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portable handheld mortising jig "build blog" #12: adding the latch, and upgrading the length stops.

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Blog entry by hobby1 posted 11-16-2013 04:01 AM 844 reads 0 times favorited 2 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 11: making the handles complete with tapers, using my tapering jig. Part 12 of portable handheld mortising jig "build blog" series Part 13: short video mortise jig »

I was able to get a couple hours in this evening for machining parts.

I’m using a cabinet door bullet catch latch,

———————-

to lock the router subbase assembly, should I use the jig in a upright position, this latch will allow me to latch the router while I move the jig to a new location to make another mortise, on the board.

Now I’m not happy with the smallish rod I was using for the mortise length stops to fasten onto, the rods were very thin 1/4” dia., so the thread was a small 6-32 tpi, to fit on the edge of the 3/8” thick subbase assembly, a wrong bump and the rods could break off in the base, not good,

So first I enlarged the clamping holes in each stop to 3/8” dia., then I took a piece of 1/2” round bar stock and drilled and tapped one end to 5/16-18 tpi, then took a bolt with that thread, locktighted it in, and cut the head off to produce the thread for the bar, then I turned the whole bar down to 3/8” dia, to recieve the clamping stops.
Here you can see the original rods at the bottom compared to the larger rods with the stops assembled to them at the top.

so I decided to beef up these rods, because I know to get the full use out of this jig, I need to be able to set up stops for drilling dowel holes as well as mortise lengths.

Now since these rods are to thick to fit on the edge of the subbase assembly, I need to add these rectangular bars, to recieve the larger threaded shafts, of the new stop assemblies.

now these stops can be used without the concern of them breaking off.

After those were made I turned down 4 round feet to elevate the jig enough to allow free moving of the stops.

I want to next machine out 2 slots on the main fence, to allow stops and work positioning fences to be clamped to, for any kind of special doweling or mortising such as picture frames or any kind of angular cuts that require the work piece to be held at an angle to the face of the jig.
The slots will be placed at the best location for ample clamping.
These lines are drawn to be reminders of this next stage in the build.

I need also to make accomodations to clamp the jig to my work table with “tee” bolts, and another feature to allow the jig to be clamped in the jaws of my workmate as well.

Another accessory, I need to fabricate, is an adjustable angle fence that can be put on the jig for doing dowel holes or mortises in bevel edges as well, such as compound miters and things.
This fence like the main fence will be removable, should I want to change fence systems, or just use the jig on the face of a board with no fence at all.

I still have a few more accessories to build for this before I can really make the most use of it in my woodworking.

have fun in the shop.



2 comments so far

View stefang's profile

stefang

13623 posts in 2079 days


#1 posted 11-16-2013 09:13 AM

An epic build. Good progress.

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

View hobby1's profile

hobby1

292 posts in 1042 days


#2 posted 11-17-2013 01:21 AM

Hi Mike,
Thankyou,
It’s at this stage of the build process, where I’m seeing how to improve on different parts of this project, so its best to address these issues now, while its still in the build stages.

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