Yesterday I took the end cap and cut out two mortises first using a spade bit and then chiseling it square.
I had to trim the tenons down a bit to fit in, and when I was squaring the small mortise, part of the end grain wall broke away leaving me with a big gap. I really didn’t want to make another end cap and do all of this work again, so I think I’m going to go with it for now. If I decide later I can’t live with it, I can just take it off and make another one. The plan is to just have it bolted on with the big gnarly SPAX screws that Benchcrafted recommends for using a tenon instead of dovetails for the face board. I decided I didn’t want to tackle the dovetail for this project.
Next up was to drill the 1 – 3/4” recess with a forester bit 3/16” deep for the washer, and bore through with a 1 – 1/2” forester bit for the lead screw.
Then I could put the lead screw in and bolt in place and see where my rails need to go. I marked them leaving about 1/16” or less wiggle room, then routed them out. During this process I’ve had the big SPAX screws in and out so many times that I can almost run them in by hand most of the way now. They still tighten very nicely.
I had to remove the vise one last time then run both top halves through the planer and I ended up right at 4” thick. I know I’ll have some discrepancy between the two when they get put on the base but I plan on hand planing that out, it shouldn’t be too much.
The last thing for today was to crosscut both halves to final length. I decided to make it 84” instead of the designed 87” long. I’ve got a small shop and losing 3” isn’t a real big deal.
Well, that’s pretty much it for the tops until they’re mounted on the base. Next up is starting with the legs and rails.
Thanks for reading, and have a great day.
-- "I am endeavoring, ma'am, to construct a mnemonic memory circuit using stone knives and bear skins."