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Toy costruction #18: Drilling rig #2

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Blog entry by htl posted 02-13-2016 07:03 PM 1012 reads 0 times favorited 10 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 17: Well Drilling Rig 1 Part 18 of Toy costruction series Part 19: Drill Rig #3 »

Well got another fairly warm day in the shop 50 degrees F.

Cut out the derrick sides and made a glue up jig to hold them together while I added the cross braces.
This is a little trickery because there are only three sides to it.

This is one of the great things about these plans, just copy, print out the plans, glue them to some wood clamp it up and you have all the angles and places to drill marked out.

Now glue on the braces and every thing will stay in place till the glue hardens.

There’s 9 pages to these plans and it gets quite confusing keeping it all straight so I used colored pencils to color match all the different views of the parts.
Many parts are buried under other parts and very hard to see.
The top of a part may be in one view the bottom may show on another page or in three places on one page so coloring them helps you connect the dotes so to speak and find them quicker.

Here’s my super duper mitering saw for really small parts.
I use this a lot so really need to build a better jig.

The derricks main cylinder is 10” long so drilling it out was quite interesting.
This is a 1/2” oak dowel drilled with a 1/4” bit.
I love these Harbor Frieght drill bits they get er done their 25” long.

Just put the dump truck in there so you could see how big this thing is going to be.
The truck is half the size of the Toy&Joys trucks.

Happy modeling.

-- There's a hundred ways to do anything, alot depends on the tools at hand.



10 comments so far

View Dutchy's profile

Dutchy

2022 posts in 1635 days


#1 posted 02-13-2016 07:35 PM

Many parts are buried under other parts and very hard to see. I know that problem.

How do you drill a 1/4 hole in a 1/2 dowel of 10” long. By me that always goes a bit awry. So I’m very curious.

-- My englisch is bad but how is your dutch?

View htl's profile

htl

2223 posts in 626 days


#2 posted 02-13-2016 08:08 PM

Dutchy It’s in the pictures how i did it.
I thought about making a how to about it but the jig you see [Dowel Crafter ] is 30 something years old and hasn’t been made in years so not much help to any one.
I had one years ago and a friend borrowed it and lost it and have been looking on eBay off an on for years, then 3 months ago a guy up in Alaska had one on eBay and I grabbed that thing up quick!!!
I love this doweling jig, it drills 2 hole at a time for face frame work.
I’ll get some pictures of it later today.
If your still interested I can tell you how I did it and maybe you can substitute the Dowel Crafter with something else.

-- There's a hundred ways to do anything, alot depends on the tools at hand.

View JoeinGa's profile

JoeinGa

7488 posts in 1474 days


#3 posted 02-13-2016 08:47 PM

Looking good so far. Lots of little parts to handle !

-- Perform A Random Act Of Kindness Today ... Pay It Forward

View Dutchy's profile

Dutchy

2022 posts in 1635 days


#4 posted 02-13-2016 09:02 PM

I have looked again and googled on Dowel Crafter. You could say that we call that jig a boor bril (can’t find a translation or a picture) A boor bril is guiding the drill. But what I don’t understand is that you can drill a hole 10” long all parellel over the full length. When the centerpoint of a CV or HSS drill has a 0,05mm of center centerpoint it will run sideways. Also a drill of that length is mostly not 100% parallel. But whatever it is I will look for such thing like a Dowel Crafter. Thanks Bruce for your help.

-- My englisch is bad but how is your dutch?

View htl's profile

htl

2223 posts in 626 days


#5 posted 02-13-2016 09:18 PM

Dutchy the simplest way to do it with out the jig is.
May want to try it first with some pine then if it work alright make another with something that will last longer.
Get a 2×6 pine? plain all side square, need to drill a 1/4” hole all the way through it, in the center of the 5 1/2” side[needs to be as parallel as possible].
Now you need to drill a 1/2” hole 1/3 of the way through in the same hole as the 1/4” hole.
Now put a 1/2” dowel in the 1/2” hole and need to find a way to clamp it so it doesn’t move.
Now take a 1/4” drill bit and using the 1/4 hole as a guide drill out the 1/2” dowel.
I would drill half way throw then turn it around and drill from the other end.
The hole in the center isn’t perfect but since the plans call for a 3/16” dowel the small imperfection in the center of the dowel works out OK.
Hope this helps.
I use the dowel crafter to hold the 1/2” dowel so it stays straight and have the 1/4 hole lined up to work..
Maybe now look at the picture again and you can see what I did.

-- There's a hundred ways to do anything, alot depends on the tools at hand.

View htl's profile

htl

2223 posts in 626 days


#6 posted 02-13-2016 11:47 PM

Hope this helps.

After I finished with my 10” dowel and then made a 6” one, I tried making some smaller ones
3” and just drill throw one side and they would blow out the end.
But I had drilled ten holes by then and I think it was getting loss
and out of alignment.

When I did my first ones for my excavator I used a brad point drill bit
and they didn’t blow out the end on the 3” dowels.
Ps you don’t need the Dowel Crafter thats just what I had and have liked using for many years.

Here’s what the Dowel Crafter looks like, the holes can be move around for different heights, and it’s great for doing dowels for face frames like everyone did back in the 1980s.
The doweled lumber would come out flush every time.
Was great for on the job work.

-- There's a hundred ways to do anything, alot depends on the tools at hand.

View htl's profile

htl

2223 posts in 626 days


#7 posted 02-14-2016 01:29 AM

Am I having fun with this or what. LOL

Plain the board so all edges are parallel.
I would think the longer you make the guide on the 1/2 hole side the better.
Drill the 1/4” hole all the way throw the board
Then drill the 1/2” hole half way throw or what feels right.
It has to line up just right.
Cut the board on the 1/2” drilled holes side and make notches so you can
clamp the dowel so it can’t move.
Then split the notch so it can close around the dowel.
Drill the dowel half way throw then flip and finish it.

After all this some one will show us a much better way. LOL

-- There's a hundred ways to do anything, alot depends on the tools at hand.

View Dutchy's profile

Dutchy

2022 posts in 1635 days


#8 posted 02-14-2016 01:09 PM

Bruce thank you very much for your nice and complete exlpanation. TOP. I now fully understand what is going on. Thanks again.

-- My englisch is bad but how is your dutch?

View crowie's profile

crowie

1498 posts in 1418 days


#9 posted 02-14-2016 11:26 PM

Thank you Bruce, I’ll have to keep an eye out for one….

-- Lifes good, Enjoy each new day...... Cheers from "On Top DownUnder" Crowie

View LittleBlackDuck's profile

LittleBlackDuck

613 posts in 288 days


#10 posted 03-15-2016 01:47 PM

Dutchy and htl, While I haven’t got a bottomless wallet I’m like a woman in a shoe shop when it comes to tools.
I use a Collet chuck on my lathe to drill holes up to 8” long (never needed to go as far as 10”) in smaller dowels. I specifically bought the ones from Beall Tools Company (though similar is available here in Australia), however, I cannot readily get the oversized collets that they supply. They’re not cheap but I reckon worth it,
http://www.bealltool.com/products/turning/colletchuck.php
I still start off with a standard drill bit, followed by the closest drill bit to half the length of the work piece and then repeat from the other end. I do use an oversized bit to hog out the middle with the collet tightened around the middle to prevent/minimize potential blowout.
P.S. my lathe spindle has a 3/4” hollow shaft through it which accommodates longish lengths of small diameter dowel. I also make pens so I use a drill press pen blank drilling jig (good for up to 6” square/rectangular timber). press

-- There's two ways to do things... My way or the right way.. LBD

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