LumberJocks

HELP european hinges

  • Advertise with us
Blog entry by jim1953 posted 1475 days ago 5756 reads 0 times favorited 10 comments Add to Favorites Watch

Iam going to build kitchen cabinets and she wants them contemporary and I want to use european style hinges but I dont no where to drill the holes in doors maybe I need a jig NEED HELP Thanks Jim

-- Jim, Kentucky



10 comments so far

View Howie's profile

Howie

2656 posts in 1522 days


#1 posted 1475 days ago

Buy the jig,it’s worth the money.

-- Life is good.

View jemillion's profile

jemillion

28 posts in 2050 days


#2 posted 1475 days ago

Jim,

Make sure you buy the hinges first! There are many different opening types… Then just make a jig… It is easy and you wont waste your money on something that you can build just as easy.

THere is a template that comes with all hinges to show you where to drill.

If you can use your drill press then you can just set your fence with stops and you got it made.

Most of the holes are the same size and the depth is the same as well.

Good luck!

View thewoodmaster's profile

thewoodmaster

55 posts in 1791 days


#3 posted 1475 days ago

Home Depot sells a bit and a small “jig.” it’s in the display with the euro cabinet hinges. It’s not really a jig, just a template that lets you mark where to drill the hole. It’s cheap, but it works. I have it and have used it many times. used it last night and realized I need a new bit as the one i have is pretty dull. There are other actual jigs out there, but they can get kind of expensive, and since you’re just doing your own kitchen it might not be worth the price. However, a dedicated hinge jig makes quick work of locating and drilling the holes. You could always sell the jig when you’re done.

-- dan "insert pithy woodworking coment here"

View Sawdustonmyshoulder's profile

Sawdustonmyshoulder

251 posts in 2227 days


#4 posted 1475 days ago

I’m with jemillion. Buy the hinge you want according to your design, use 3/4” MDF to make some test doors, set up a fence on your drill press and test, test, test, and test the fit until you get the spacing you need. Use this one that works best to set up the drill press when you are ready to drill your doors.

I love these hinges because of their ability to be adjusted to fine tune the fit. Once you use them, you’ll leave all those other types behind.

Are you going to make cabinets with face frames? The Blum Compact hinge works great! I used this type the first time I use Euro hinges and found them very easy to set up. I used 3/4” overlay hinges. Here is my first attempt.

-- Makin' Sawdust!!!

View patron's profile

patron

12957 posts in 1940 days


#5 posted 1475 days ago

all the euro-hinges i have used come i ‘center’ position ,
adjust your ‘test’ to that ,
don’t start by messing with the hinge adjustments .
that way you get all the advantage of the adjustments .

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

View jack1's profile

jack1

1907 posts in 2626 days


#6 posted 1475 days ago

Woodmaster has good advice. I’ve got that jig too and it works fine for the ones they sell which are pretty common types. Also do as Patron says. you’ll be very pleased with the ease of adjusting.

-- jack -- ...measure once, curse twice!

View zlatanv's profile

zlatanv

689 posts in 1833 days


#7 posted 1474 days ago

Definitely get the hinge first, your overlay will determine where the whole is from the edge. If you plan on an outside profile on the doors, use a bigger overlay or the forstner bit will poke thru the front edge. Refinished my cabinets a few years ago and replaced all the face frame hinges with euro hinges, had a problem with only two doors where the whole poked thru the outside profile. I used 6 way adjustable face frame ones from CSH Hardware, adjustment is great and hinges were cheap. Do some samples. and like Patron said don’t mess with the settings till the hinge is in place.

-- Z, Rockwall, TX

View vicrider's profile

vicrider

178 posts in 1497 days


#8 posted 1473 days ago

There are a few things to think about when designing for Euro hinges.

First, are you building face frame cabinets or Euro style frameless? Each design requires a different hinge mounting system.

Then, you need to determine the overlay of the door. That is, how much do the doors overlay the cabinet opening on the hinge side. Rockler has a good explanation here…. http://www.rockler.com/articles/understanding-hinges.cfm

Also you might want to consider how far the door opens, standard is 110 degrees, but you can get 180 and 270 degree hinges which are more expensive but allow easier access to the cabinet.

After these considerations, I agree with the previous posters. Buy the hinges first. they will have instructions for drilling the mortises. The process really requires a drill press, the mortises need to be accurately placed, so a back stop and stop blocks are in order. After these are set up, it’s a piece of cake to drill all the doors.

Once you use Euro style hinges on cabinets, it will be very hard to use anything else.

-- vicrider

View jim1953's profile

jim1953

2662 posts in 2440 days


#9 posted 1473 days ago

Iam going to use full overlay hinges because there will no frame All Doors THANKS JIM

-- Jim, Kentucky

View mileskimball's profile

mileskimball

77 posts in 613 days


#10 posted 599 days ago

I’m having a problem on my first time using euro hinges. It’s a face-frame installation, 1/2” overlay, 105 degree hinges.

My problem is that on the hinge side, when the door is closed, there’s a good 3/16” gap between the face frame and the back of the door. If I adjust the hinges to lessen the gap, the door binds when it’s opened.

Do people usually put a bevel on the hinge-side edge of the door for clearance?

Or do you drill the big hinge hole so it’s closer to the hinge edge of the door (thus if the hinge is on the right. shifting the door to the left when closed and away from the frame when opened)? I’m already drilling the hole within 3/16” of the door edge, though, so there’s not much room there to play with. This approach also shifts the overlay so it’s not even on the 2 sides of the door, and my doors and drawers would no longer line up vertically.

-- Miles

Have your say...

You must be signed in to post the comments.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

GardenTenders.com :: gardening showcase