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Router table for my Unisaw #2: Cut out the center, mount the plate

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Blog entry by ic3ss posted 1112 days ago 2164 reads 0 times favorited 1 comment Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 1: Laminating MDF panels Part 2 of Router table for my Unisaw series Part 3: Pretty much done except a few finishing items »

The table has been sitting for a couple of weeks while I took care of other stuff, all the while I’ve been contemplating how to arrange the table, like the T slots, miter slot, router insert, insert levelers, etc. I used three panels of 3/4” MDF thinking that it would be nice and rigid and wouldn’t bow over time. The problem is this thing is so damn heavy at 2 1/4” thick that after adding a router, it’s going to be so far out on the fence rails that I’m afraid it may tip the saw over if I lean on it. I’m thinking now of routing some recesses out in a few places on the bottom to save weight.

I pushed the router insert back from center about 1.5” and cut the hole out. Just that was a four hour deal ‘cause I didn’t have a reciprocating saw. Instead I had to drill holes and cut dot-to-dot with a hand saw. It sucked and now my hand and arm are sore. I found myself at Lowes yesterday and I think I’m going to pick up a reciprocating saw pretty soon. I’m not much interested in repeating that any time soon. Anyway, I digress. . . .

Today I found that the way I cut the corners in the insert hole, I cut too far back to allow for the lock down bolts. Modification: I drilled the lockdown bolt holes in the MDF at an 8ยบ angle so the brass thread insert would be at the bottom where it’s surrounded with MDF and won’t tear out. This angle will be slight enough that the countersunk screw head will still be below grade of the plate.

I picked up these 1/4-20 brass screw inserts for the lockdown screws, and for 8 leveling screws. For the leveling screws I used teflon bolts. I couldn’t find any long enough to go all the way through the 2 1/4” thick top so I could adjust the level from below the table without removing the insert. The way it is, I’ll have to remove the insert, make an adjustment, put insert back in and bolt it down, then check level. Eventually I’ll find some teflon screws long enough.

I routed the T slot channel 15” from the back. This will allow the fence to be adjusted pretty much anywhere. Then I found that I lost the screws that came with the kit from Rockler that screw down the T track. Where the T track ends is where I’ll cut another channel for the miter slot.

I just want to ask you all a question: how much do you really use the miter slot on a router table? Is it worth putting in? I had a thought of putting another T track in it’s place thinking that I would benefit more from having extra places to put hold-downs. I dunno, what do you think?

Here’s the router table’s future home on the side of my Unisaw:

Thanks for looking,

-Wayne

-- "I am endeavoring, ma'am, to construct a mnemonic memory circuit using stone knives and bear skins."



1 comment so far

View dub560's profile

dub560

606 posts in 1508 days


#1 posted 1111 days ago

nice one..i have craftmans table but my router broke

-- Life is enjoyable especially when you borrow from people

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