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Making of a 30" wolf head #1: Part 2

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Blog entry by grosa posted 01-31-2015 11:11 PM 960 reads 0 times favorited 0 comments Add to Favorites Watch
no previous part Part 1 of Making of a 30" wolf head series Part 2: Part 3 »

Hello again.
If you watched the video on the inverted pin router you get the idea on how it works http://lumberjocks.com/grosa/blog/46433.
We have 2 pin routers at the shop, one is mine and the other belongs to the company. They are both model 36210 routers. The model 36210 has a 3 phz 10 hp motor with a 36” capacity from arm base to the pin. The collet sizes this machine will accept are: 1/4”, 3/8”, 1/2”, 5/8” and 3/4”. One of the router tables has an extension on either side of the machine for long work, this is very helpful. When you press the left side of the pedal the pin will come down and the bit will come up. When you press the pedal on the right the pin will go up and the bit will go down. Pictures 1-6 That’s how that all works.
When attaching your material to your cutting template make sure your material is FACE UP. Keep in mind this is an INVERTED pin router. You can nail, screw, or double stick tape you cutting template to your material because you’re attaching it to the outside scrap of your design. In this case I just screwed the MDF to the bottom of the cutting template making sure the screws are countersunk in. Then I adjust my pin depth to travel in the cutting template groove and I adjust the height of the bit so I am about 1/16” over my material for a clean cut. Pictures 7 & 8
Now I turn on the machine, align the pin to the groove in the corner because you get a cleaner start and finish, press the pedal on the left and the pin comes down and I just push it along the grove until I come to where I started, press the pedal on the right and the pin comes up. Thats my first cut Picture 9 & 10 Move it to the next hole and so on Pictures 11- 15. When I finish all my inside cuts then I do my perimeter cut. When doing a perimeter cut you need to start in an area that is easy to get to with a sander. I look for a flat or outside radius line to start. I mark two lines 1/16” apart. When cutting inside cuts you need to cut to the left, when doing outside cuts you need to cut to the right because of the rotation of the cutter. The reason for the two lines is you plunge. the cutter on the right line and move to the right. Go all the way around until you come to the line on the left leaving a little nub that you don not cut, then just snap it off and sand the nub down flat so it goes away.. The reason for this is it holds your design away from the cutter so you don’t end up with a half moon cut in your design because the cutter will pull in your design from the rotation of the cutter.
When I finish cutting , it’s time to sand the part to get rid of the fuz Picture 16.
In picture 17 I am pointing to the edge of the sand paper. Sand paper edges and fretwork do not like each other. To avoid damaging the edges of the fretwork I use a pad on my sander that I cut 1/4” off the diameter of the pad so I can fold up the edges to sand stuff like this, it works great. When I sand the design I turn the whole thing over, leave it inside the scrap. This helps to prevent tipping the sander on the edges. I sand both sides with 120 grit. Now it’s ready for primer. That will be for next week. Before I go the last few pictures show a close up of the cut the pin router made.

-- Have a great day.



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