2 of Table Saw/Router Work Station series Part 3: Table Saw In Place with Hardboard Top »

Slowly but surely I’m making progress on this workstation. Most of the workstations I’ve seen on here are broken into three cabinets. A left, a center (which is usally just a stand for a table saw) and then a right cabinet. I like the design of these workstations a lot because they give you that extra support on the left and ride side of the saw but one of the things that I don’t like about my little table saw is that it doesn’t provide me with very much room before or after the blade. So what I did was essentially build the same carcass as most everyone else on this site but I’ve taken a piece of plywood that is 36” X 48” and I’m using that as my table top (I cut out the middle so that my little table saw has a place to poke through).

I…think….I like my design for the reason I mention above but now I’m a little unsure how to process. I obviously have some touching up to do (sanding and whatever else) but my big question is how should I attach that top piece of plywood to the carcass? I assume I’ll nee more than just glue.

Workstation

Just in case you’re wondering, the box holding the table saw is attached with bolts so that if I ever need to get the saw out to use somewhere else I can remove the legs and drop the box and pull the saw out. I hope I don’t need to do that often (or ever). Also, I plan to dado a couple slots in the box holding the tablesaw and add some additional removable support.

-- Josh, South Jordan Utah



17 comments so far

View Kerry Drake's profile

Kerry Drake

164 posts in 1745 days


#1 posted 03-02-2010 10:32 PM

Pocket Screws would work well here. If you used them in enough spots you wouldn’t necessarily HAVE to glue the top down, that way you could remove it later if you needed to.

-- Kerry Drake, Loudon NH, http://thenickedfinger.wordpress.com/

View AaronK's profile

AaronK

1398 posts in 2189 days


#2 posted 03-02-2010 10:37 PM

interesting approach. i have a similar TS with a similar problem. What are you going to do about a fence?

View Josh's profile

Josh

99 posts in 1746 days


#3 posted 03-02-2010 10:40 PM

I bought a 4’ t-track package from rockler last month for 19.99. I plan to install the track in front of and behind the saw in the plywood. You can’t see it because I haven’t cut the hole yet but I have a router that will be attached to the right side. I’ll use the same fence for the tablesaw and the router.

-- Josh, South Jordan Utah

View AaronK's profile

AaronK

1398 posts in 2189 days


#4 posted 03-02-2010 10:47 PM

cool. so something like 80/20 then? sort of like Incra?

View dbhost's profile

dbhost

5386 posts in 1956 days


#5 posted 03-02-2010 10:49 PM

You are going to want to finish cutting those dadoes for the miter slots for sure…

-- My workshop blog can be found at http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com

View Josh's profile

Josh

99 posts in 1746 days


#6 posted 03-02-2010 10:52 PM

Yeah. Here is exactly what I got http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21967

-- Josh, South Jordan Utah

View Josh's profile

Josh

99 posts in 1746 days


#7 posted 03-02-2010 10:55 PM

Db, I agree about the miter slots but I was actually contemplating cutting a new miter slot to the left side of the table. Not sure yet though. The table saw is a craftsman and the miter slots on it kind of blow.

Check out OutPutter’s crosscut sled. He explains the problem.
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/26395

Not exactly sure what I’m gonna do yet.

-- Josh, South Jordan Utah

View Jeison's profile

Jeison

947 posts in 1832 days


#8 posted 03-02-2010 11:54 PM

First off, thats a great idea to add extra depth in front/in back of the blade, and I second Kerry on the use of pocket screws to attach the table top..

Now, What I’d suggest is, since I see you have the same crappy insert as my skil saw which violently resists a zero clearance insert…

First off, check out this video by Steveinmarin on his drill press table and note how he made the slide out center panel…http://lumberjocks.com/Stevinmarin/blog/12760

Now, cover the entire surface of the table and saw with a 1/4” (or maybe 1/8” would work) hardboard or plywood, with a center panel wide enough to accomodate the saw throat opening – you get a nice continous zero-clearance work surface, and can easily replace the insert when it ges chewed up.

Then I’d rout out standard size miter channels (or install miter track) on either side of the table saw into the plywood, and you then you can use a miter guage (with a sturdy and long auxiliary fence) or simply make crosscut and miter sleds with widely spaced runners (prolly a better idea)

also I don’t know if it would be necessary, but if it was me I’d double up that top, laminating two pieces of 3/4” ply (or adding an MDF top to the plywood base) for additional strength, and resist any warping it might encounter. You’d need to shim up the saw base to boost the height a little to compensate but that should’nt be to difficult.

-- - Jei, Rockford IL - When in doubt, spray it with WD-40 and wrap it with duct tape. The details will attend to themselves.

View AaronK's profile

AaronK

1398 posts in 2189 days


#9 posted 03-03-2010 01:13 AM

jeison has a good idea there. I’ve contemplating doing the very same thing myself, but i cant find any decent hardboard around here. also, i suggest hardboard, not plywood for the top, since in my experience thin plywood warps very easily and quickly. also, hardboard will be smoother.

what i would do with your setup, josh, is route dados to extend the current miter slots, since sometimes it’s just easier to use those for things that dont have to be exact. But I would also route dados along the sides, in the plywood, of standard size miter slots or for t-track. that is, essentially straddling the table like OutPutter’s crosscut sled. Then, since you have a nice, wide surface, you can build a variety of crosscut sleds using both of those new miter slots. For example, one can be very deep for larger panels, and another could be narrow for crosscutting narrower individual boards. Obviously you can use a large sled for small pieces, but big ones can be kind of enormous and small ones are convenient.

View AaronK's profile

AaronK

1398 posts in 2189 days


#10 posted 03-03-2010 01:19 AM

what i mean:

View Josh's profile

Josh

99 posts in 1746 days


#11 posted 03-03-2010 01:32 AM

you guys amaze me with your sketchup abilities

If I do put hardboard on the top. If its only 1/4” how do you then route miter slots and all that? Would I essentially be attached multiple pieces of hardboard and just leave a gap where I would have routed a miter slot?

-- Josh, South Jordan Utah

View AaronK's profile

AaronK

1398 posts in 2189 days


#12 posted 03-03-2010 01:39 AM

sketchup is great – very very valuable tool.

i’d just throw the hardboard on top, then route the miter slots through that into the ply. i have to go, i’ll try to do in it in sketchup later :-)

View Jeison's profile

Jeison

947 posts in 1832 days


#13 posted 03-03-2010 01:49 AM

I’d glue down the hardboard to the ply then rout through both

-- - Jei, Rockford IL - When in doubt, spray it with WD-40 and wrap it with duct tape. The details will attend to themselves.

View AaronK's profile

AaronK

1398 posts in 2189 days


#14 posted 03-03-2010 02:02 AM

except for the insert, which you should screw in to make removable/replaceable.

View Josh's profile

Josh

99 posts in 1746 days


#15 posted 03-03-2010 06:47 PM

I bought 1/8” hardboard last night. I love that idea I think it’s really going to work great.

Lets talk warping now, jei’son you say I ought to laminate two 3/4” pieces of ply together. I have a bunch of extra 1X4’s, would reinforcing the plywood with these 1X4’s be enough do I need to suck it up and go buy another $35 sheet of ply?

-- Josh, South Jordan Utah

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