portable handheld mortising jig "build blog" #10: couple more hours this evening, building mortise depth stop block and starting the handles.

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Blog entry by hobby1 posted 11-07-2013 03:47 AM 1187 reads 0 times favorited 2 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 9: few hours this week, making the mortise length stop blocks. Part 10 of portable handheld mortising jig "build blog" series Part 11: making the handles complete with tapers, using my tapering jig. »

couple hours yesterday evening, allowed me to start working on making the adjustable ‘mortise depth’ stop,
It is machined with a small flange to ride in the groove at the bottom of the subbase, when I have it set where I want it, for depth of cut, I tighten it with a screw that comes through the slot in the subbase. However I don’t want to thread the stop block itself, seeing it is a very thin piece of aluminum stock left over after machining it to final thickness, to fit under the dovetail block, so I decided it would be best to machine a shallow slot to glue a nut into, so the screw get tighten into a steel nut, to tighten the stop block.

now to drill for a clearance hole for the screw to come through the block.
first step line up the center of the nut with the spindle center line

and drill through

now the block is ready for the nut to be glued into it

and how it works with the subbase

This evening I got a couple more hours in machining.

now its time to start workiing on some handles for the jig.
these are aluminum round bar pieces after they were machined to final length
they will become the handle tops..

they will be threaded onto a tapered shaft to complete the handle, so I first need to thread each handle top, so they can be fitted onto there own tapered shaft.

here are two pieces of 1” dia. steel round bar pieces, rough cut, with a hacksaw to around 2” in length.
these will later become the tapered shafts to complete each handle.

after machining to final length on my lathe.

I need to drill all the way through each shaft bar, and tap a 1/4-20 TPI at each end to recieve bolts at a later time.

thats all for tonight, next I’ll temporarily screw on a handle top blank, to one of these shafts, then machine the handle top to a comfortable profile, once that is done to both of them, I wilol then unscrew them from there shafts, and set up my tapering jig for my lathe, and do some long tapering on each shaft, to give it a nice tapered profile, and then I can permanently screw each handle top to each tapered shaft to complete each handle.

Then the other side of the handle shaft will have a threaded shaft permantently affixed to it, so it can then be screwed into the side of the subbase, to complete the handle assembly.

Have fun in the shop.

2 comments so far

View stefang's profile


15881 posts in 3386 days

#1 posted 11-07-2013 09:03 AM

This should be a rock solid tool when finished. Gluing in the nut for the stop reminds me of how surprised I was to learn that super glue was originally formulated to glue metal to metal. At least that is what I read in an article about a new super glue formulated for wood.

Just a thought, but I am wondering if your mortiser could be made from hardwood, maple or birch for example, based on the design of this one. I was just thinking that others who don’t have your machining skills or equipment might like to have one too. I’m not thinking of myself as I have a mortising attachment for my combo machine and also a biscuit jointer.

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

View hobby1's profile


336 posts in 2350 days

#2 posted 11-07-2013 01:28 PM

Hi Mike

I have found this superglue from “hobbylobby”, to work real good to glue metal, I use it alot, especially when I make wood jigs to hold metal parts to, for machining.

I’m sure this jig could be made from a hardwood, if I made it from wood, I would eliminate the dove tail slides, and make them tounge and groove slides instead, to allow for wood movement, other than that, it could all be done with hardwoods.

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