Now I will first machine a small taper on the handle top, I will use one of the bars I just threaded as a mandrel to hold a handle top onto, then I will set up to machine a taper.
Because I don’t need to use the tailstock to support the workpiece, I can adjust the compound slide to the desired angle, a person aquainted with machining, will see in this setup the taper is being cut the opposite way it is usually done on a lathe, however it still works.
now instead of machining a large chamfer on the front end of the handle top, I decided to just work it to a round profile usiong a file, with the lathe running.
The piece on the left was not yet worked by hand filing the one on the right is after the finish filing.
now both handle tops are finished with all the profiling
I now want to enlarge the thread from 1/4-20 to 3/8-16 tpi, on the opposite end, to give more of a substantial attachment of the handle assembly to the subbase.
Here a 3/8-16 tpi. bolt is used to check for fit.
Ok now that the handle top and shaft is all drilled and tapped, and ready for final assembly, I still want to make a long taper on the shaft of each handle rod, to make for a more comfortable grip, as well as asthetics too.
This taper will go from the bottom to the handle top, increaqsing in elevation, However, I want a good support base at the bottom of the handle rod, so I will begin the taper up above the very bottom, so I first mark it off like this.
Now I can machine a groove to required depth, to where the taper will start at the small end.
After determining the depth of cut in, and the length of the taper, a quick trig, calculation, shows the arctangent of 0.25, which is around 14 deg.
Now I could again set my lathe compound slide to this angle, however because my workpiece is very small, and I have a very small area of grip in the chuck jaws, I need to use my tailstock to hold this workpiece, or else it will have great deflection, and ruin the work, so the only way I can use my tailstock and still cut a long taper, is to use my shop built tapering jig.
So here I have it set up as it takes the place of the entire cross slide on my lathe, and it is very easy to set up any angle I need, by using my protractor in combination with a ruler.
This setup is close to the 14 deg. taper angle I need.
With everything locked down I can start cutting away the taper.
And a look at the before taper and after taper, with the two workpieces.
Now I can place the workpieces back in the lathe to rough cut them to length.
And after facing them to final finish lengths, I have the tops dry assembled to each shaft, to check for fit.
And a quick look at where abouts they will probably fo on the subase assembly, on the mortise jig itself.
That’s all for today.
Have fun in the shop.