I guess this is kind of a venting process. Ive recently restored a few Bailey’s (#3 and 2-4’s) and its getting addictive. Ive cleaned some and Ive tuned some but putting a fresh coat of paint, polishing the brass, and refurbing the totes and knobs is very rewarding. Ive accumulated more baileys than I need, but when I see one I want to make it shine again(hopefuly better). Amongst other hand plane stuff I am “refurbing” my 4’s. ended up with a union in the deal, and I must say its one of the most interesting I have ( has the 2nd stanley type frog/reciever and a really thick blade). Ill start with some before and afters ive done then show my Electrolysis setup to show the process/progress. BTW, I used Epoxy enamel for my paint( this will be shown later on)
Also, I take all precautions with the electrolysis process I can think of. Setting it to low and letting it work its magic for a day seems to work. Also, I “shield” the anode and cathode with plastic paint screens just as an overprecaution.
Notes(its late, so please excuse the irratic ):
I use pliable wire attached to alligator clips for my derustification ( negative lead attached to planes) the Postitive ( rust collectors peek out of the water and rest on the edge. Have some more rust collecting metal on the end that is submerged.
I go through a few stages of electrolysis and paint stripping- to get it down to the metal. And I put them in whole (minus tote/knob) on the first go around. After that its scrub city to remove the oxidation( byproduct)
I use evaporust to keep the cast iron from flash rusting. This seems to happen within an hour
I strip the nickle off if it looks pretty bad, them sand/ polish the cast iron lever( I actually prefer the look vs. peeling nickle)
If the totes are rosewood and look cruddy but not broken, the buffing wheel does wonders.
Painted totes can look good with about 20 coats of enamel (3rd pic w/black)
The 3 has some war production characteristics the first 4 is probably pre war and the second 4 is just post war I believe.
DANGER! Electrolysis is easy, but make sure to learn all about the risks and dangers, there are enough! Please understand this would be a very incomplete guide on Electolysis.
And off we go:



















7 comments so far
jchomme
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29 posts in 1206 days
#1 posted 1200 days ago
BTW washing soda is easilly found at the super market( havn’t found it at wal mart tho)
Bubbles are good!
Had to throw a brass knob on the 3 it was a hard rubber type (I had a spare)
bigike
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4023 posts in 1460 days
#2 posted 1200 days ago
nice job, keep it up
-- Ike, Big Daddies Woodshop, http://www.icombadaniels@yahoo.com
crosseyedcarver
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224 posts in 1208 days
#3 posted 1200 days ago
Your doing a Great Job! I can see why it has become addictive. They Look great.
-- Tim, Tallahasse FL
8iowa
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1442 posts in 1932 days
#4 posted 1200 days ago
Nice work. The old “girls” still have a lot of useful life in them.
-- "Heaven is North of the Bridge"
a1Jim
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87305 posts in 1748 days
#5 posted 1199 days ago
Great job
I get my washing Soda at ace hardware.
-- W James Brokenbourgh Custom furniture maker http://artisticwoodstudio.com/
Necro
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16 posts in 1215 days
#6 posted 1199 days ago
What kind of current did you hook up to it?
jchomme
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29 posts in 1206 days
#7 posted 1199 days ago
I have a battery charger with a few option on it. They all work, but I set it to 2Amps 12 volts. 6 amps works more aggressivly and works well. I have found that if the positive( rust collecting metal) and negative(the rusty planes)are closer to each other the whole reaction works fine with the 2A 12V setting. That is my I use the painters screen to help make sure there is no contact ( just make sure nothing pokes through). Also, they are cheap($.50 each) , and they make hooking everything up easier than having to hang and suspend the stuff in the container. Also, It is pretty easy to clean the rust collecting pieces because they are flat, so a quick scrub and they are ready to go again. Sorry for the long winded answer, forfot to mention some of this. Hope it helps.
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