Initial Shop Plan #1: Planning the new shop

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Blog entry by gmaffPappy posted 11-11-2012 07:56 PM 4594 reads 0 times favorited 10 comments Add to Favorites Watch
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So, I’ve been given the thumbs up by the Power That Is My Wife to buy the much desired table saw and to finally build a shop around it.

So, here’s the design. Any input is welcome.

I want to build two sliding barn doors that will separate the shop from the rest of the garage, but can be opened up if I need more space.

I also want to raise the floor 6”+ so I can put dust collection ducts beneath.

I;ve designed a ramp built at the end of the floor against the garage door. If I finish all sides of the ramp, I’ll be able to have it in place as finished floor in the workshop. I’ll then be able to pull it out and flip it over so I can easily roll things up the ramp and into the shop.
3 RJ45 CAT6 ports that route back to the center RJ45 panel. That is where the incoming CAT6 line comes into the garage from the house’s router. There are also 6 110v double outlets and 4 single 220v outlets.

The Empty pics are as the garage is now. All the wiring is done.

Garage Empty 1:

Garage Empty 2:

Garage With Floor and TS 1:

Garage With Floor and TS 2:

-- If it's easy to do, you haven't spent enough time over engineering it.

10 comments so far

View redryder's profile


2393 posts in 3151 days

#1 posted 11-11-2012 10:01 PM

I assume that’s your wife in the diagrams. She looks nice and must be a keeper.

Seems like a lot of time, energy and money to put dust collection in the floor. I put my pipes in the ceiling. Fairly easy to do, out a site and works well. Is the next person who wants to buy your home going to want that configuration of a garage??

Good luck…......................

-- mike...............

View Chris Moellering's profile

Chris Moellering

227 posts in 2698 days

#2 posted 11-11-2012 10:19 PM

I agree, the raised floor seems like a lot of resources (money, time & lumber). Also creates a step if you have some reason to need 12” more space in ripping down a sheet of plywood or whatever….

That being said, I’m renting, so I can’t do much anything to my corner of the garage.

-- Grace & peace, Chris+

View ~Julie~'s profile


607 posts in 3084 days

#3 posted 11-11-2012 10:42 PM

I’m with the other two about the raised floor. Also, it’s not a large space as it is, and you will be losing some floor space for the angled down part which you say you will flip, therefore you can’t use it to put anything on. I’m guessing though that your mind is set on doing the floor that way (“over engineered”) so enjoy your new space. I have a great shop and just love it!

-- ~Julie~

View gmaffPappy's profile


13 posts in 2080 days

#4 posted 11-12-2012 12:29 AM

Yes, there’s that damned floor. I hear you on that. I’m not looking forward to the cost or the effort, but I just finished raising my office and it’s bathroom floor the same way. It is a pain, but allows for a lot of wiring/ducting to be done out of site.

I haven’t even thought about routing through the ceiling….and I should have. Over the main garage is my master bedroom, but there’s a little peaked roof w/ an attic above the 3rd car. That’s a great idea.

The main reason I want to raise the floor, if I do it, is to get me off the slab. That’s why I did it to the office and bath. I live in IN , and that slab gets really cold in the winter. I insulated the sub-floor in the office, and I was thinking about doing the same. Before my office was complete, I the 3rd car garage was my office. I don’t like cold toes :-)

But, I’ll put consideration into routing the DC through the attic. That would drastically cut down on the height of the raised floor and thus its cost.

Thanks for the input. All is Welcome!

-- If it's easy to do, you haven't spent enough time over engineering it.

View ~Julie~'s profile


607 posts in 3084 days

#5 posted 11-12-2012 12:56 AM

Well, I’m spoiled as I have in-floor heating, maybe some type of heat mats you can lay on top of your slab would work?

-- ~Julie~

View gmaffPappy's profile


13 posts in 2080 days

#6 posted 11-19-2012 01:12 AM

I’ve reconsidered the whole raised floor and decided that routing the DC up and into the ceiling will save me so much $ that I can buy a lifetime’s worth of nice, soft, comfy and warm shoes to wear in the shop. Plus, it lets me start working on fun wood projects instead of spending a ton of time building a complete sub. Now I can focus on building feed tables, work bench, and cabinets for the shop.

I just got my TS. Once it’s together, I’ll know the real space I have available.

I missed something in my initial power description, due to forgetfulness. I built the house with a Main consisting of 4 2800amp 22KAIC breakers. The garage is not wired with 4, 220v, 20amp outlets. It’s wired with 4, 220v, 40amp outlets. I’d forgotten that I wanted to run two machines per plug with an extension/splitter. I didn’t remember until I actually looked in the box and saw the breakers died together. That raises interesting machine layout possibilities.

I’ll keep you posted on my designs.

-- If it's easy to do, you haven't spent enough time over engineering it.

View gmaffPappy's profile


13 posts in 2080 days

#7 posted 11-25-2012 03:20 PM

I think I fell into the same trap a lot of beginning woodworkers fall prey to.

New Tools! Must Use! No need for knowledge! Big desire for Product!

Time to stop, do a ton of reading, and plan/build a workbench or two. Only then will I have the basic setup and established beginning skills to build the Barn Doors for the garage to separate my workshop from the rest. Then I’ll work on building some cabinets to hang over my workbenches.

Correct me if I’m wrong, but I think that will be a good starting point on the road to building the French Doors and furniture I envision.

But, I do really want to cut things with my new SawStop :-)

Need Wood! – Must Cut! – Grunt! – Grunt!

-- If it's easy to do, you haven't spent enough time over engineering it.

View JesseTutt's profile


854 posts in 2160 days

#8 posted 11-25-2012 03:29 PM

One advantage to a raised wood floor is that standing on wood is better for the feet than standing on concrete. My shop has both and after several hours of working I can definitely tell which side I have been working on.

I would pull 10-3 wire to all outlets and they you can later make a change at the outlet and panel to convert an outlet between 120 and 220 volts. The 10 gauge will guarantee that you will have sufficient wire to handle whatever current draw (amps) you will need in the future.

-- Jesse, Saint Louis, Missouri

View gmaffPappy's profile


13 posts in 2080 days

#9 posted 12-08-2012 07:01 PM

The raised floor is gone. I guess I’ll just have to wear warm shoes :-(

The ceilings are over 9’. There’s plenty of room to hang the duct work from the ceiling.

With that decision out of the way, I can move on to building things. Originally, I wanted to build Barn Doors to separate the shop from the rest of the garage.

That’s still the plan, but first I need a workbench to use in building everything, including the doors. I want to put a work bench between the dust collector and the TS. It will double as an in-feed table.

Designing the workbench got as far as the top and the dimensions. As I model the things I want to build, I start my list of components and how I plan to build each. Hopefully, this will result in component list, cut list, build instructions, and stock list. Now I realize there’s another list, the Tool/Jig List. I’ll need a set of clamps for gluing the table’s top.

I shopped online for clamps and thought I should just make some. It won’t save me much (if any) money, but will give me good tasks for building my ability. And I think the panel clamps will be very useful in future builds, including the Barn Doors, and French Doors my office.

There’s probably a design for this type of jig/tool, but I haven’t even bothered to look. The idea came to me, so I just ran with it. I believe part of the process of building my skill/confidence in woodworking is imagining, designing, cutting, and building, not just getting some plans and following instructions. With that in mind, if I’m totally nuts, throwing away effort, money, and/or just plain impractical (like with the raised floor) let me know. Like everything I do, this is probably, totally over-engineered.

Any useful input is greatly appreciated. You guys/gals are the only people I know with experience I can leverage.


-- If it's easy to do, you haven't spent enough time over engineering it.

View Bahremu's profile


21 posts in 3451 days

#10 posted 12-10-2012 03:56 PM

Since you canned the raised floor for running the dust collection, but (i feel) you might still want some thermal break from the icy cold concrete slab, why not a thin floating plywood floor over dimpled foundation wrap?

When i installed a floating floor over concrete in my basement, i placed a layer of dimpled foundation wrap down, then the thin foam for laminate floors and the flooring. I noticed a significant improvement in the temperature of the finished floor over the bare concrete.

The wrap is about 5/16” thick, and the manufaturer recommends 1/2” or thicker flooring added above it. The wrap generally comes in 6’ by 65’ rolls (390sq ft) for about 100$ here. Add in enough T&G plywood or OSB to cover, and the cheepest thinest laminate foam underlay you can find. Varnish it if you choose to. Basically DIY DriCore.

I’d rather not leaving it floating though. Even though the plywood and equipment weight enough to keep it from shifting, I’d still tapcon the whole thing in place.
The wrap is stong enough you could probably floor the entire garage and park the cars on it too.

Delta-MS is avaiable in my area. I sure you can find similar where you are.

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