With the top done, set the leg assembly in position next to the face vise.
And the end vise slides to make sure everything still fits.
Square everything up and mark the spot where the hex bolts attach the top to the top rail.
I used the top rails as a jig to get the holes straight and drilled from the bottom toward the top to just where the brad point stuck through the top surface. This gave me a pilot for later drilling the counter bore in the top for the ½” bolts that attaches the top to the rop rails.
I used a slightly different setup for drilling the holes for the end caps. After drilling the end caps at the drill press, I clamped the cap in place and used it as a guide for drilling into the end of the bench. Then I used a jig that I don’t have a picture of to position the hole for the barrel (bench) nuts. Here I’m drilling for the 3/8” end cap barrel nuts.
End caps are bolted on with 3/8” hex bolt and barrel nut.
The Jorgensen vise was easy to install. Two screws in the face, and two lag screws into the bottom of the bench.
I plan to glue rawhide to the vise face.
And build a wooden chop, if that’s the right term, for the movable jaw. Because I didn’t mount the top of the Jorgensen jaws flush with the top of the bench, the Jorgensen dog block won’t work. But there are dog holes in the top of the chop,
The Benchcrafted vise was a little more involved.
The first step was to remove the piece of the dog laminate row that was only screwed in, and route a channel in the underside of the bench for the dog block traveler.
Next was to drill out the clearance hole in the end cap for the screw.
And the two mounting bolts, that provide the opposing force to the screw.
Accuracy is critical here to getting a smooth running vise. I calculated the dimensions and measured the spot first, then used the template to mark the same spot. The two were identical so I was confident it was right. Anybody needing to improve the accuracy of their layout may want to consider getting one of the Incra Precision T-Rules. http://www.incra.com/product_t-rules.htm. With them, you can accurately mark lines to 1/64” precision.
Here is another important measure though for the life of me, can’t figure out what it was for.
The placement of the two slides is also critical. Here they are roughed in.
For the Benchcrafted hand wheel to not project above the top of the bench, the end cap needs to be at least 4” tall. For a bench-top that’s thinner than 4”, like mine at 3 & 3/16”, you need to shim the slides. Here I’m holding the slide in the position.
I used a 13/16” shim to match the end cap, and then cut a rabbit in it so the slides would be at the proper depth. This gave a cleaner feel to the bench, though wasn’t necessary. I could have just shimmed the slides. The wagon wheel vise is very smooth. I can give it a hard spin and it will spin up to 9 revolutions from it’s own momentum. When it comes in contact with something to clamp, you can barely turn it 1/8th revolution and everything is immobilized. There is no backlash. It is a high precision quality vise, albiet expensive.
Sand the bottom and seal with a couple coats of WATCO natural Danish oil.
Attach the base, flip it on the legs, sand it and two coats of WATCO.
And viola a new bench. In three days.
OK, maybe I didn’t build it in 3 days, more like 6 weeks, but at least I blogged it in 3 days.
-- Trees, a wonderful gift --Joe--