As it turns out, I didn’t think to create a blog for the project until after I had already started. So, the top is already done. Construction was pretty straight forward, two layers 3/4 inch MDF with laminate surface and hardwood (soft maple) edging, corners rounded and edges chamfered. I started out with a basic design in Sketchup to calculate my dimensions and where the fence, positioner and lift would go. As I progressed with the build, I made adjustments to different dimensions and ended up with a top that was a little larger than originally planned. I figured I might as well make it as large as the materials would accommodate and there was nothing else dependent on the dimensions at this point – the cabinet still needed to be designed. When it was all done, I was pretty surprised and happy with how it turned out being my first attempt at anything like this.
I don’t know if anyone has ever had this idea before but it could be a helpful tip to someone planning a router table project. My router lift has screws around the perimeter for leveling the plate into the table top. I didn’t know if the leveling screws would wear into the MDF over time from repeated adjustments, vibration or a combination of one because of the other so I wanted to protect the lip the insert rested on. I came up with the idea to use tinner rivets. They are available in different sizes and cheap. I found them in the slide out drawer bins at the hardware store. Don’t confuse these with pop rivets, not the same thing, you can see them in the pictures. I made sure to route the lip for the insert to a depth that would accommodate the head of the rivet and still leave a little room to level the insert up to the table. I set the lift in place and marked the position for the rivets through the holes for the leveling screws. Then drilled holes the size of the rivet body and pushed them into place. Tada! Well, I thought it was a pretty good idea.