LumberJocks

Table Saw update, and some other things

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Blog entry by Jeremy Greiner posted 02-26-2012 12:22 AM 6569 reads 0 times favorited 3 comments Add to Favorites Watch

One thing I enjoy about woodworking is the “walk away” nature of it. If you are stumped on a project, or just don’t feel like dealing with a certain task you can walk away and come back to it later. For a long while I was having trouble figuring out the best way to glue up the base cabinet that would sit under my sawstop contractor saw. also had the fear of screwing it up and having to start it over, being overwhelmed by these things I set the project aside for a while.

A few weeks ago I had some ideas on how to glue it up and figured I’d just go for it. I drilled the holes for the rubber feet got it all glued up. I used wood filler to fill the voids in the plywood, attached the dust collection PVC fitting (I used gorilla glue so it would fill the gaps since I cut the hole with a jigsaw it wasn’t perfect). I also decided to try out using latex paint instead of milk paint.

After about 3 weeks of working on it off and on, I made it to the triumph today I mounted the saw on the “finished” box. I haven’t screwed it down to the torsion box yet I want to make sure I get the fence set up so the side tables and everything fit on the torsion box base properly.

I’m sorry for the lack of pictures during these steps of the construction process. I couldn’t get a get picture of the saw mounted because there’s alot of stuff in the way. I need to put the crane I used to lift the saw up away.

The sawblade seems to be out of alignment with the miter slot, at least by my rough tests with my combination square. I’m going to make or buy a table saw alignment jig before adding the side wings in case I need to adjust the table’s position to the blade.

Once I get the wings on and more stuff put away so I can take some better pictures I’ll post about some of the things I did like adding weatherstripping foam to the bottom below the saw to help with the small gap.

Last weekend I also experimented with steam bending, I didn’t have a lot of luck the piece I tried to bend snapped I don’t know if it wasn’t in long enough or what. The thing leaks like crazy but it was able to get the steam up to 214F inside the tube so not to bad. I want to seal the holes that the carriage bolts are and put a single hole at one end for water release but it was a fun little experiment.

Once I get this figured out a little better I’ll post more details about my steam bending box, but really it’s a 5’ piece of PVC with a bunch of galvanized steel bolts shoved through it to hold the wood off the bottom. I used screw based ends, but I didn’t seal them on so there shouldn’t be any major pressure situations.

I use a digital meat thermometer that has a built in timer and alarm when you reach a certain temperature and it works pretty well.

That’s pretty much it for me, now to research some table saw alignment jigs

-jeremy

-- Easy to use end grain cutting board designer: http://www.1024studios.com/cuttingboard.html



3 comments so far

View Charles Maxwell's profile

Charles Maxwell

1081 posts in 3270 days


#1 posted 02-26-2012 12:30 AM

For steaming your wood a good rule of thumb is 1 hour in the steam for every 1/4” of thickness. The wood should come out wet and rushed to the bending mold. You have less than 60 seconds to get your wood into the mold. Expect the wood to sit in the mold until it dries – - about 2 hours. Note that when you take the clamps off and pull the wood off the mold it will likely lose some of its bend. You’ll need to practice to ‘over’ bend the wood so that you get it to rest in the shape you need.

-- Max the "night janitor" at www.hardwoodclocks.com

View Woodwrecker's profile

Woodwrecker

3925 posts in 3038 days


#2 posted 02-26-2012 01:14 AM

Nice work on all counts Jeremy.
You’ve been a very busy fellow!

-- Eric, central Florida

View Martyroc's profile

Martyroc

2712 posts in 1769 days


#3 posted 02-27-2012 11:30 PM

Charles is correct, I had built a steam box years ago and saw the plans again in a wood mag. I was making a pipe out 1/2” ply and needed to make it round. I cut some kerfs on the inside them steamed it in a large garbage can. When it was done, I still needed more bend to make the round shape, I was getting impatient, I ended up putting the future pipe in a pot of boiling water, just the bottom and propping it up on a small metal colander. I capped the top with a small ceramic bowl and that sped up the process. Unfortunately it’s very rare I bend something as weird as that. Its one of the weirdest things I have ever tried to bend but I was tight on time and was determined to get this shaped before I had to go somewhere. Here is a pic, I used some small cheesecake pans, (no bottoms) to bend the form, as the wood gave more I just set the clasps tighter


As you can see I am in the middle of a kitchen remodel and the current stove is going out and my double wall oven cabinet is going in, will be nice to get that out of the workshop.

-- Martin ....always count the number of fingers you have before, and after using the saw.

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