Some notes:

-I would have taken pictures of taping and masking, but I couldn’t find my camera charger. Anyways, it is pretty straightfoward; tape everything that wasn’t painted.

-Also, I roll up pieces of paper towel in a ball and put them into the screw holes.

- as far as taping the sides, I don’t, because I like to lap them after they are put back together, due to blade tention and such, I think this is best. Also, thet get little overspray during the painting process, so no biggie.
- I will be letting this paint dry for a week or more (suggested cure time-7days) this is epoxy enamel, satin. I am debating on putting a light coat of wax on the shoes to deter wood dust and such, any suggestions?

Well, hopefully you can make up my painting set up. It is basically a box fan pointed outward into an old cushionwith drop cloth all around, and under a fold up table. There is a vaccume bag taped to the back of the fan which sucks up alot of the overspray and residuals of the paint. This setup is a little “red/green”, but it seems to work pretty well. —please tell me someone has seen the red/ green show—

I find that nothing works as good as kleen strip paint remover on the jappaning. I wasted money on the orange stuff, which does smell great, but dosen’t preform well on jappaning.

I have a system of painting the adjustment levers, which could be improved, because I ended up painting my fingers alot. I basically wittle some dowels and stick them on , epoxy, and then hang them . Maybe I should use longer dowels to relieve the painted fingers….hmm….

Included is my orginization system, which consists of boxes with the contents of the original planes parts. Also, every step is done in sequence. I basically keep the shoes and frogs in the same order whenever I do anything to them. This goes for everything else. I will make changes like a brass knob for a steel one. I have a spares box on my table.

Right now I am working on 1-3, 5-4’s and 4-5’s , I am also in the earlier process of doing 2-6’s and 2-7’s, unfortunatly, on these last 4, 2 need frogs and 3 need lever caps , and the 6’s and 7’s I have are type 11-13’s so these parts are costly and more rare. Hopefully I can ebay some of these to get the necessary parts.

I am happy to answer any questions .

-Thanks for checking this out, here are the pics:

Notes(its late, so please excuse the irratic ):
I use pliable wire attached to alligator clips for my derustification ( negative lead attached to planes) the Postitive ( rust collectors peek out of the water and rest on the edge. Have some more rust collecting metal on the end that is submerged.
I go through a few stages of electrolysis and paint stripping- to get it down to the metal. And I put them in whole (minus tote/knob) on the first go around. After that its scrub city to remove the oxidation( byproduct)
I use evaporust to keep the cast iron from flash rusting. This seems to happen within an hour
I strip the nickle off if it looks pretty bad, them sand/ polish the cast iron lever( I actually prefer the look vs. peeling nickle)
If the totes are rosewood and look cruddy but not broken, the buffing wheel does wonders.
Painted totes can look good with about 20 coats of enamel (3rd pic w/black)
The 3 has some war production characteristics the first 4 is probably pre war and the second 4 is just post war I believe.

DANGER! Electrolysis is easy, but make sure to learn all about the risks and dangers, there are enough! Please understand this would be a very incomplete guide on Electolysis.

And off we go: