At the end of the last post in this series I was beginning to try to repair a crack, or gap, that was between the upper left tenon shoulder of the bottom rail and the left stile. I had super glued a small sliver of wood into the crack, which worked OK, actually. It doesn’t look awesome, but it looks way better than it did with a large black void there. I figure that once I stain and finish, it won’t be so obvious. It’s only really obvious when you get up close.
But there was still a little hole underneath where I repaired that didn’t get filled and it bothers me.
You can see it in the picture above. When I was considering how to fix it I remembered seeing a video on doing inlay and they basically just sanded the inlay while wet glue was still on it and the mixture of saw dust and glue got down into the cracks around the inlay to hide all of the gaps. So I thought I’d try something similar.
There was still a bunch of saw dust left on the drill press from when I sanded the curve in the bottom rail.
I took some of it and taped around the hole and got a toothpick to mash the glue and sawdust down into the crack.
Then I let it dry and sanded it down a bit. It actually worked although I still don’t like the inconsistent look. It looks rough up close, but hard to notice from away. It’s my first repair attempt, so I’m content with it, I guess. I keep telling myself that it’s better than the black void that was there before.
Then I cut and glued the lower shelf onto the frame. The clamps were pulling it out of square so I used another quick clamp to pull it back into square.
So now it was on to the cove on the table saw. I was nervous about doing this because it just seemed like it was a really advanced technique, but after I got done I thought that it wasn’t that bad. And I was super happy that I actually pulled it off. Doing stuff like this gives me such a level of fulfillment that I’ll never experience at work, which is why I love woodworking.
I watched a video on FineWoodworking.com that explained how to do it. The plans said to set the guide up at 30 degrees to the blade, but the way I saw on the video made it so much more easy to understand so I did it that way.
I measured out and marked both ends of the workpiece.
Then I set the guide up (all I had that was straight was this big piece of melamine). I set it up in position just like the video said to do it.
I started the blade really low, then just worked my way up until I got to my lines. And it actually worked. Sweet.
Then I had to set the blade to 45 degrees and make a few other cuts. I couldn’t get my blade as low as the plans for one cut, so I was forced to modify slightly, which left a small lip of wood.
I didn’t really know how to get rid of the lip at first and tried sandpaper, but that was taking too long. I wish I had a block plane or something, but I ended up using my chisel and taking a little off at a time.
It worked. I still have to sand off the burn marks, but this is what it looked like after.
Looks kind of weird by itself, but I guess once I cut it in smaller pieces and set them between some corbels underneath the shelf it will look like it does in the plan, which is very nice.
I planned on working on the corbels today, but my daughter just woke up from her nap, so it may be late tonight if I even get the chance at all…
-- Chris, http://www.youtube.com/CMRwoodworks , Proverbs 16:9