With the T2 installed, it was time to do some tweaking to the setup and install some table extensions. I had read in a few other posts about loosening the bolts holding the aluminum faces to the fence to close up the gap between fence and table top. I placed the fence upside down on workbench and loosened the bolts from the bottom side of the fence. This let the main fence tube drop down which was really up since fence was upside down. After tightening the bolts, I checked clearance and it is about 1/8”. Here’s a picture of some 1/4” luan against the fence (there’s a chunk of wood holding the luan down).
Next task was to install an extension to the right side of saw to fill in the gap between the longer rails of the T2 fence. I have some commercial quality solid core doors from a renovation and cut a piece of that to fit between the rails. I used lag bolts (5/16” X 2”) to screw in from the rear rail and existing web extension. For the front rail, I needed large wood screw type bolts but our local Ace didn’t have any large enough. I ended up getting some flair head type machine bolts and matching threaded inserts.
Test fitting piece of solid core door.
Next was a rear extension/outfeed support. With the old fence, I had setup about a 10” rear outfeed extension. I also keep a 2’ X 4’ work/router table behind the saw for extra outfeed support. It is also made from a piece of solid core door with plywood L legs. I like having enough gap between the saw and table so I can move all the way around table when using it for assembly, finishing, etc. I used to just scoot the table up to the saw for outfeed support and scoot it back for other uses. This time, I’m going to make a 3/4” plywood “bridge” that is 2’ wide that I can easily set in place on some cleats when outfeed support is needed.
For the outfeed extension, I bolted a piece of 3/4” oak to the sides of the table saw and let them extend about 10” beyond the rear of table top. I the attached a piece of 3/4” X 2” poplar (didn’t have long enough piece of oak scrap) to the end of the oak supports. I ran some short supports from the piece of poplar to some aluminum angle attached with same bolts holding rear rail on. I glued & screwed cleats to the side and rear framing forming a 3/4” rabbit for a plywood top. I then routed dados for miter slot clearance. Finished with some dark walnut stain and Johnson’s paste wax. I still need to add either some legs or braces angled back to saw base to keep rear at right height. I did remove the little metal clip that holds the rear of fence down. It had about 1/2” lift with it in place. As mentioned in other posts here at LJ, if I need to use a feather board I’ll rig up T-track or magnetic clamp for the rear of fence.
Framing all in place
Had ti chisel out area for motor clearance when blade tilted to 45 degrees
Dry fit before screwing down
Finished and waxed…ready for use :-)