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Hand plane restoring #3: painting and progress

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Blog entry by jchomme posted 1620 days ago 2519 reads 2 times favorited 6 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 2: Restoring is addictive Part 3 of Hand plane restoring series no next part

Here are some updated pics of my process. I am doing a bunch now and it is a little pretty labor intensive , but well worth it. Have alot of extra time this weekend, so I decided to do my 5’s as well. Progress is pretty good. Now, time to relaxand let dry!

Some notes:

-I would have taken pictures of taping and masking, but I couldn’t find my camera charger. Anyways, it is pretty straightfoward; tape everything that wasn’t painted.

-Also, I roll up pieces of paper towel in a ball and put them into the screw holes.

- as far as taping the sides, I don’t, because I like to lap them after they are put back together, due to blade tention and such, I think this is best. Also, thet get little overspray during the painting process, so no biggie.
- I will be letting this paint dry for a week or more (suggested cure time-7days) this is epoxy enamel, satin. I am debating on putting a light coat of wax on the shoes to deter wood dust and such, any suggestions?

Well, hopefully you can make up my painting set up. It is basically a box fan pointed outward into an old cushionwith drop cloth all around, and under a fold up table. There is a vaccume bag taped to the back of the fan which sucks up alot of the overspray and residuals of the paint. This setup is a little “red/green”, but it seems to work pretty well. —please tell me someone has seen the red/ green show—

I find that nothing works as good as kleen strip paint remover on the jappaning. I wasted money on the orange stuff, which does smell great, but dosen’t preform well on jappaning.

I have a system of painting the adjustment levers, which could be improved, because I ended up painting my fingers alot. I basically wittle some dowels and stick them on , epoxy, and then hang them . Maybe I should use longer dowels to relieve the painted fingers….hmm….

Included is my orginization system, which consists of boxes with the contents of the original planes parts. Also, every step is done in sequence. I basically keep the shoes and frogs in the same order whenever I do anything to them. This goes for everything else. I will make changes like a brass knob for a steel one. I have a spares box on my table.

Right now I am working on 1-3, 5-4’s and 4-5’s , I am also in the earlier process of doing 2-6’s and 2-7’s, unfortunatly, on these last 4, 2 need frogs and 3 need lever caps , and the 6’s and 7’s I have are type 11-13’s so these parts are costly and more rare. Hopefully I can ebay some of these to get the necessary parts.

I am happy to answer any questions .

-Thanks for checking this out, here are the pics:










6 comments so far

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

111999 posts in 2173 days


#1 posted 1620 days ago

I was wondering about the same thing tom put so well. Your planes look great. I’m I understanding you right that your taking this aproach on a #1 stanley?

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View jchomme's profile

jchomme

29 posts in 1631 days


#2 posted 1620 days ago

I don’t know if I’d do this on #1 stanley or a #2 for that matter. Plus I don’t think I could afford either. It is kinda hard to word what Ive got with the numbers and such.
As of now I have :
-five # 4’s (including a very old union-excited to try)
-One # 3
-and four #5’s
-Also I have two 6’s and two 7’s ( one of each is corrigated)
- I read that number 1’s and 2’s are usually in decient shape because they get little use over their lives.

Thanks for the heads up on the venting and fume issue with the box fan. I will definatly revamp my setup. I have some induction motors and busted shop vac that could come in handy.

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

111999 posts in 2173 days


#3 posted 1620 days ago

That’s good what your doing looks great but it would hurt the value of the #1 or #2

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View jchomme's profile

jchomme

29 posts in 1631 days


#4 posted 1620 days ago

Yeah, you are spot on. I would never try and restore a 1 or 2. I think if I wanted a #1 or #2 user, id go with a LN. As for these more common planes, I think they should be used… plus I think its cool to use something that is 50-90ish years old that look and preforms better than most out today( not counting the premiums:LV,LN,ect.) I have seen the Anants at Higland, which are suppose to be pretty good, but I’d choose a good, old Stanley-Bailey any day. Not to mention one can be had for less $$$.

View WayneC's profile

WayneC

12246 posts in 2694 days


#5 posted 1620 days ago

Agree with Jim. Be sure the plane does not have collector value before you clean and repaint.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

View jchomme's profile

jchomme

29 posts in 1631 days


#6 posted 1619 days ago

Very good advice indeed. I basically look for sound planes. All of these are type 14-19. Everything is sound, but the paint wasn’t good on any of them. I am repdoing a few 13’s and I have a 12, but they were pretty rusted with virtually no jappaning. One was painted head to toe in purple metallic paint. Luckily almost all have been perfectly sound restorers IMO. Can’t wait till I stumble on that elusive #1 at a flea market or yard sale!

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