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"Fold up" ironing board (reverse engineering) #4: Other important details

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Blog entry by jeff_wenz posted 1322 days ago 1794 reads 1 time favorited 4 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 3: Parts list Part 4 of "Fold up" ironing board (reverse engineering) series no next part

So some important details I have not mentioned yet.

The routed groove:
  • There is 2 ½” inches from the front of the case to the groove.
  • The top of the groove bends in ½”

Heat Shields:
Use aluminum for protection. I purchased a 24×6” piece and cut it in half. I sprayed it with white epoxy appliance spray paint then mounted it with 3M’s Super 77 spray adhesive.

Shelf:
Install in coordination with your heat shields. This put my shelf 12” down from the top.

Electrical Unit:
If you decide to use this, install it as far right as possible. I left about an inch space to the right, but now our iron is a tight fit on the left when in storage. Also, the electrical line comes in from the top. this unit cost around $35. I am glad I got it, but it is also an easy upgrade at a later time assuming getting power to the top of your unit is somewhat easy.

Ironing Board Cover:
Lowes sells a cover that should fit the board dimensions I gave in a previous post. If not, use batting and fabric with elastic to make a padded cover. I rounded over the edges of the board using a 1/8” roundover bit.

Board Height:
Our previous ironing board height was 36” off of the ground. This is a comfortable height for my wife, so when I mounted the completed unit, I made sure the board height was around 36”.

Ok, that is all the info I can think of to share. Please let me know if I can answer any questions. Good luck!

—Jeff

-- Jeff, North Carolina



4 comments so far

View lew's profile

lew

9831 posts in 2257 days


#1 posted 1322 days ago

Great series, Jeff. I like the timer idea. It surely adds to the safety factor.

Lew

-- Lew- Time traveler. Purveyor of the Universe's finest custom rolling pins.

View Adam's profile

Adam

1 post in 1551 days


#2 posted 1314 days ago

Fantastic! I’ve been looking for a “how to” on building a hide away ironing board for some time. Until now the folding and swiveling part had me scratching my head. Now, I have no reason not to cross this project off my to do list. Thanks for posting Jeff.

Adam

-- Life is an adventure made for an adventurer

View mjzraz's profile

mjzraz

4 posts in 1156 days


#3 posted 293 days ago

What is the depth required from face of the frame to the back of the cabinet to get the ironing board in so the door will close? Could it have been flush with the drywall if it were installed in a wall?
I want to do something similar, but I don’t want the face frame sitting on the drywall because my wife actually wants to use an antique shutter as the door or mounted to the door to hide the unit, so the shutter needs to basically end up flush or close to it to the drywall. I guess that leaves me with @4” to work with in a 2×4 wall with drywall.
I think my other challenge will be hinges as the hinge will need to move “out” as we’ll as hinge with the shutter sitting flush

View jeff_wenz's profile

jeff_wenz

123 posts in 2052 days


#4 posted 291 days ago

mjzraz,

Good questions. The minimum distance is 3.5” (which should work perfect for a 2×4 stud wall). But you would still have a door of some type sticking out from the wall). I think a shutter would be great. It would look like the shutter was hanging on the wall, but it could be hinged to the drywall. A large picture frame or canvas (in the appropriate dimensions) would also work good.

A piano hinge would be a good choice. Also, certain European style hinge models actually lift the door away from the wall when opened (that would be fully concealed).

In my particular case, I opted to install the automatic outlet timer hardware, so my depth is 7.5”

-- Jeff, North Carolina

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