Fitting the doors
The doors are held on with a piece of metal trim that protrudes from the sub door of the fridge.
I decided to use a method where a 1/4” backer board is inserted into the trim and then my doors are screwed into place from the back.
I soon realized it is much easier to fit my doors when the fridge doors have been removed and are laying flat.
In the above picture I had already fit the freezer door. I did not take photos of this but you will see the entire process on the upper doors.
I reattached the door to the fridge box.
You can see a center line in the above picture. I sized the freezer door with the desired side reveal of a 1/4.
Aligning the beadboard
My goal was to align the beadboard of the upper doors to the freezer door. When I built the upper doors I made them roughly half the size of the lower door. Each door contains a full piece of beadboard that I could reference to the center line of the freezer door.
Here are both untrimmed fridge doors resting on the installed freezer door. The centers and horizontals are perfectly aligned, but the edges are too wide on the uppers.
I marked the overhang.
Then I trimmed the edge.
I had earlier built a prototype door (basic frame cut to exact size).
Based on the new reference edge of the outside, I came back and trimmed the interior edges for the size of the prototype.
Installing backer panel
I cut 1/4” baltic birch to the specified size.
I then persuaded the panel into place.
Note: Unsafe stool standing.
Rabbeting the doors
The doors are rabbeted to create a 1/8” relief. This allows them to recess into the panel. I set up a single flat bottom blade and carefully nibbled the distances.
Rabbeted doors. Rabbet on top, bottom and right edge.
Then I held the pieces on temporarily with clamps…
... to check the reveal…
I fancy up the backer board and start finishing. Plus making stainless steel trim go bye bye.
-- -John "Do I have to keep typing a smiley? Just assume it's a joke." www.flickr.com/photos/gizmodyne