Which Wax?
I bought a new kind of wax by Howards based on a recommendation from a friend. It is called Walnut. I compared it to the Briwax (Dark Brown) which I have have used previously. The Briwax is much darker. The Howards smells like citrus and claims to provide u.v. protection. It does seem a little more gritty, but applies smoothly.
Here is a shot with one base assembly (right) finished with the wax. The other is not (left)
Booooooooooring.
After finishing the base and the underside of the top, I turned my attention to the top of the top.
I began with two coats of de-waxed shellac (Zinser Seal-Coat)
Here you can see the raw wood vs. sealed.
Watch a really boring video of me shellacing. Witness my careful maneuvers with the shellac pad. Warning: slow action.
Sapwood!
There were two prominent sapwood streaks to deal with. 
When you fume with ammonia the sapwood is not affected. I ordered a different dye from Tools for Woodworking
It is relatively close to Actual Fumed oak, though it could use a little brown. I bought a couple of other colors but have not mixed them yet. Any who. Here is the sapwood with a little dye. It is not possible to totally disguise it. I just wanted to reduce the contrast. If you add too dark a dye it will bleed into the surrounding areas. One way to deal with this is to tint all of the shellac so that the entire piece has the dye’s tone. I was not willing to alter the color of the entire table. I add the dye to a little shellac and then paint it on the sapwood. I carefully wipe the borders.
Top Coast
I used my stash of Minwax Wipe-On Poly for the top coat. It is a satin but still fairly Glossy. Also, you can’t get it anymore in Los Angeles County due to VOC regulations. It is easy to apply and looks nice with added protection.
After three coats of the poly I rubbed the top with steel wood and then a cloth. Finally the Walnut wax which tones down the poly and adds more brown to the top.
Inspector
We have been debating the sheen of the piece. Here is the boss inspecting the table.
Next time
Project post once I get someone to help me haul it to the dining room.
-- -John "Do I have to keep typing a smiley? Just assume it's a joke." www.flickr.com/photos/gizmodyne
13 comments so far
Todd A. Clippinger
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5645 posts in 995 days
posted 493 days ago
Giz,
You do such great work.
I hope to be able to meet you and the inspector one day and to see your projects in person.
-- Todd A. Clippinger, Montana, http://amcraftsman.com
GarageWoodworks
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209 posts in 518 days
posted 493 days ago
Looking good! Nice job blending in the sapwood. I recently posted a forum topic on “Dealing with Sapwood”. Cherry always gets me! The sapwood will show up after the patina develops in cherry.
You dealt with it nicely! Well done.
-- Brian http://www.garagewoodworks.com
jeanmarc
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1751 posts in 611 days
posted 492 days ago
Nice job
-- jeanmarc manosque france
FritzM
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106 posts in 708 days
posted 492 days ago
you’re like a shellacing robot! The precision paid off, nicely done.
-- Fritz Oakland, Ca http://www.muegenburg.com (dedicated to my other hobby)
daltons
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5 posts in 513 days
posted 492 days ago
Great work. The careful decision and application of finishes really pay off. In restoring original finishes we NEVER use Briwax. This is really powerful stuff and I believe can be used as a stand alone finish on raw wood. It has something in it that will actually strip original shellac off. We use “American Paste Wax” and I like their product that has a touch of color in it, light oak. This keeps the wax from blushing. Good stuff.
-- www.daltons.com
David
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1982 posts in 1034 days
posted 492 days ago
Giz -
I have been following this project with interest. Excellent work! I enjoyed the shellacing video . . . I guess woodworkers really are boring! Looks like you passed the finish inspection. What is next in your shop?
I believe the “really powerful stuff” in Briwax is toluene.
Briwax MSDS
David
The Folding Rule
-- http://foldingrule.blogspot.com
gizmodyne
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1678 posts in 985 days
posted 492 days ago
Todd: Anytime you come to California.
Daltons: Good info on Briwax. Scary!
David: Back to finish the kitchen cabinet doors and pullouts.
I will post project tomorrow after I get some better light.
-- -John "Do I have to keep typing a smiley? Just assume it's a joke." www.flickr.com/photos/gizmodyne
Dorje
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1767 posts in 892 days
posted 489 days ago
Nice finishing moves…
-- Dorje (pronounced "door-jay"), Seattle, WA
steveosshop
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208 posts in 521 days
posted 486 days ago
Thats a great piece. Thanx for the videos. Glad to see the boss approved!
-- Steve-o
drgoodwood
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382 posts in 1023 days
posted 486 days ago
Hi gizmodyne:
BRIWAX is nasty stuff. The toluene fumes are overpowering.
I blend my own finishing waxes with:
90% Bees Wax, by weight
10% Carnauba Wax, by weight
Solvent Blend (Citrus Solvent and Low-Odor Mineral Spirits)
If I want color, I add a little Aniline Tincture of the desired color.
I melt and mix the ingredients outdoors on an electric hot plate.
-- Randy, Rustic Artisan, a family tradition. (No PM's - auto-deleted.) - "I am a seeker, not a follower."
tbone
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46 posts in 580 days
posted 485 days ago
I love your table project, and I really enjoy the step-by-step reports. However I do have a suggestion
that may help you out on your next one. Lose the Radiohead and put on something more contemporary—maybe Old 97’s, or Reckless Kelly. I would suggest Merle, but you would have to work without a hat and with your right hand over your heart!
-- Go STARS!
gizmodyne
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1678 posts in 985 days
posted 485 days ago
Thanks tbone. Suggestion duly noted.
-- -John "Do I have to keep typing a smiley? Just assume it's a joke." www.flickr.com/photos/gizmodyne
Huckleberry
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139 posts in 748 days
posted 474 days ago
Nice table and enjoyed your videos.
-- Something that goes unnoticed will never be remembered.