LumberJocks

my first blog ever/ how I made the round box.

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Blog entry by Jim Sellers posted 10-01-2012 09:13 PM 3755 reads 4 times favorited 8 comments Add to Favorites Watch

Due to popular demand I’m attempting my very first blog for those who wanted to see how I put together my round box. I’ve had a couple of 30” sections of a column left over from a remodeling job I did over 10 yrs. ago. I always knew I’d find a use for them. First step is to rip them in half. I’d recommend a sled or an extra rail on the table saw to ensure straight cuts. They’re too thick and need to be thinned down. The best way I’ve found to do this is to use your table saw as a planer. I didn’t figure this out until after I had used a hand held circular saw on the first one. Had to remove the base to get enough depth and make about 50 plunge cuts every ¼ inch then remove what’s left with a gouge. But that’s dangerous so don’t even think about it.



I missed some photo ops during the marking and cutting the veneers. When I’m using multiple pieces of the same shape I always like to make a template of heavy gauge sheet metal for marking. Heavy duty scissors worked great for cutting the red wood but with the maple it chipped and tore the edges even with it taped. Speaking of tape, if your veneer is not paper backed, you have to tape it. On the finished side. Just use plain yellow masking tape. 2 reasons for this. It holds the wood together especially when cutting smaller pieces and it protects the surface from glue smears and scratches during the build. I even tape the paper backed stuff for this reason.
If you decide to build one of these, since it gets wrapped in veneer, be creative and choose your own design or pattern. I’m already thinking of something different for the next one. It’s time consuming gluing so many pieces. Aprox 15 min. set time per piece. But there’s always other pieces to cut while you wait. Notice the band and wedge I used for clamping. If you do this be sure to use a piece of plastic or wax paper in between to keep from gluing the band to the box.

For the knob, I cut a sheet metal template and bent it the basic shape I wanted. Take a cut piece (not taped), wet it down good, clamp it to the bent metal and dry it with a heat gun. (or a blow dryer.) I think a curling iron might work for this. I don’t own a curling iron for obvious reasons. Curl a few more of the proper size changing the grain directions to glue to the underside of the flap. So basically you’re making a small piece of plywood under the flap about 1/8”. I was amazed at how strong this was. No bending or flexing whatsoever.


I think this covers most everything of relevance. If anyone has questions I’ll try to answer them

-- J.C.Sellers, Norcross, Ga. Just cut it right the first time. The best carpenters make the fewest chips.



8 comments so far

View Roger's profile

Roger

15039 posts in 1522 days


#1 posted 10-01-2012 09:52 PM

Holy Moly! That’s a lotta blade up in the air!! Very kool, and, I think I woulda been a bit nervous runnin that over the blade

-- Roger from KY. Work/Play/Travel Safe. Kentuk55@bellsouth.net

View Dan'um Style's profile

Dan'um Style

13167 posts in 2701 days


#2 posted 10-01-2012 10:06 PM

nice work… very informative. What glue did you use and how did you apply it?

-- keeping myself entertained ... Humor and fun lubricate the brain

View Alexandre's profile

Alexandre

1417 posts in 909 days


#3 posted 10-01-2012 11:07 PM

I like your work… Definitly not for me :P
I would buy/make a bandsaw with that much capacity as I would be scared of the wood collapsing into the table saw blade.
Thanks for the info though :P

-- My terrible signature...

View Jim Sellers's profile

Jim Sellers

275 posts in 1053 days


#4 posted 10-01-2012 11:45 PM

Dan, just regular yellow wood glue (titebond III). Applied it right out of the bottle. spread it with my finger (I’m kinky that way and like to peel it off when it dries) Roger and alexandre, it’s not as dangerous as it looks. You’re using the saw as a planer and only shaving a small fraction at a time. I made 20 or 30 passes on each piece raising the blade a fuzz till I got it topped out. And I did use a push stick. I ain’t skeared. I respect power tools and know what they can do but I don’t let them intimidate me.

-- J.C.Sellers, Norcross, Ga. Just cut it right the first time. The best carpenters make the fewest chips.

View shipwright's profile

shipwright

5213 posts in 1516 days


#5 posted 10-02-2012 12:17 AM

Sweet Jim.
I like everything about it and I agree about respect vs. fear.

-- Paul M ..............If God wanted us to have fiberglass boats he would have given us fiberglass trees. http://prmdesigns.com/

View BertFlores58's profile

BertFlores58

1646 posts in 1640 days


#6 posted 10-02-2012 01:38 AM

Hi Jim,
Congratulations on your first blog. It is just the beginning of exchanging knowledge and skills. I admire your ways of doing the safer way. I have seen the method of making cove for molding however with smaller radius of that sector. Same as Paul, the courage and courtesy in you is one attitude of a competent woodworker.
Keep it going. Thanks

-- Bert

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

11346 posts in 1408 days


#7 posted 10-02-2012 01:54 AM

Wow! I can’t believe you hollowed that column with the tablesaw. Lots of great ideas here; the wedged band clamp, the curled lift, etc. You sir are a hand! Thanks for taking the time to post this excellent blog.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View DeLayne Peck's profile

DeLayne Peck

352 posts in 920 days


#8 posted 10-02-2012 06:54 AM

Getting a “Wow” from gfadvm is an Emmy in woodworking. I admire his work. Your project is out-of-sight. Pick out something with a high neckline to wear on the Red Carpet.

-- DJ Peck, Lincoln Nebraska. I think of my shop as Fritter City. I am the Mayor.

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