build log, a shop made rustic version of a " fine furniture coffee table" #7: cont. day 4's preparing the top for shaping

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Blog entry by hobby1 posted 07-17-2013 02:09 AM 1532 reads 0 times favorited 1 comment Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 6: a couple pics starting working on the top today Part 7 of build log, a shop made rustic version of a " fine furniture coffee table" series Part 8: day 5's progress initial contouring the table top edges. »

This evening I was able to get started on thickening up the perimeter of the top.

I resawed on my table saw the last bit of 2×4 lumber, and I needed a little more material to fill in the ends, I was able to use up some more scrap pine board shelves, I put them on both sides of a 2×4 block on the ends, to give a variance in coloration at the ends of the top.

then I marked where the table frame will go on the bottom side of the top, so I know where to cut the pieces as well as putting in the brad nails..

then I glued and brad nailed in these blocks as well as the side rails on the bottom side of the top.

That uses up every bit of the four 2×4’s I purchased, and I made away to use up some more scrap lumber as well (the pine board shelves), so now the next process will be to scroll out (with a jig saw), some sort of freeform around the entire perimeter, of the top, then using my sanding drums and grinder, try to get a rustic natural edge on this top.

Have fun in the shop…


heres a quick fix for my table saw, blade guard, my table saw is a craftsman 10” handyman type saw, it came with a blade gaurd, that requires a wing type screw to install it on the saw, after awhile of taking the gaurd off and on so many times, the screw begins to get difficult to twist, I sometimes need to use pliers, so I made a one piece screw and knob out of 12L14 steel, wich makes it easier to grab and loosen and tighten.

the gaurd bracket was very well designed for easy removal and placement, however the middle slot was completely close so you had to take the wing screw completely off every time you wanted to remove or install the guard, so while I was at it, I opened up the middle hole slot, so it can be removed without entire removal of the knobscrew.

Now it is a very convenient to remove or put on the gaurd as the ocasion arises.

have a nice day…

1 comment so far

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16209 posts in 3569 days

#1 posted 07-17-2013 08:58 AM

Now the top thickness looks about right. I’m glad to see someone experimenting with fir wood. It does have a lot of drawbacks, especially with those hard and numerous knots and very soft summer wood, but I think it’s a fun challenge to make something with it. I am wondering where this work will lead you as a woodworker. This is a great way to learn a lot without spending a lot.

I have been making a lot of wall holders from construction fir the past couple of days for all my chisels, carving tools, screw drivers etc. It’s horrible stuff to drill with all the breakout on the bottom, even with a panel under it on the drill press, but it’s cheap and it looks ok and most importantly it does the job. I’ve had good luck hand planing it too, except for the large brick hard knots which I’ve been able to eliminate. I’ve been resawing 2X4s in the my bandsaw to get the materials I need. Almost free since they were short cutoffs from another project. One thing nice about it compared to pine is that you don’t get all the sap on your tools.

I made two sofa frames from fir for my son’s room when he was 15 and he still had them in his basement room at his house up until about 5 years ago when he was 40 and with 3 kids of his own. I put those frames together with dowels and they stayed rock solid even after being moved a few times during those 25 years!

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

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